Is that on the Talon website Derek? I know Talon is known for making surf blanks ideal for Westcoast or long distance with light casting weights.
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Anglers Workshop has a 11’6” 1-3 oz surf blank in their private label line made in the USA by Talon. Casting 4 oz might be pushing it though.
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I am communicating with Alex of NFC about my X Ray blank issue.
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First nothing wrong about asking fishing questions on here and starting with the rod. They’re using long rods to be able to cast to or over the 2nd sandbar to catch the pompano and others that hold there most of the time.The reels look big because they have to hold at least 200 yards of line and it helps to have quicker line pickup. Now the whiting and sometimes others than be caught easily with
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Rod Siemens Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > David Miller Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Another US manufacturer is United Composites. > > Anyone have experience with their DHX blanks? They made the same as the Graphite USA aka GUSA dual helix rods with same model #s maybe with improved mat
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I really like the Hitena thread and the fly/ jig head boxes are very nice for the $. I will have to try their finish.
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Another US manufacturer is United Composites.
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Just found out that Cousins went out of business in the fall of last year. I hope I was wrong that they made the Liberty and Hydra blanks! I hate seeing businesses shut their doors that make a quality USA made product.
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Get Bit Outdoors Liberty line of blanks are made in the USA and very high quality. Hydra NG are USA made too. Both I am pretty sure is made by Cousins Tackle to their specifications.
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With my blank 1/2 inch short makes me wonder if it was trimmed too much on both ends because the measurements are both off. With a low modulus carbon or fiberglass blank it wouldn’t be much issue but being high modulus I think it would change the power, action and casting weight considerably. Most blanks I have built the tip sizing has been spot on and butt measurements very close.
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Weird Norm, Mine has is but it looks adhered but my blank sure wasn’t trimmed off nice and straight. Looks like your blank wasn’t a clean cut too. Another thing is I tried to slip on a 4.5 tube tip top and it wouldn’t go at all even when rodhouse.fr has the specs for the 732 as 4.2 with a verified 4.5 tip top. Looks like mine is 5.0.
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Depends on the blank, if it light weight low power and you want to make the build as light as possible move the guide closer to the ferrule. A heavier more powerful rod I would just leave the 1/2 inch gap. Casting performance is more important than aesthetics in my opinion. Another thought is to move the guide further away slightly , in some spinning guide setups it helps to smooth the line flow.
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So I took my SJ 732 blank and measured it. Butt diameter 17/32 inch with a blue sticker with 882 on it 5.0 tip Weight 1.98 oz Length is 1/2 inch short of 7’3”, are yours shorter as well David and Norm? I would CCS measure it but I first need to deal with the blem issue with North Fork tomorrow.
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David, Did you weight your blank before and after sanding it? Just curious.
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I too highly doubt sanding off the excess resin would make a rod softer unless somebody got a little too happy with the sanding. Sanding for the manufacturer is certainly more time and labor, probably more blem blanks and maybe slightly less durability so that might be why they chose not to do so.
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I meant their Legend Glass that Roger is wanting to buy.
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I was pointing out that Tackle Tour’s # was with RDA and like you I much prefer CCS. As to price one can buy an X Ray right now for $110 then $19 for flat rate shipping which is cheaper than Point Blank. My guess is high mod blanks are priced much higher not only because of material cost but also the manufacturer knows there will be more warranty claims to cover. Then if it is made in the USA
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Aren’t the St Croix crankbait rod blanks made of all glass and the Rod Geeks glass/carbon composites? Maybe Rod Geeks can order them if the demand is there.
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Rodhouse has SJ 736 at 2.2 oz .57 butt and MB 736 2.3 oz .58 so not a huge difference between the two.
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I just saw online that Tackle Tour did a comparison of the X Ray MB 736 vs a MHX of the same length and rating. It was 547g but in RDA which is higher than the listed specs of the PB 73mxf. Blank weight from them and rodhouse.fr is 2.3 oz for the MB 736. I really like all of the deflection comparison pics at roadhouse.fr , hopefully they will do the same with the x rays. Mudhole could sell som
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I was joking around about the break strength test. The ???? was a smiley face yomogi. It is fun Friday. Looking forward to your review of the X Ray when you fish with it. I was going to start my build once my carbon fiber grips arrive but it looks like it will get pushed back after this blank issue is handled. I understand mishaps happen and still plan on buying from North Fork Composites in t
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Where is the dead lift till breakage test Norm? ???? I agree with you manufacture ratings are all over the place due to subjectivity and intended use ie inshore vs bass. Could the X Ray blank due to it’s design have more material weight right near the butt than the PB which is canceled out strength wise using CCS measuring as it is below the 10% of the blank? It also seems faster
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I was about to CCS measure my X Ray SJ 732 , took a good look over and noticed some flaws near the tip that made my heart sink. Looks like some scrapes going from the tip to 3 inch down. If it was near the butt I wouldn’t worry about it. I am certainly not a complainer but it looks like I need to contact North Fork Composite. The Delta blank that I ordered with it looks fine.
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I will have to try the new tensioner with Teflon washers
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There is a fine line. Moderation is key.
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I do the sanding outside on my rod wrapping lathe then blow it clean with the air compressor before bringing it back inside. As for the best lathe for the $ the Alps has the best headstock but I like the thread tensioner that puts pressure on the spool not the thread like my Pac Bay. The new CRB headstock upgrade from Mudhole looks promising.
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Put the rod in a rod holder at an angle so you can grab the tip to pull down.Another option is to brace 12” of the butt on a shelf near eye level with the rod horizontal but at that point I would just do a Common Cents measurement to find the action and power to know for sure. Both ways would be much easier and safer than using a ladder.
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This is from an email announcement from Rod Geeks, maybe with enough demand they can offer some SC3s. “Let us know if there are some models we should add to our lineup, SC1 - SC5. We have been basing all of our product development on customer input for 5 years and we will continue to do so. “
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Hate to see great USA made rod blanks being taken off the market. If all decide to sell direct their blanks or only sell completed rods that is not good for the rod building supply businesses. They have to make ends meet so my guess is components and supplies will go up in price.
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10mm is the O.D. of the ceramic insert.
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