Looking for blank recommendations for a short, 2H fly rod under 9’ for Skagit casting. A 5-weight blank would be best. Although I know single-hand Spey is a thing, I really want to build it with a bottom handle for C-Spey & Double-Spey casts using both hands. I’m thinking maybe a fiberglass blank approximately 8’ would fit the bill(?) Maybe older E-glass for in-close loading (I’d like
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Is a CRB 16 too small to fit a 4000’s feet?
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I have a friend who’s interested in a boating fluke rod, which I don’t have any experience with. Can anyone recommend any blanks as a starting point for this species?
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Does anyone happen to have one in their supplies? Just looking for its weight.
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1. Has anyone built/fished the 10’ Surf Machine? I just looked at the blank at Surfland, but it feels a little too stiff for pencil work — can anyone confirm/refute that? 2. I also looked at a 10’ S1 Stealth (1205). This looked excellent for pencil work. It is rated 1-4 oz...that upper number seems high for the way it felt. Is it still “sweet” at 2.5 oz? Lastly, I looked at the 10.5’ Sl
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Thanks, Mark. I average about 50% humidity in my basement building area this time of year, which seems reasonable. I was just curious.
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Humidity is pretty damn high in the Northeast at the moment. In general, at what percent humidity in your rod building area do you start to worry about amine blush Or other humidity-related problems?
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Is anyone aware of St. Croix possibly reconsidering their decision to discontinue blank sales? I really miss having access to their full line.
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Thank you for replying, Tom. I really like the GSB line for plugging — I fished a 120 _2_L for many years but wanted something a bit more able to handle 3 oz, but still be versatile enough to toss a 4.5” Slug-Go on a 3/8 oz jig head. The 2L whipped pencils adequately, but the 1L seems more powerful and stiffer.
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Does anyone have any experience fishing the Lamiglas GSB101LS, or fishing a custom from that blank (GSB 120 1L)? I wanted to get some feedback on its power and action while whipping pencils. I will not be cutting this blank. Thanks
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Sorry, Roger — I meant to imply that I know the sanded finish had to be re-coated, I was just asking if anyone found it best to use HB finish or LB finish as the final coat. Thanks, Norm — I will try those suggestions.
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Thank you Michael & Norman for your responses.
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When you find you have to sand Threadmaster HB to take out waves over a long sticker coating, do you find it best to apply a light coat of Threadmaster HB or LB over the sanded epoxy?
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Thanks for replying. I should have mentioned that this is a 10’ surf rod (Lamiglas GSB 1201L), and I’d be throwing up to 3 oz. I imagine the line speed is going to be rather fast...I’m wondering if a #20 stripper can choke that speed within 2’ of the spindle. I’m going to have to test-cast a few variations and check for the line loops being thrown beyond the stripper ring.
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Does anyone feel it is prudent to place a KL-H #25 stripper closer than 23” to the mid-spindle travel of a Van Staal 150, running 10# to 20# braid?
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I am looking for advice on a decorative wrap pattern featuring black and silver. Some pertinent info: • Wrap is for the space between the split grips (7.875” between winding checks) • Blank diameter is .620” to .580” • Matte black blank color (MHX Salmon & Steelhead) I couldn’t find many examples of black/silver decorative wraps so I’m a little stuck. Thank you
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Thank you, Norman. I contacted that business to ask if they happened to already have an image in stock. If not, I will submit a public domain image; or perhas have my brother (graphic designer) create one in gyotaku style — that might be pretty cool if it looks like gyotaku in such a small size.
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Thank you, Matthew. Do you know of a process or a business I can use that can convert that public image into a quality decal for a blank?
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I cannot seem to find a rod decal of an American shad. I know they aren’t the most popular fish for sport but I do love building rods for shad on steelhead/salmon blanks, and I would love to add a decal. Anyone have any ideas where I could look or what I might try?
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That is really neat, Roger. I wish I could roll the lathe bed as well but I commonly work on 9'-11' 1-piece surf rods so it isn't feasible. I think if I leave 2" in front of the bed and just enough room behind the bed for the thread carriage I could get away with a 17"-18" bench. I'll put a shelf above the carriage for stuff.
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This is all great information — thank you all. Sounds like it’s 9” from the bench top to the rod; do you guys commonly place your elbows on the bench to occasionally steady your hands? If so, I probably have to account for some bench space in front of the bed.
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Thank you both. Sounds like a bench approximately 24" wide is a good choice.
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ...which REnzetti bed are you getting, ther emight be > a difference between the new and old style... I was planning on getting a new Craftsman, with the carriage that rolls on the underside of the bed.
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Hello, Can someone please tell me the distance from the front of the rod bed to the rear of the 8-spool carriage? I am building a bench against the wall to (eventually) support a Renzetti rod lathe and I'm curious about how much bench depth I actually need. Thank you in advance, Eric
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Thank you gentlemen. There is a door in the rod room to a 10' x 5' Seal/Paint/Tying Room. There's an airbrush spray booth in there that is vented to the outside, and it has it's own HEPA-filtered air draw that does not pass through the Rod Room. I will have my fly-tying materials in there as well to keep those particles out of the Rod Room. On the other side of the long wall of the rod ro
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Hello all, My rod room is in the basement of the cndo I bought a few years ago. This section of the basement is unfinished with exposed overhead insulation and concrete walls/floor. Needless to say dust has been a real problem. I am working on finishing the rod room and I want to be sure to take dust control into consideration. The room will be fully sheet-rocked and made airtight as pos
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No, but I'll check them out -- thank you.
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I can't seem to find a domestic retailer who sells some Fuji guides I need (TLDBSGs and a certain size MN top). Can anyone point me in the right direction for ordering from Japan or perhaps a domestic supplier who might carry the TLDBGs? Thanks, Eric
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