Parabolic blanks bend throughout their entire length instead of "shutting off" at some point down from the tip.
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I do exactly as Phil does only just the opposite. lol Opposite being I only build spin or cast rods. Never liked the spools between myself and the blank. My wraps are pretty simple except for JTOB's and similar. Hobby for me, so speed not an issue.
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David, I'd (we'd) like to hear what you think about the Point Blanks after you check them out
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I apologize. I missed Roger's Wikipedia link above and posted it myself. Careful with lighters, they can produce a bit of soot at times. I do as Ray does above.
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I always liked D-2, but would prefer it a bit thinner. I've been getting nice results with Threadmaster Lite and it sets up pretty quickly after application.. Can't wait to try Flex- Coat Lite, but I don't build enough to have a bunch of different finishes on hand. I totally agree about LS Supreme.
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The above mentioned 691MLXF Point Blank is a peach.
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Once we've amassed all the above info. we'll know what a blank's gonna "feel" like before we order it.
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Now that Tom said that, I can't believe it either. I always mix in the bottom of a partially crushed (vertically) soda can and clean it to get rid of dirt and the code #s.
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I would clean anything I was about to mix finish in with DNA before using.
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I believe the proper terminology for rods other than fly is "butt guide". Glad we got that rectified. It was bothering me also to some small extent.
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Jesse, what setup did you decide to use for your trout rod?
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I would start with a KW10, KW 6, Then whatever runners are sufficient in size to pass any leader knots you may use. No need to step down in sizes. I am not familiar with this particular type of rod, but it sounds pretty fundamental to me. Wait for more opinions.
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I just built a 4pc. ultra light spinner with a Rod Geeks blank. Was very happy with it.
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Read the post 9 down from yours.
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I would stay away from Microwaves for this build.
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Fuji is the yardstick by which all others are judged. (should've said meterstick)
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Roger, sometimes nylon thread without CP provides some very desirable results. If you haven't already, do some test wraps that way and finish them. Wetting the thread with alcohol will show how much the color will change, but it doesn't mimic the translucence you get with finish.
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How far is "far enough"?
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Didn't mean to prod you John, I respect your opinion. I have no problem with Flex-coat when I use CP. My real intent was to draw your attention to the original post.
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Thank you David, Norman, and Tom.
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Try Schneider's Rod Shop. After all he is a sponsor.
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Maybe John Cates will chime in here.
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Copy that.
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Should be no problem. I would let the first cure a few days before applying second. There may be scuffing required if you allow too much time between. Read the instructions.
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I always put it on and let it sit overnight then scotchbrite it off under running water. It often takes more than one application. You could apply it, let it sit for a few hours then scotchbrite it and see how far it gets you. It's a messy process best done outside or at a utility sink. That's not to say I haven't done it in the kitchen. (best done when home alone!)
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I have used it on ugly stix and other fiberglas blanks with no ill effects. Don't know about E-glass however.
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Try gently blowing thru a soda straw on the wraps after coating. The CO2 in your breath helps bubbles to release. Don't spit on it. Actually after finish is mixed if there are some bubbles in it and there very likely will be, blow thru the straw right into the cup and you can see this miracle take place right before your eyes.
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And Zach, thanks for letting us know you got it fixed!
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Must be a new record for time of original post to time repair carried out!
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