In the past, I have simply selected blank-through reel seats based on the blanks position at mid tube of said reel seat. then I would make handle adjustments (up or down the blank) as necessary. However, now I wonder if there might be a better choice. Should the measurement of the blank's diameter correspond with the rear of the seat tube, the middle of the seat tube, or its front? I really h
Forum: rodboard

Would a pre-treatment with a spray fixative mitigate that problem? Just curious.
Forum: rodboard

I am toying with the idea of putting finish on an EVA foam grip and then marbling. Any thoughts, tips, or experiences with doing such would be appreciated. Like so many of my projects, I have no idea of what I am doing! :) Thanks for any comments!
Forum: rodboard

Polyurethane spar varnish?
Forum: rodboard

Years ago, St. Croix offered a rod specifically designed for the 'Float'n'Fly" technique. (They may have done so in collaboration with Ed Nuchols before his untimely death.) It was a two piece, 8'6" rod with a light action and was designated for use with lines from 4 lbs to 8 lbs. They offer something similar now (PS86LM2), although the original completed rod came with an oversized T
Forum: rodboard

Thanks to everyone for all the replies. I think my question was answered quite adequately. I know questions I didn't ask were answered quite adequately, and the information, as usual, was more than welcome. Essentially, I like the aesthetics of the single foot guide, but was concerned that there might be a limit to line weight for rods on which they were employed. Apparently, a five weight wo
Forum: rodboard

In the past, I've used single foot guides on a lighter rod (7' four weight) and snake guides on a 9 1/2' seven weight rod. I am considering an Eternity 9' five weight for the near future. What are the pros and cons of single foot vs. traditional double footed snake guides? I would really appreciate some opinions on this subject. Thanks in advance! Slainte, Hunter
Forum: rodboard

Just to add my two (and, probably, un-needed) cents: I also use dry wall tape, however I apply it in two stages for the concerns mentioned above. I put on two or three wraps on the blank, and then use a spatula/palette knife to force a fast setting epoxy into the mesh. This secures a base to the blank. When set, I then wrap dry wall tape until I get a tight fit for the reel seat. If the blan
Forum: rodboard

FWIW, I prefer the moderately priced ($3 to $4) 'art brushes' found at places like A. C. Moore and Michaels, and I clean them with the Flex Coat Brush Cleaner. First, I like a stiff, flat 1/4" brush for applying finish. There was a time when I even used a metal palette knife for a first coat on threads, but they are getting harder to find where I live. I don't 'soak' the brushes, either.
Forum: rodboard

I use 20 and 30 lb Power Pro attached to co-polymer leaders (anywhere from 8 lb to 14 lb) with a double uni knot. A well tied knot will have no difficulty passing through a #5 ring, or even a #4.5 ring. You'll be more than fine with a #6. I don't think it makes a bit of difference but I use Alps RRD running guides instead of Fuji. Slainte!
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for all the comments, everyone. Sorry this has been delayed in coming, but I have been otherwise occupied in recent weeks. I will be using a number of these ideas. I hope I have time to do so before the summer is through!:) Slainte, Hunter
Forum: rodboard

I have a couple of vintage spincast reels (most notably a Abumatic 170), and I keep entertaining thoughts of fishing them. If you're an old fart like me, you'll remember the day when baitcasting/spincasting reel seats did not have a "blank through" design. The blank ended in the foregrip, which allowed the reel seat to sit below the axis of the blank. Essentially, all this means is t
Forum: rodboard

Chris. Thanks. I look forward to hearing you opinion.
Forum: rodboard

I'm just bumping this back to the top because I am curious, too. Slainte, Hunter
Forum: rodboard

Thanks! I confused the two! Hunter
Forum: rodboard

I know at one time they were. I haven't even been able to contemplate a trip to the show in recent years, but plan to do so now. Regardless, I haven't kept up on this. Are tickets now a completely seperate item? Thanks! Slainte, Hunter
Forum: rodboard

