That wrapper/finisher is nice. I would even say the best. Though I am a bit biased. I made it.
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I have always liked Melamine coated MDF or an HDPE plastic like Star Board. You can get the HDPE in a variety of colors and thicknesses through local dealers. Star Board is a brand name and pricey. The great thing about the plastic or Melamine is that when you get epoxy or other things on it, they either peel off when cured or wipe clean easily. Regards
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Find the best cork you you get and don't look back.
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I get it, Bill, we do sell over 100,000 brushes in a year, and while we do have quality control in place, nobody is perfect. With that said, we have a box of the brushes that do not pass quality control and that is what I use to finish my own rods quite frequently. Many times they are like the way you described and I still use them in the way shown in the video I posted above with great success
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William Our brushes are not made in China. In fact they were specifically designed for rod building 47 years ago by Roger Seiders. We use a very fine non-porous nylon bristle that is tightly packed and cut to under half an inch in length. This allows them to NOT release microscopic bubbles when saturated with finish and can fan out to work as a squeegee and effectively move and saturate fin
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It is not a typical hot melt glue. Ours we have tested and identified a select formula that we guarantee and has been reliable for several decades. Here is a video: You can get it here:
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Roger They usually fry them. At the end of the video I showed a few seconds of the actual fish fry, even though they shot it in the wrong aspect ratio, so it goes...
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Check it out:
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thirty seconds in will answer this...
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Sometimes epoxy companies use a white bottle for the part B to mask this yellowing.
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Custom Rods : Fighter Jets
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Well, as others have said, it can yellow in the bottle. However, it is important to keep in mind that you are cutting it in half with the part A and then applying it in a very thin coat. Many times you will only see this on light color blanks and wraps, butt now I am getting in the weeds...
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The only issues with that finish will be cosmetic. We say that you shouldn't buy a quantity that you can't use in one year.
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Robert It is possible to get razor thin coats with any viscosity of finish. Our Lite formula is just easier to achieve thin coats because it is a thinner viscosity. It is primarily for fly rods where weight is very important. The waves in the finish used to be my biggest problem as well until I learned the Catch the Wave technique from Roger Seiders as outlined in one of the videos I post
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Robert Is there any reason to switch? Are you having troubles with the Flex Coat? If it isn't broke... I personally like Flex Coat Ultra-V formula. Better adhesion and working time. Workability is nice too. Here are a couple videos that show how we do it:
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Yes, you can cure your rod on the motor at 40rpm. It is actually about 37rpm but bug deal, I like round numbers. Obviously if you want to move on to the next build, you will want to invest in an additional curing station, whether that is a stand alone motor and stand or our imitated but never duplicated 4X machines that are wall mounted and awesome. And again, all our equipment is OEM quality,
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So let it be written, so let it be done...
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Always start with the best cork you can get...
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Jim If you are still having any problems with our CP, please consider giving me a call and we can work it out together. 512-858-7742
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Tom Flex Coat Guide Foot Adhesive. I demonstrated this all weekend at the show and could have sold a case of it if I had it with me. Check out the videos:
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Jim Yes and yes. We have the following video on youtube that we posted 10 years ago, wow has it been that long??? Check it out... Also, Jim, I hope to see you at the show, buddy.
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Me too. My grammar and spelling are far from perfect.
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Mix the Flex Coat 1 to 1 normally. Once mixed, add the thinner at a 1 to 15 ratio, meaning for a 15cc mix of finish add 1cc of thinner. This will thin the finish enough to quickly soak in for fast production application. Many on this site aren't ever in a large production scenario so the advantages of thinning are moot. Again, it should only be done on the first coat only for speed of applica
Forum: rodboard

When you thin the first coat and only the first coat, it is only for speed of application and nothing else. You can use acetone or DNA at a 1:15 ratio after the finish is fully mixed initially. This is only advantageous in high production situations where time is money. The thinner finish soaks in fast and levels. It allows the fast work flow of getting the threads saturated on move on to the n
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You are playing with fire.
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Here is our video:
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