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Current Page: 8 of 16
Results 211 - 240 of 469
4 years ago
John Cates
Chris Yes, that is a fuji casting reel seat and it is sized specifically.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
I am always a believer in reinforcing the custom in custom fishing rods. I say make it your own. Here is a video on the subject of split grips that we did a few years ago.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
~OEM quality. ~40 - 200 RPMs w/ off switch. ~The Original Precision Milled Slip Clutch included. ~The Original Self Adjusting Chuck (available in custom sizes). ~Powerful DC Motor. ~Works great with all types of rods. ~Made in the USA. Best Regards
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Without getting scientific, because I am not an epoxy formulator;) I think it is not a bad idea. We are in Texas where our cars sit in the sun and get to be about 120F on many days in the summer. While we aren't really concerned so much about the "final 10%" we do need to speed the cure time so that we can wet our lines. We let the rod rotate at room temp for a few hours and then put
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Copy that. Just wasn't sure. Maybe between yours and Lance's I read into it a bit.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Not sure what all the prodding is about but, yes, we at Flex Coat have our opinions on all aspects of rod building, not just color preserver. Ours is great. As far as the best, well you tell me. We do believe that using any color preserver on the wrap that holds the guide down makes for not as strong a bond versus epoxy alone, as alluded to several times above on both sides of the issue. Fanc
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Here is a video on measuring and mixing Flex Coat Finish:
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Nice! That is a good story behind a great company.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
I think it is easy to blame the finish, no matter what brand, but, as said earlier, the rod blank, the guide foot, the thread and the finish all come together to form this structure and all have different materials and flexing rates. Most notably the blank and the metal guide foot which are pulling away from each other to put enormous stress in a very small area of the thread and finish. When m
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Nice site!
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
This is how we do it.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Simple Rod Finish Method. No motor rotation during cure.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Hang in there!
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Good topic. Also, newly available is our Flex Coat Variable Speed DC Motor. It comes standard with a slip clutch and can be adjusted from 40-200 rpms. A very powerful, long lasting, and cost effective tool for a professional finish.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Check it out... Quick, easy, strong, long lasting, even on large offshore rods, and no it won't melt in your car on a hot day. It just works, well.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Flex Coat Pilot Bits Flex Coat Reverse Pilot Bits
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
I don't normally comment on other brands of finish, but this is classic silicone contamination. In the time that rod has been away it has been coated with some kind of silicone, WD40, or the like. You will have to clean that off first with a citrus based cleaner. Clean it and clean it again. In our humble opinion, as long as the surface is clean and dry, no scuffing is required. Just a though
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Jason All of this is true. Don't by an amount of Flex Coat that you can't use in 1 year, though it will last longer. Keep it in a cool, dry, dark place. Melt the crystals before measuring if they form. Also, the yellow in the hardener bottle is indicative of all epoxy hardeners and is most visible when seen through the thickness of the bottle. Keep in mind that you will be diluting it by h
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Ok, Neil. I am glad we have taken care of you. Please don't hesitate to reach out to me via email or phone and I will be more than happy to talk to you and help resolve any issues you have in rod building.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Hey Neil It could be the thread, how long have you had the wrapper? We have recently upgraded our tension devices with a set of teflon washers to avoid these issues with all types of thread. Call or email and I will send you a set. 512-858-7742 or flexcoat@gmail.com
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Yes, I would melt those crystals prior to using again. I also don't recommend warming the entire bottle it you don't have to. I usually measure out the part B first in a measuring cup and then part A. Then I zap it in the microwave for a few seconds depending on the amount, and then I mix it.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Perhaps this video can help. No tail stock. No walking out of chuck. No mess in your clean wrapping and finishing room. Breaks down for storage. Buy ours or build your own.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Brandon The part B hardener does yellow in the bottle over time or with the introduction of heat. The part A Resin can develop crystals just like honey can over time. You should store them in a cool, dry, dark place. While there is nothing to be done about the yellowing in the bottle, the crystals in the part A can be melted with a hot water bath or as suggested by zapping it in the microwave
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Yeah, silicone contamination can come from many places. Medical syringes, decals, monofilament, WD-40, dirty hands, I have talked to a few builders that build close to their kitchen and cooking oil that is airborne can cause fisheyes. No matter what epoxy finish you use you will have to address the contamination issue. Keep your finishing and wrapping room clean and free of possible contaminan
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Our Heck or High Water OEM Paste will certainly do the job and it stays where you put it. Flex Coat Rod Builders Glue and Five Minute Epoxy will work great as well. It does sound like you are using too much. Here is a video link to how we do it, hope it helps (go to the 1:10 time mark and the 3:30 time mark for the reel seat gluing).
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Gentlemen Might I offer a third option that has been used and loved by the OEM class of rod building for decades. Our DL713 and DL747 offer a direct drive shaft, made in America motor with foot control that lasts and lasts, guide alignment board that allows you to lock your rod in positions and sight down directly over your rod to place your guides in perfect alignment with guide foot adhes
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
I am sorry to hear that we are losing another great rod builder. I do take solace knowing that you have shared not only your possessions, but your knowledge and story with this community and others. Thanks for sharing and I hope you find time to heal, rest, and still be a part of this rod building forum.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
We use our Rod Builder's Glue, Five Minute Epoxy, or even our @#$%& or High Water OEM Paste Epoxy to glue cork and EVA together all the time. Apply, clamp, and wipe with a paper towel with Denatured Alcohol for clean up. Works great.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
We do still sell it. It comes in 25 and 75 foot rolls, 36 grit. Call us and we can help you. 512-858-7742 Also, here is the video we shot a few years back. You have to make sure that you wrap it and use it in the right direction or it will fail. These are power reamers. Our reamers that we have made have lasted for more than 10 years.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
John Cates
Mastering Guide Foot Adhesive Video:
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 8 of 16

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