they were true before the laws were formulated..lol.
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It,s much lower if your using braid..Often when stripping a streamer, you will hook a fish..
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30% lighter, 50% stronger.. T he modulus must be off the chart..What is the modulus?
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And you use a fly rod..fly line is too heavy to shoot
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Mike, listen to Tom..
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No problem..the blank is a CRB 61/2' long cut back to 5' light power e fiberglass rod from Mudhole..I use 10# Power Pro line on a size 1000 reel spinning..shooting a 1/4 oz.rattle trap with the shot removed, no hooks when practice shooting..I think that covers it..I strongly suggest you practice to get timing down between lure release and line release...Good luck Phil..Just adding..instead of tyi
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.Carl, isn,t that too many guides?..Just joking..lol.
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Three corner file..no splintering for sure..And no dust in the air.
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Phil, you saying a rod has no power of it,s own.. I build what I call a bow and arrow rod where I just pull back the lure to put bend or bow in the rod , then release the lure which is shot by the rod up to sixty feet..I supplied the potential energy and the rod suppliec the power..The more I flex the rod the more energy it stores to shoot the lure..If I used a stiffer rod it would have more powe
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Ha! OK Mark..It went right over my head which is easy to do anymore..but yea, we live in the age of hypersensitivity..It,ll pass..lol. Thanks for setting me straight..lol.
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Chris, way, way back we didn,t use a stick, just a hand line for eels and cats..crude and lewd..lol.
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Mark, Is two guides plus tip going to have anywhere near the hook setting power you need? Additional guides are needed..so you add a guide then another guide, then another until the hook set feels as solid as that rod can make it..you can test each guide set up and feel t he change in the hook set power..You will come to a point where there is no change or so little there is no reason to add more
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I agree with Spencer and would like to add that line diameter is the main influencer for sensetivity not stretch..Braids are very thin while monos are much thicker and less sensetive
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Try to use a number of guides that maximize hook setting power and fish control as described earlier in this topic..You can easily feel a rods hook setting power especially well if you use braided line in the hook set teest described above..Please be careful with braided line if your testing a graphite rod..I build and fish glass rods because I prefer to use braided line which provides as much se
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And path of the line is a function of guide number and placement.
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Phil, correct me if I,m wrong but in your description above of the double haul I think you have too many forward punches. no?
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I do as John with rod length plus one..I ty off to something solid, make a few Yanks to get an idea of rod stiffness..Then add a guide or two a make some Yanks which now should feel stiffer..add another guide and test..You will reach a point where you feel very little or no change..You have found the optimum guide count for that rod to get the strongest hook set and maximum fish fighting control.
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my point is that it,s an exaggeration to scare new builders into thinking that fewer guides is better period..when another two or three more will create a rod that is more functional..G o into WalMart and look at their anemic rods..they all need two or three more guides if not four..They sacrifice performance for a few bucks more..But they have to, we don't do we? One of my specialty rods is a c
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I just do not see how you can have too many guides using today's modern guides..They weigh nothing nothing the weight comes from gobs of epoxy on the wraps Saturating the thread all the way to the blank.
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Ernie, there are plenty rod building taboos and if you follow them you will be building rods like you see in WalMart..not built for performance but for money, that may be what you hope to do some day and they all are alike in performance..plenty of company..lol..Performance does not come cheap..That,s your first clue..lol.
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listen to David..lol. Also, it may be worth trying #5 running guides.
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Ernie, using your 703 rod, ty the line to something solid, back off and make several practice hook sets, concentrating on how stiff the rod feels..Now untie and thread the line through the butt guide and skip every other guide out to the tip and ty off to something solid again..Make several practice hook sets again concentrating on the rods stiffness..Ask yourself, do you like more or less guides
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Ron, I could tell you some green banana stories, if I could only remember them..Ha! if it weren't for rod building and bug making my brain would be useless..Your Fenwick fly rod, is that an eight foot seven weight? If so,.it would make a nice bass bugging rod..Is that your use?
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Rather than soaking wraps in saturating epoxy ,I seal them with CP. And apply just one coat of epoxy..rods retain their crispiness especially fly rods
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thanks Phil, good stuff!
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Tom, I think it was in Vol.4 issue 2 that the test study you did on wraps with and without CP..It took 10# of weight to pull out the guides with CP and epoxy and 11# to pull out guides with just epoxy and no CP.. and the guide frames all were.bent at 7# before being pulled out..not much difference.
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Me too..we,re just talking fishing and that,s fun.
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Chris, your right but why pay the higher price of carbon when you can get glass for a lot less? Sure carbon is lighter but it will never have the slow recovery rate of glass because it,s too light too responsive.
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Because it,s less costly and worth the risk doing it this way.
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Billy, your right it is a poorly performing site but it,s also a poorly performing economy that's only getting worse..Does anybody fish anymore? You don,t even see kids going down to the creek to catch suckers..
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