I did it a little different. Overwrapped the label with silk and coated with epoxy when I epoxied the rest of the threads.
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Inuse these:
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I do not know if I am the first to buy them, anyway I pair if them will soon be shipped to me in Norway. looking forward to try the them.
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I have glued a reelseast with Rod Bond epoxy. I wish to make a little change to the rod. Will heat like boiling water or heatgun losen the the metal parts glued with Rod Boond?
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I have. The labels look fine, however the epoxy tend to lift the corners or edges while curing. I have tried to wrap the corners with threads, it helps. On my next build I will cover the whole label with silk thread, to make sure there isno lifting. I have tried to cover the label with CP, but I does not help.
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It is actually a fly reelseat with wood insert. Actually the center of metal part is slightly off center. Actually, I am the only person seeing it. I wish to have it perfect. Thanks for the answers.
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Can you use heat or boiling water to loose metal parts glued with U-40 Rod Bond? Or is there another way to loosen the parts?
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I prefer to do it afterwards. The cork thickness around inlet is very thin and may crack while shaping. Secondly if the cork os slightly off center on the mandrel when starting, the inlet will be too.
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Out of my own Experiences : My bottle with generation 4 was stopped at the @#$%& distribution center. According to US laws it is not allowed to be shipped by air.
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It is good idea to do a test wrap and coat with epoxy . The thread might contain silicone "lubrication"
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Another option:
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First, congratulation with a great blank. I think you have gotten many good answers here. For my my winter project here in Norway I bought two 7,6 CTS blanks, one Affinity X and one glass 3wt. The glass rod, I wish to make a into something special. First I wished to to have genuine nickel reel seat. I after buying one , I found too heavy, heavier than blank itself. At the moment I have two choi
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No problems with the recoils. I will recommend the black pearl finish. I I am no expert but would no worry about recoils and salt, but the potential salt build up and the effect on the threads. I find the Pearl recoil tip top a bit heavy and you will save a little weight by finding another brand tip top, maybe more than skipping two part epoxy. Another thing, recoils require a bit longer wraps d
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I have build a few flyrods with genuine nickel silver reelseat. The pure nickelsilver seats are much heavier than their plated counterpart. My question is : How durable is the planting over time. This time I Am building a three weight and the nickel silver reelseat is as heavy as the blank. I know the weight is the bottom of the rod and does not affect the performance. I wish to have a light rod,
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I about to wrap a rod with invisible wraps. I wish to have red or brown translucent trim band. What kind of thread color, silk or nylon, do you use? Is silk or nylon thread prefered for the trim band?
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What do you guys do when you glue the cork rings together to make a grip on ha a steel rod in the middle. Do you wax the metal, so it is not glued together with cork and makes it possible to retract after the epoxy/glue has hardened?
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One of the reasons Snake Brand guides are light is beacuse they have smaller and lower loops than most other guides, and the foot is shorter (but wider) compared to other snake guides.
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I check with my caliper and it is 1.06 mm or 0.042.5
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An idea might be to buy and only use the top ring : . It has very thin diameter and fly rod tip
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Thanks for all the answers.
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The blank has two fine reinforcing strips of Toray carbon fibre wrapped under tension in a cross-weave ‘X’ pattern before as a top layer and I was afraid of weakening or harming these strips.
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For the first time I finished rod from an unsanded blanks (or at least partly sanded). The rough surface made it hard to pack A- thread. I managed to do some nice wraps, without glitches, but it was a lot of work. It might have been easier with doing invisible wraps or using C or D thread, I presume. Is there any trick for wrapping blanks with a raw partly sanded surface?
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I have only glued cork rings with LF. it seems as if it penetrates into the cork when you put the rings under pressure and makes a strong bond with no little or no spill. I doubt you can get the grip off without destroying it once harden, but I am not 100% sure. I put a cork fighting butt in boiling water and boiled for 5 min. The LF joints did not slip and the boiling water did not have any e
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I caught a close 30 pound northern pike on the xngp 9 weight, a friend of mine the same size on the seven weight xngp. We bothe use the 3 weight for dries he prefer the slower 8 foot and I the faster 7,9. My friend uses quite a few rods made from their burgunder colored blanks. I do not own any of them , according to him and what I have tried they are good . My friend is an eager rodbuilder and h
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They are popular among those who build their rods in Norway. Their service is good and so are their blanks.Generally I rank them among the best blanks out there. I have´ tried them from 3-12 weight both their green blanks, XNGP and their unpainted blanks. You have a lot of blanks to chose from some slow, some moderate and fast action rods. As I have heard their their replacement policy is g
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REC is the only ones that hold their colour in saltwater (from my experience). Hopkins and Halloway (Seymo) DLC will wear inside the guide so you will see the chrome plating after a while, only cosmetic though.
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Juice from a lemon.
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I had the same problem as you,with edges on two rods. What I did one rod was cutting the edge with razor blad and put on so much epoxy ( actually two three coats) to make sure I did not hit the decal when sanding afterwards, and when the decals was covered I sanded away some epoxy until I got a round fine surface and applied epoxy a last time. On the second rod I skipped cutting with the razo
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Double posting
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