Mike, I heard it was a "Used Car Salesman". Could be wrong.
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So, in conclusion The World is Flat! Or is it?
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Where is it available?
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Point taken. I packaged it in a cardboard tube that I had just received 3 rod blanks in. They were shipped USPS. Dumb Me!
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Thank you Lance, Tony , Roger , Tom, David and Dan for the information. I'll make a last attempt at settling the claim. I really don't have much hope.
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I'll try to make a long story shorter. In June sold a previously built rod to a friend in Montana. We agreed on a price of $300. I shipped it to him USPS with insurance for $300. About 10 days later he sent me a picture of the broken rod and the packaging. I sent a claim to USPS by snail mail. with all the documentation. After about 45 days I received a rejection because the claim was not filed s
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The package was insured. Thanks for all the information.
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It was shipped in a cardboard tube that I received 3 rod blanks in from one of the companies to the left.
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Yes, I have a copy of the receipt.
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I shipped a 7.5 ft. fly rod to a customer in Montana USPS. He called to tell me it arrived broken. The pics showed it snapped about 2 inches above the grip. I need to file a claim. My question is, What do you use for a comparison Price? They want documents for proof of value.
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Most of the what I build are inshore spinning and fly rods. Done cork, exotic wood combinations and westerns red cedar. I find the cedar is not as light as cork or carbon fiber but not far off. I also like the various color combinations you can find in the wood.
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I also own a Pac Bay with the upgraded chuck. When I first got it I used the wrapping motor. Like some of the others, I now wrap most by hand. I find that using the chuck and the supports while turning the chuck by hand works great. I'll use the wrapping motor for things like spinning the rod to touch-up a poor epoxy wrap with sand paper or anything out of round on the rod. Because it has a dryer
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Welcome Aboard
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I also have built many handles from Western Red Cedar. They are very light and holdup well. For finish I've used Thread finish, Poly and true oil. The only problem I've had is with poly. Found I needed to refinish every year because of chipping and moisture getting under the finish. Used many other woods for handles that were great looking but heavy.
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Make sure it's Mesh drywall tape. Not paper tape.
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I have done this 2 ways. The first is just tape the paper to the surface and burn thru the paper. The contour of the surface will sometimes be a problem. Practice on something first. The second is a bit more complicated. You need to print the image in reverse on paper. Then run a copy on a laser copy machine. Tape the copy on the surface and use a clothing iron to transfer the image.
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I have done many Western Red Cedar grips. As said before, it is a very porous wood and will soak up finish. If you use some ink or paint in the engraving it will probably bleed outside of the engraving. Any laser engraving on wood that I've seen looks like it was burned in with a fine tipped instrument. If your challenge is to make the engraving stand out, it should by it's self. The only st
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You all bring up good points on reel selection. Part of it is a learning curve. When I goo from a small reel to a larger reel I have to remember to check my retrieve speed and correct it. I also like using as small a reel as possible but bump up against the drag issue when fishing 12 lbs. and above species. If you hook a bigger salmon in a small river and need to slow it down, you'll need the dra
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I buy dollar store disposable multi-blade razors. Break the blades out of the housing and I have multiple, very sharp blades at very little money.
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Masking tape is not the best solution. If it get wet it will fall apart. Buy a roll of mesh drywall tape it will not fall apart when wet. A large roll will build about a 100 rods. Some epoxy is better than others, but I've used varied 15 min. gel epoxies from the people on the left and have never had a grip failure.
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Ditto!
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Clint I also build rods in West Michigan. I don't know of a distributor in this area. The ones I use from the left side of the page are Get Bit Outdoors, Utmost and Schneiders. I'll use others is these guys don't have what I need.
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I agree with adding the a color twist series. On the quality of Fuji thread, I've used most other threads ( not including prowrap). For me I found Fuji to be the best I've used.
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When I use CP, I don't cut the thread until I've coated the thread with CP and let dry. I then lightly pull the thread tail and cut with a new or almost new razor blade. I've found that I have less chance of cutting into other threads using this procedure. Just another thing, I buy multiple blade razors at the dollar store and extract the blades from the razor, this gives me many sharp blades a
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I would like to thank Kevin and Jacob for the help. They went beyond the usual customer service. Kevin gave me a few ideas on how to fix my problem and when that didn't resolve it he turned me over to Jacob. Jacob looked at a few things and then had me try a different browser. Bingo, I was able to log in to my account. Altogether they must have spent 45 minutes with me on the phone. Again, they w
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Thanks everybody. Must be something on my end. I can't call GetBit. No cell phone or long distance service where I live.
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Could someone try to log-in at GetBit. I keep trying with no results. Is it me?
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Another vote for the blue painters tape. I've had certain tack clothes that have had issues arise with some finished. Never tried it with epoxy.
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I've used both and can't tell the difference.
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Some times U40 Quick Bond (15 minute set) or if I think it will take longer U 40 Rod Bond for grips. Rod Bond should stay good for 3-4yrs. if in 80 degree temps or less. Your guide epoxy is fine for anything other than white rods.
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