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Results 1 - 30 of 280
8 months ago
Chad Huderle
Simply put, and not looking for an argument here, but a Bic is hardly an open flame. If you drop a Bic the flame is out before it hits the floor. If you bump it off your work area, you pick it up. Every other item you mentioned will stay lit until physically turned off or blown out. I'm advocating for common sense the safest way to accomplish the simple task of removing fuzzies or bubbles.
Forum: rodboard
8 months ago
Chad Huderle
If your goal is to remove fuzzies or gently warm epoxy to remove bubbles then there is no reason to use a dangerous alcohol burner. They're nothing but an accident waiting to happen. All that is necessary is a simple Bic lighter held to the side of the fuzzy or epoxy. No need to hold the flame directly underneath what you are trying to heat. Hold the lighter to the side of the wrap and the ra
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
Chad Huderle
What Michael is referring to is a method of wrapping guides on a baitcasting rod where the running guides are placed on the bottom of the blank...just like a spinning rod. This is often referred to as a spiral wrap but there are other names for it also such as Robert's wrap or acid wrap. This is the only real way you'll prevent rod tip twist on a baitcaster...even if it is built with guides o
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
Chad Huderle
I always have put hook keepers on my builds. When I started using rod socks a couple years ago I began to experience problems with the hook getting tangled in the rod sock mesh. I began using the frame from the first guide as my hook keeper. It tends to keep the hook aligned and positioned next to the rod rather than protruding from the side like with a hook keeper. I still get a tangle from
Forum: rodboard
2 years ago
Chad Huderle
18lb., thank you James.
Forum: rodboard
2 years ago
Chad Huderle
James, what is the density of Batson's foam cores? 6lb?
Forum: rodboard
2 years ago
Chad Huderle
I don't think they'll be a consensus on this. I mention it to the customer and I let them decide so I've built some with and some without. I think most builders would agree. Maybe that's the consensus right there. :)
Forum: rodboard
2 years ago
Chad Huderle
Done lots of them them way Tom just described. Be mindful that if you bore them out too much and the acrylic is somewhat translucent, the urethane foam core may be noticeable through the acrylic.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Chad Huderle
No intent to hi-jack thread but want to let others know my experience with CA. Did a bunch of grips and handles using CA a couple years ago and I thought it was great. Quick dry, multiple coats and handle ready to go right away. Found out after a year or two that the finish can crack badly, very badly. One person I know who is a pen turner has had the same thing happen to some of his work a
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Chad Huderle
I've had to cover wood grips with epoxy once and awhile. The best method for me is to mix the epoxy by hand for two minutes( I use Threadmaster, your mixing time with another epoxy may vary) apply it to the handle while it's spinning on the lathe, maybe 200 to 300 RPM, once completely covered stop the lathe, using your brush move the epoxy horizontally left to right while slowly hand rotati
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Chad Huderle
I would just use my Dremel and remove 1 or 2 thread widths from the tip of the rod.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Chad Huderle
Doug, Mark Blabaum shared with me a method that he uses for finishing wood grips and I've found it to work extremely well for carbon grips too. I've modified his process a little for my use but it's still very similar. The process uses a product called Enduro Pre-Cat water based urethane. It's applied with a Preval sprayer while spinning on a lathe at low speed, say 500rpm. You need to
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Chad Huderle
Nate, I adhere them to a 3/4" metal disc and then that is inlaid an 1/8" or so. (Hint, the metal disc is a US penny with one side sanded flat.) :)
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Chad Huderle
I use a 3/4" paper punch and try make my own. Print the image/logo that I need, punch it, spray it with fixative, use adhesive spray to adhere it and then a small amount of epoxy to protect it. Works great and can be as custom and you want it. That's how I do all mine.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Chad Huderle
Welcome to rod building William. Based upon your detailed questions it's obvious you're done a considerable amount of research prior to your upcoming first build. However. the biggest thing I would recommend before you get started on that build is to take an old rod and practice. Wrap some guides, do some trim bands, find a way to apply epoxy that works for you, work on static testing to p
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Chad Huderle
Just an observation but the printer you listed, MFC-J8700w, is an ink jet printer. But you say you're using Laser jet paper so that may be your problem. Get a hold of ink jet waterslide decal paper and that should clear up your problem.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Chad Huderle
Jon, head over to Michaels and get a 3/4" paper punch. That's the exact size of a penny.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Chad Huderle
That may actually have been Fishhawk chestnut. I don't keep track of the colors for each build but I believe it was chestnut.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Chad Huderle
LOL, David, don't sell the color brown short! :) It looks pretty nice on the Immortal blank if you don't use color preserver.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Chad Huderle
What I've been doing is using Riley's preformed cores which are 3/8" i.d. I then a put a Forecast shim on the lathe and carefully sand it down to 3/8" o.d. Then after I've shaped the Riley core I epoxy the Forecast shim into the center of the core. That gets me very close to the o.d. of most ice rod blanks. From there just use a little masking tape to build up the blank and you've
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Chad Huderle
Maybe you already are aware of this but Mudhole has it, but notes that price is not available.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Chad Huderle
Good points Michael. You're right on target concerning the background showing through with clear-backs. I solved that by underwrapping with white nylon thread. I've come to like the way the light glistens off the thread even with a decal over it. Other colors can be used depending on what's such as metallics. The pearl thread that reflects the hints of blue/green/pick can make a great underw
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Chad Huderle
I never took a liking to vinyl, just me I guess. I've always used clear-back waterslides. The paper I use is very thin so edges are no concern. I'm REALLY picky about edges showing so these water slides are my go-to for most builds. I do have another process I use when applicable but it's more of a heat transfer process and no paper is invloved at all.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Chad Huderle
Good advice Michael, I've used an Epson Artisan 710 for a number of years now using only factory ink packs from Epson. I don't leave my gear in direct sunlight but I haven't noticed any fading either and no negative reports from my customers. Even rods I built seven years ago, when I first started building, are looking good. Some of those were on an older HP printer using only factory ink.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Chad Huderle
Check out any Salvation Army or Goodwill type stores in your area. They often have a few fishing rods available. Maybe a friend has an old Ugly Stick they're willing to part with.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Chad Huderle
Thanks Lou. I was thinking the Tich guide feet visible over that particular colored blank may look really nice. Hence, the desire for the threadless look. This particular blank does lend itself to some really nice color possibilities.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Chad Huderle
Thanks Roger. But to get to my specific question, you haven't tried wrapping with flouro to see the resulting "look"?
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Chad Huderle
I'm going to do a build on one of the Rainshadow RX8 blanks with the titanium finish. Was considering doing the threadless look using nylon white or silk. I haven't done this before so searched the forum and found several different posts on thinning with acetone or dna. One comment said not to go for the threadless look with mono line because it'll gives off a strong silver sheen. Has a
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Chad Huderle
The guides will include a direction sheet showing the stripper guide at 19.5" from the reel, the transition guide at 30.5" and the first running guide at 39 7/8". No need to vary the distances on these, they work quite well. Running guides are best place using the static method.
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Chad Huderle
You can make them yourself if you want. Go to a craft store like Michaels and get a 32oz can of casting resin, catalyst and Pearl Ex powdered pigments. You can create many different color combinations. I use various dimensions of PVC for molds. Here's an example of what is possible.
Forum: rodboard
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