Good to know. Thanks.
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Interesting to see it keeps getting revised. Another thing I notice is that the GPS gives very different numbers based upon what reel you use, even using reels from the same manufacturer and size - i.e. various Shimano 2500 models call for different layouts. The GOOD thing, when it comes to ordering guides, is that it appears to me that I will probably need 20-12-5.5 then running guides. The d
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Jim, I'm pleased you replied - you seem to be the guru on this stuff. So a 16 is big enough for 10lb mono? When I use the GPS software on the Anglers Resource site, calculating for a 2500 series Shimano (I'll be using a Symetre), I came out with a KL-H 20, but I'll go back and run it again. I have several rods built to use braid that use a BYAG 16, so I'm not worried about the braid, but would
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One - what tip do folks typically use with size 4 running guides on a light spinning build? Two - what size KL-H stripper do you need if you are using 10lb mono?
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Is there a reason to use the KT guides as opposed to the older L style guides? The Ls look SLIGHTLY lighter in weight to me.
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Can somebody tell me what diameter the grip needs to be where it slides up under the swell on an Aero reel seat? I would be curious about both the 16 and 17 size seats.
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Just looked at the HS981 in your catalogue. Looks nice. I'll look them both over.
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Thanks for the reply Bob. I have the Batson RX8 802.75, which I suspect would be pretty close to the SB812. I am looking for something a bit longer, but still fast, for throwing the light jigs from the shore of the inlet, so probably the HM-P903 will be the ticket.
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Of all the MHX blanks, which is the fastest? Especially in the HM line?
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I have used regular size 16 seats and the diameter is small for my hands. Does the size 16 Aero fill the average sized hand?
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Thinking about using one or the other for a HM-P908-MHX. Any thoughts?
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This has probably already been covered a bunch, but what does the AmTac Microwave setup gain me over NGC? The principle seems very similar. To add to the question, is there more of an advantage for mono than for braid?
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The HM model sounds very, very nice. That is interesting to know that in addition to being lighter it is also faster. I notice the casting weight range is lower on the HS9000, but should I expect that I can actually cast lighter weight with the P903 given that it has the lighter tip? It looks like I can't go wrong with either.
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So when you say very different, I take it that means in terms of weight and responsiveness, given. that the speed and power is the same. To be fair, most of my rods are standard and mid-mod, but the last two I built were on the Batson RX8 blanks and they are just outstanding. If Batson made a the HS9000 in the RX8, I wouldn't think about it twice. I can't find anybody making the HS9000 in high
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Could somebody compare the HM-P903-MHX to the HS9000-MHX? I know one is higher modulus. What I'm really looking for is a comparison of the actions.
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Light bait and small fish. A shorter spinning rod is more comfortable for a day of fishing with lots of casting; and the smaller rod makes the fish more fun. In other words, the amount of casting will be like a bass fisherman working a shoreline, except in the other direction.
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I don't care if it is called hot shot, popping, spin jig or anything else - what is the highest end version of this blank? I am thinking about something to throw Berkley Gulp a long way from shore.
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I know this is off topic, but it is my first time loading baitcasting reels with braid. My questions are - 1) Do I need to stay with 8lb diameter (30lb braid) to keep the line from digging into itself on the spool? Or will 20/6 work okay? 2) For baitcasters is there a preference for the stiffer fused lines over the true braids or does it not matter? Any advice on number of strands, fused vs.
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Tom, I hoped you would chime in. I'll pay attention to the line stacking, but my greater concern is the following: 1 - Do you think there will be a problem with lateral guide stress? 2 - Do you think it will create a stress distribution problem for the blank?
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Blank is XSB802.75, no forgrip, so don't need to keep line up off butt of blank. Guides would be all sf - 6, 5, rest 4s. Will it create problems to simply offset the butt guide and next guide up just enough to skim the line by the blank?
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On a spiral wrap, or a spinning rod for that matter, is there ever a need to have guides closer than 4" apart? I'm willing to do it if I need to, but I also see no reason to add unneeded weight.
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Sorry, I didn't understand that part.
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I like any slow curing epoxy for 2 reasons - 1, it lubricates the blank so you can slide the EVA in place; and 2, slow cure gives me time to clean it back off the blank with alcohol. I'm seldom in that big a hurry. I have used the 5min stuff, but like the above post says, you have to be somewhat quick.
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What Loomis blank would be closest to the LSJ781 in terms of action, power and suited purpose? I'm asking because not much out there seems to be directly comparable to the XMG blanks.
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You really want to read the article on New Guide Concept which is located in the Library. It answers every one of your questions pretty specifically.
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The UL are definitely harder to build, at least for me. I would suggest also looking at using Permagloss for finish on really light rods.
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Following Wayne's advice. Go to basspro.com. Click on Outdoor Site Library Click on fishing Click on terminology - low on the page on the right. Thanks again Wayne.
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Does anybody know of a good concise glossary of fishing technique definitions, along with the type of tackle typically used for each - flipping, jigging, pitching, finesses, etc.?
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The specs on these two RX8 blanks look almost identical. Same blank or is there a difference? I notice the walleye blank is cheaper.
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I'm thinking mostly bass and popping blanks.
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