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5 years ago
Fred Cory
I would recommend US Composites or Raka Inc for 2 part foam. Both offer multiple densities.
I think Mike Riley was using 6 Lb Density foam
Forum: rodboard 5 years ago
Fred Cory
I have 2 on the boat - An AFTCO Maxforce and a Braid Brute Buster - I think I prefer the Braid a little bit more than the AFTCO because I like the Braid Butt Plate better. It is wider than the AFTCO, and I can move my knees a bit easier
Forum: rodboard 5 years ago
Fred Cory
The standard Aqua Blue laminate is good for larger diameter blanks - like offshore rods. I have had the most success (least cracking) by heating the shell in a sealed container of water and heating in a microwave
then applying very rapidly.
They will do a thinner version on request, but I believe they require an minimum order of 50 sheets for for the thinlam version - heating in water also wo
Forum: rodboard 5 years ago
Fred Cory
Yes you can use epoxy putty from HW store, but epoxy putty is fairly heavy.
I'm kind of partial to forming the ramp out of foam, then covering with a light thread wrap, and then applying epoxy over the thread.
Forum: rodboard 5 years ago
Fred Cory
What kind of rod are you making? Heavy and even Medium is definitely overkill for almost anything but offshore butts.
All you are doing is adding resin and weight with the heavier sleeving.
Forum: rodboard 6 years ago
Fred Cory
Having used a bunch of abalone, I find that if I wrap my sacrificial thread tight, the edges blend, and any small cracks get pulled tight to the adhesive and also blend in.
I don't think you will need to coat the abalone if your sacrificial wrap is good and snug and let it sit until the shell has cooled well.
Forum: rodboard 6 years ago
Fred Cory
If the rod was fished on the gunnel, did the blank get nicked? The other thought was that the blank was able to move in the ferrule...
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Fred Cory
You'll get lots of opinions from REALLY good rod builders. Once you find a system that works for you, keep using it.
What has worked for me is warming the bottles of epoxy in warm water - before measuring and mixing, then I mix vigoously - yes there are bubbles in the mix... then I apply the epoxy fast to the rod... once the finish is on, I use a micro torch to help the epoxy flow out - keep
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Fred Cory
11. Re: Polyurethane
How about color preserver over the ink - before finish?
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Fred Cory
Jay - sorry for the delayed response. I don't pour my own cores. I cannot justify enough molds when I need grips for a bunch of rods, just easier/cheaper to order cores.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Fred Cory
I have used West Systems for many years. For rod building, it is my go to for laminating carbon over foam grips.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Fred Cory
14. Re: Riley Rods
Sorry for the delayed response - Yes I got the cores - Turn around time 4 days from order to receipt of the cores.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Fred Cory
15. Re: Riley Rods
FWIW, I ordered Cores online on Monday and they shipped today...
If you need sleeve material, soller composites has it.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Fred Cory
Most of my rod building is for my own use. I'll build a set of rods of the components I want for my use, then use the rods for a few seasons, sell them for material cost and build a new set...
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Fred Cory
The closest thing to rod finish epoxy would be the clear table top finish.
An adhesive epoxy like Gorilla, Loc-Tite, etc really aren't suited
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Fred Cory
Flex Seal (as seen on TV) - 1 can for 19.99, but if you act now, you can get a second can for just shipping and handling...
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Fred Cory
19. Re: carbon fiber
Soller composites as mentioned above is the most comprehensive list of products and extremely reasonable pricing for small batch orders
Forum: rodboard 8 years ago
Fred Cory
I have used urethane resin for casting purposes, but the open working time is very short... Not to mention adding a bunch of weight
Forum: rodboard 8 years ago
Fred Cory
21. Re: Pro Paste
It does just fine with pigments. As stated, it works very similarly to rod bond.
Forum: rodboard 8 years ago
Fred Cory
If youhave a marine supply store near you, they typically carry small tubes of pigments - these are great, and IMHO require much less to be mixed in to your rod bond to achieve your color than powder paints
Forum: rodboard 8 years ago
Fred Cory
I haven't had a rod that I have built get broken in actual fishing conditions or as a result of normal wear and tear. A friend laid one down and stepped on it on the edge of a dock... That broke...
Forum: rodboard 8 years ago
Fred Cory
The inexpensive Laser engravers I have seen are pretty small with hard side walls - not sure you could get a rod butt into them.
They get expensive very quickly...
Forum: rodboard 8 years ago
Fred Cory
Abrasive blade on a miter saw would be my first pick. Hacksaw second, Dremel third. Wrap masking tape around and mark your cut line on the masking tape
Forum: rodboard 9 years ago
Fred Cory
27. Re: West systems
I use West Systems for all of my carbon grips. Carbon is not an issue for yellowing, so no worries there.
It is pretty thin, so even if it didn't yellow, it wouldn't provide much build as a thread coating...
Forum: rodboard 9 years ago
Fred Cory
I have a Diawa Spinning rod from the early 80s that is that translucent maroonish color - Very light but extremely tough rod
Forum: rodboard 9 years ago
Fred Cory
If you do decide to try the nylon arbor, you may want to test just how well your epoxy bonds to it.
At a minimum, you will need to rough them up a bit to get a bonding surface.
I would think that you would get a better bond with wood
Forum: rodboard 9 years ago
Fred Cory
Chances are that your resin/hardener ratio is off or you didn't thoroughly mix your epoxy prior to application - You can apply another coat, just make sure your ratio is correct and THOROUGHLY mixed
Forum: rodboard |