Additionally, with that many on hand, aren't they simply disposable? Use once; throw away. I would think with a single use, contamination would be minimal, to the point of unnoticeable. A simple test run should confirm this.
Forum: rodboard

I have used guinea hen feathers for inlays. They're not particularly colorful, but you can obtain more than enough in any fly shop for next to nothing. Used in mass, they do produce a nice effect on the butt section. Slainte, Hunter
Forum: rodboard

Thanks. That's enough to dissuade me!
Forum: rodboard

In reading through the thread concerning the use of Birchwood @#$%& Tru Oil as opposed to Cork Seal, I started wondering if Tung Oil would be a better choice. Does anyone have any experience with Tung Oil used on cork handles? I am very tempted, but I wanted to know if anyone knew why I shouldn't try it. Just curious. Slainte, Hunter
Forum: rodboard

My attitude has always been, "Buy whatever makes you feel good." Of course, I don't particularly care about the ring material, but I do like those guides which secure that ring better. I imagine almost any aluminum oxide ring in a good stainless steel frame will suffice for bass fishing. I've yet to meet the black bass that will make a fifty yard run, much less one over a hundred. I
Forum: rodboard

This time of year, the room in which I wrap my rods is about 68 degrees. I haven't experienced any difficulties. In fact, it may be my imagination, but I believe Threadmaster Lite will level better at that temperature than it does in warmer summer months. It also allows me a greater margin of error when applying the second coat of finish. Delamination is less of a peril, IMO. Slainte, Hunte
Forum: rodboard

I have an unrepentant sweet tooth that enables my addiction to the little pies (or tarts) sold at Wally World in their bakery department. Lemon, apple, blueberry, etc.; it doesn't really matter. However, these little delights come in an aluminum pie plate about 3" in diameter. I wash and save them and have found they are ideal receptacles into which I can pour my finish once it is mixed.
Forum: rodboard

Lee, Flex Coat produced a DVD (I think originally it was a VHS) that can be very useful to the beginning rod builder. It will show you some very interesting short cuts that can save a lot of money. There was a time when Cabelas offered a package for beginners that included a wrapper, drying motor and stand (but no chuck), an assortment of tools, and said DVD. It was just over $100, IIRC. I do
Forum: rodboard

Don, Thanks for posting the information. I have been pondering it for the last few days, and now have a question: how "water resistant" does our epoxy have to be? I typically build rods for fresh water fishing (mostly bass). Admittedly, sometimes a rod gets dunked and water does splash about in my canoe from time to time. Nonetheless, it seems all the epoxies you listed should be a
Forum: rodboard

Lots of the suppliers listed in the left hand margin can provide that. Just visit a site, find one, and give 'em a call. I know Utmost has them, but I imagine nearly all of the full service suppliers do, too.
Forum: rodboard

Kevin, You do know that poorly tied flies still catch trout. You can't sell the to fishermen, but they will still catch fish. I am not exactly sure what this says about fishermen and fish, but it is true! Slainte, Hunter
Forum: rodboard

Good lighting is as important as the magnification, IMO. Years ago I bought a magnifying lamp. Basically, it is a large magnifying lense surrounded by a circular fluorescent bulb. It is mounted on an adjustable swing arm. Originally, I purchased it for fly tying. I don't know that my eyes were ever up to the task of tying #22 midges. When I started building rods, I found it essential for al
Forum: rodboard

Thanks, Bill. And, I always use Ultimate Epoxy Gel for the butt caps, too. Slainte, Hunter
Forum: rodboard

I am about to build my first handle from rings. I was planning on using a two part epoxy, but a friend said he has been using Titebond III and prefers the results. I would really like to hear other opinions about this. Supposedly, the advantage is that there is less "ooze" from the joints which requires later cleaning. I like that. Is it as strong, though? Just curious as to what
Forum: rodboard