I think Get - Bit lists them. Might want to call them.
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What Jim said! lol
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FC tops have been discontinued, I've been using LG's
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The lightly swaged Minima 3's can sometimes have sharp edges on the tip side of the ring.
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They may not need to be that close, but they are that close and have to be finished. On future builds Mike can avoid this problem. He could re-wrap them, but it sounds like he would prefer to avoid that..
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Check this out: a discount might be available if you contact them for a quote shipped to you.
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No it's not too close, if you're very careful finish won't go down over the edge of the female section. Make sure your application hand is firmly supported and apply while turning. You only need a small amount of finish to get around the very end of the wrap, then finish the rest of the wrap. Less is more.
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I love cork. lol
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Don't go old school! Think positive anti-reverse.
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Yes there are online resources. For instance you might preform a search on this forum. Type in the topic of your choice, set for all dates, and hit search. You could also study this page and find info that relates to your question. Look around a little.
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I said less is more, however, I just put a 5" J.T. dragonscale on a Point Blank 691 MLXF that weighed in at 3.2 oz. So I guess you can have both. Coulda' made it lighter though! lol
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Your'e all set.
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The only one of those I see on the list is Sea Guide.
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Greg, you are correct in that these are in no way exposed blank seats even though they are clearly described as such. If they need an insert (which they fail to mention) that would make them exposed insert seats. I have fallen into this trap myself with the spin seats. I got around it, but it was a real PIA!
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I would suspect it requires an insert. Were it a true exposed blank seat you'd have to provide the o.d. of the blank where you wanted it to sit when ordering.
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Less is more.
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Jason, It irks a lot of us. Being led in the wrong direction is no help to any of us, especially not to beginning builders. I believe it does builders a disservice.
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Nothing better than making a great older rod into an even greater newer rod. For my next trick I shall attempt to remove a Minima spin seat from a 4-10lb. AT matrix blank using a heat gun. I may be on thin ice here! I thought I wanted it on there just a few years ago! I shall proceed with great caution.
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The Point Blank I have can't be described as having any kind of ridges. While it is not smooth as if sanded, you'd never know it while wrapping. It seems to be largely cosmetic.
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Read the micro guide thread two below this.
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Some good info on the Angler's Resource website.
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Steve, does the Rodmaker article detail the assembly process for these handles? Thanks
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Havin' fun here!
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Ferr-L-Tite is also a good option. ( archery)
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Eye protection.
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Mr. Kirkman, top notch response, easily overlooked option.
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I cut all my threads short also. I have a basket full of spinning reels at a wide range of ages, of the size we typically use, (bass type) and all the feet measure the same. If foot length increases in the future, I have a grinder.
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You might find a Fuji tip repair kit locally (Walmart, Dick's, Academy Spts. etc. They come with a glue stick. Don't get a South Bend kit, the glue's not the best.
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Thanks Spencer.
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I also use the Fuji LOGR backstop lock nut. I find myself building most spin rods uplocking. I don't like foregrips. For instance with a size 16 Fuji TVS seat, standard metal hood, LOGR nut. I then trim excess threads and install it uplocking. A size 17WCS check is used to terminate the seat where the foregrip would have been. Nice compact package. Whole deal measures a pinch over 4.5". I c
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