there is space between the thread an the guide, we try to fill that space with the finish , so put a drop of finish in the holes beside the guides , tip it so it will run down into them , to fill the gap , better strength , an keep water junk out of them , so it will not rust over time , it will take a little doing to get the hang of it , every one is a little different , I do the left side
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but out the word you could get some help from the forum if there are some people that live near you it won't hurt give it a try the people here do lots of good things I have been told give out the part of the country you are in it might work SId
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use higher guides less line slap on rod , better casting , if you will be fishing in cold weather [ FREEZ UP ] go larger guides an a guide on the top [ large hole ] not a tip top you will de ice them less my feeling on your question, the comment about the dark guides has some mar- it , recoil has a BLACK guide now , will try on my next center pin rod [ use 8's if not 10's for
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don't know what type of veneer you want solid or all ground up an glue together tru a craft shop they have some or an auto supply shop for gasket materail SID
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PS Anglers Workshop [ sponsor ] did list them give them a call [ cheep today ] not every thing is on there web site SID
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you might as for some help befor you burn it up as it did work an if you hook it up improperly you will get smoke an nothing will work then , have some one local look at it a handy man that fixes stuff [ electrical ] is your best shot good luck SID
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give us some information on the rod it also goes into the type of guides I think SID
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guide size on a fly rod it would be great to have a very small set ,but I was told by a old time rod builder on thei web site the running guide size has to let your """ KNOT's """ flow throu them don't want the knot to get caught on them I could be wrong , what ever size you get do look at "" SNAKE "" brand snake guides, the stan
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not a large builder, part time one , any tine I have had a problem , it was corrected very fast , with very little extra cost , if any, I do most of my busness with them because they treat me fairly SID
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that type of rod is it what stringth line ? most grips are not 1 1/4 " it is most likey .8 to 1 inch just smoth it up an put a winding check on it look great an last a long time use a metal check [ I think ] an it is great , an that is just a start , PS some heavy surf rods can be larger grips
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some do an some dont but , take the time an do a good job , the best you can , don't cut coroner's do a great job , you would be happy with my 2 CTS
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if the center plane of the chuck is not the same as the center plane of the rod ,it will work its way out of the chuck , so make sure the center of the chuck is pointing on the same plane as the rod if not adj the the motor or the rest pivot point so every thing lines up , it don't have to be perfect , but the closer the better , an don't for get to make it level when you put the FLEX COAT
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if the center plane of the chuck is not the same as the center plane of the rod ,it will work its way out of the chuck , so make sure the center of the chuck is pointing on the same plane as the rod if not adj the the motor or the rest pivot point so every thing lines up , it don't have to be perfect , but the closer the better , an don't for get to make it level when you put the FLEX COAT
Forum: rodboard

if the center plane of the chuck is not the same as the center plane of the rod ,it will work its way out of the chuck , so make sure the center of the chuck is pointing on the same plane as the rod if not adj the the motor or the rest pivot point so every thing lines up , it don't have to be perfect , but the closer the better , an don't for get to make it level when you put the FLEX COAT
Forum: rodboard

if the center plane of the chuck is not the same as the center plane of the rod ,it will work its way out of the chuck , so make sure the center of the chuck is pointing on the same plane as the rod if not adj the the motor or the rest pivot point so every thing lines up , it don't have to be perfect , but the closer the better , an don't for get to make it level when you put the FLEX COAT
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you can talk about cleaning up after BUT , out of the work shop , wraping room, it don't have to be as clean as the wrap room , in the spring time you can take a water hose to it a lot easer for me my 2 cts SID
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also the way the rod responds to you , limber, more flexability , not as stiff , some to start with , if your rods take a beating don't go there , the 2 footed would be better , SID
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when you mail a book you take it to the postoffice not your employee you packed it up not your employee YOU YOU YOU [ you don't get paid ] your employee get paid so where will the employee's money come from ??? SID
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glad it worked out well for you SID
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Roger if you only cut a few rod's [ 1 to 3 ] won't a drumel electric hand tool work out , I know it is not as fast as the chop saw but the drumel tool with a thin cut off blade , it worked for me , an I had one in my collection of tools , SID
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just about all gudes will work it is just how much money you want to spend on the guides most of the highter end guides will last longer than the less expencive ones an where it will be beat up a lot , American tackle is handled by a lot of our supporters but Mud Hole stocks a lot of them , there web site is great for a small user like me
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all will work you use what you have readdy, BEESwax is great , I use it , as I can see an feal it on the rod , some one pointed out about the size of blank & size of rod an the bonding of rings to blank , I can build up the threaded rod better as it is a little stickey [ mine is ] good luck , if you can't get it off find some one with a ARK welder an heat up the rod as I have used it
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did you go back to the Masters CAT. [2011 ] I found some listed
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did you go back to the Masters CAT. [2011 ] I found some listed
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PS the fret saw will not work on the GRYOS blade it only works on scrool saw blades but the hand scrool saw units work like , a dream [ Mud Hole sells them , put the teeth as close to the clamp make as tight as you can , an go slowley set the teeth so you cut on the pull, not the push , of the saw an cut the out side of the ring frist, by turning it , cut the middle, no tape, very little
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in cutting cork rings I have used lots of saw blades, out come was not good , looked around found a Gyros saw blade .008 thick, 60 TPI , an use a Fretsaw handle to hold the blade [ tight ] have the teeth on the blade as close as you can get to the clamps on the Fretsaw, you have to stabilize the cork ring some how. I use Nylon / Metal spacers with a bolt an nut [ LOWS ] with strips of
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most of all the blank makers have a real good line an then a lesser line so don't cross out any one maker, a lot depends where you are an how far you are from a supply er as every supply er has there favort maker , & every maker has many types of blanks my 2CTS Bill [ could be wrong ] but I am also GREEN at doing BLANKS but having fun
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thanks John , SID
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as this is the frist EXPO I am trying to go to what are the Dates an where will it be [ town State ] SID
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unless a guide is real close to it , then make the guid an the spigot as one wrap [ make the wrap a little longer ] some times it just works out that way , more so with the 3 / 4 / 5 section rods
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