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Current Page: 3 of 11
Results 61 - 90 of 306
10 months ago
John Cates
Good topic. Also, newly available is our Flex Coat Variable Speed DC Motor. It comes standard with a slip clutch and can be adjusted from 40-200 rpms. A very powerful, long lasting, and cost effective tool for a professional finish.
Forum: rodboard
10 months ago
John Cates
Check it out... Quick, easy, strong, long lasting, even on large offshore rods, and no it won't melt in your car on a hot day. It just works, well.
Forum: rodboard
10 months ago
John Cates
Flex Coat Pilot Bits Flex Coat Reverse Pilot Bits
Forum: rodboard
10 months ago
John Cates
I don't normally comment on other brands of finish, but this is classic silicone contamination. In the time that rod has been away it has been coated with some kind of silicone, WD40, or the like. You will have to clean that off first with a citrus based cleaner. Clean it and clean it again. In our humble opinion, as long as the surface is clean and dry, no scuffing is required. Just a though
Forum: rodboard
10 months ago
John Cates
Jason All of this is true. Don't by an amount of Flex Coat that you can't use in 1 year, though it will last longer. Keep it in a cool, dry, dark place. Melt the crystals before measuring if they form. Also, the yellow in the hardener bottle is indicative of all epoxy hardeners and is most visible when seen through the thickness of the bottle. Keep in mind that you will be diluting it by h
Forum: rodboard
10 months ago
John Cates
Ok, Neil. I am glad we have taken care of you. Please don't hesitate to reach out to me via email or phone and I will be more than happy to talk to you and help resolve any issues you have in rod building.
Forum: rodboard
10 months ago
John Cates
Hey Neil It could be the thread, how long have you had the wrapper? We have recently upgraded our tension devices with a set of teflon washers to avoid these issues with all types of thread. Call or email and I will send you a set. 512-858-7742 or flexcoat@gmail.com
Forum: rodboard
11 months ago
John Cates
Yes, I would melt those crystals prior to using again. I also don't recommend warming the entire bottle it you don't have to. I usually measure out the part B first in a measuring cup and then part A. Then I zap it in the microwave for a few seconds depending on the amount, and then I mix it.
Forum: rodboard
11 months ago
John Cates
Perhaps this video can help. No tail stock. No walking out of chuck. No mess in your clean wrapping and finishing room. Breaks down for storage. Buy ours or build your own.
Forum: rodboard
11 months ago
John Cates
Brandon The part B hardener does yellow in the bottle over time or with the introduction of heat. The part A Resin can develop crystals just like honey can over time. You should store them in a cool, dry, dark place. While there is nothing to be done about the yellowing in the bottle, the crystals in the part A can be melted with a hot water bath or as suggested by zapping it in the microwave
Forum: rodboard
11 months ago
John Cates
Yeah, silicone contamination can come from many places. Medical syringes, decals, monofilament, WD-40, dirty hands, I have talked to a few builders that build close to their kitchen and cooking oil that is airborne can cause fisheyes. No matter what epoxy finish you use you will have to address the contamination issue. Keep your finishing and wrapping room clean and free of possible contaminan
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
Our Heck or High Water OEM Paste will certainly do the job and it stays where you put it. Flex Coat Rod Builders Glue and Five Minute Epoxy will work great as well. It does sound like you are using too much. Here is a video link to how we do it, hope it helps (go to the 1:10 time mark and the 3:30 time mark for the reel seat gluing).
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
Gentlemen Might I offer a third option that has been used and loved by the OEM class of rod building for decades. Our DL713 and DL747 offer a direct drive shaft, made in America motor with foot control that lasts and lasts, guide alignment board that allows you to lock your rod in positions and sight down directly over your rod to place your guides in perfect alignment with guide foot adhes
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
I am sorry to hear that we are losing another great rod builder. I do take solace knowing that you have shared not only your possessions, but your knowledge and story with this community and others. Thanks for sharing and I hope you find time to heal, rest, and still be a part of this rod building forum.
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
We use our Rod Builder's Glue, Five Minute Epoxy, or even our @#$%& or High Water OEM Paste Epoxy to glue cork and EVA together all the time. Apply, clamp, and wipe with a paper towel with Denatured Alcohol for clean up. Works great.
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
We do still sell it. It comes in 25 and 75 foot rolls, 36 grit. Call us and we can help you. 512-858-7742 Also, here is the video we shot a few years back. You have to make sure that you wrap it and use it in the right direction or it will fail. These are power reamers. Our reamers that we have made have lasted for more than 10 years.
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
Mastering Guide Foot Adhesive Video:
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
Chris We recommend just a good saturating coat for the 1st coat. A 6 to 10 cc mix will cover that first coat. Here is a video on how we do it:
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
Actually I heard Zappa say, "Is that a real pancho or a Sears Pancho." Great Googly Moogly.
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
Mike Our equipment is OEM quality and won't phase out. Made in the USA. You want to build rods better than you can buy. We offer a Small Business Starter Kit that will give you the tools in information to build a "beginner" rod and carry you forward with your future builds. You can add equipment and accessories to this kit and build like the Pro's. Buying the best you can get in e
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
With Flex Coat finish, we always recommend pouring out on aluminum foil over a paper plate once mixed. This helps pop bubbles, extends the pot life, and gives you a good work surface to let any excess finish drip off the rod and back into the foil covered plate. If you have any bubbles that make it to the rod, you can deal with those with a heat source like a lighter, torch, or a heat gun. Be
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
Here is a video on how we do it with our foam butt disc and cork rings.
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
Mark Great question. You can put the reel seat on before or after. We always put in on before building the grip and slide on from the tip with a reamed reel seat arbor. If I put it on after the cork grip then I would use masking tape bushings and slide it on from the butt. Put on two layers of tape to protect the blank and reel seat. Yes, cover the reel seat and other areas that need prot
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
...or just one rod.
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
That is exactly what we do and talk about in the video on making a reamer. Go to the 2 minute mark about reaming cork rings. Find the measurement by doing the first rings conservatively, go back and forth a couple times and sneak up on the proper ream, NO MEASUREMENT REQUIRED. Here is another video that we made about our cork lathe setup that shows the technique with the power reamer and co
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
A set of calipers work great for these measurements.
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
When working with cork rings we try to keep it simple. In our videos we ream the cork rings either on a power reamer that we build from an extra or old blank that matches the taper of the rod we want to build and some reamer abrasive that we offer in 25 foot or 75 foot lengths or ream them one at a time with a rat tail file so that they slide down in place on the rod blank. We then glue them
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
All true. We offer reverse pilot bits and standard pilot bits. We no longer have the kits to make your own pilot bit, but if you give me a call I am always happy to walk you through the process. Here is a video that features both bits in action.
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
Great topic! We made this video some years ago. Making a Power Reamer. Better than any reamer you could buy and it matches the taper of your rods you build. We have found 36 grit reamer abrasive to be optimal and sell it in 25 ft. and 75 ft. rolls. We have reamers made this way that are well over 10 years old and still reaming. Here is the link to the video from 2011
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
John Cates
Chase Our Cork Lathe Setup is a great option that works with a drill that you might already have. It sets up fast and can be broken down and put away in a drawer or box. No need to dedicate precious shop space to a bulky lathe that you don't use often. Check out the video and link to our website:
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 3 of 11

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