I never add weight to a build. For one thing, I do value aesthetics, not over function, but this just doesn't fit with my values.
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If the room is at normal living conditions, suitable for humans, no "drying tents" or other devices are necessary. Just let them turn at a few RPM's and everything will be fine. If not hard in the morning, just wait a few more hours. Test by checking the epoxy mix you used. Not the rod. This is not rocket science. I've built a lot of rods and never have used a "drying tent
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I'm like Roger, same experience with that type tensioner. A problem with the tensioners that load the ends of the spools is that labels which are not really smooth can affect the tension, giving uneven tension. I submit if the thread (not talking metallic which I like Roger just use for inlays/trim) cannot accept the disc tensioner, try some different thread, like Gudebrod, Fuji, Pro Wrap, and
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Titanium plated, not solid titanium alloy. While they may be superior in corrosion performance, likely not any lighter than SS. I have not used them, never even knew about them. REC RSFX are only a little more expensive, probably less than $10 a rod, so I'll stick with them. Anglers Workshop/Lure Parts Online is a good company, for sure.
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Thanks, David, sorry I got confused. They sound like very similar blanks. Interesting comments on power in light of my recent suggestion that we correlate subjective descriptors with CCS numbers. Then got trashed for suggesting it. If we had that correlation we might avoid "Fast actions" that measure 29 AA. SJ 541-1 64 29.1 AA 5.84 ERN 1 piece 1.22 oz. Ultra light Fast I t
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I should point out that in my opinion one does not want to go any lower in power than the DS 6100 if good-sized fish are likely. I have used it for smallies and when the fish are about 3 pounds and up, i'd like more power. It's called medium power, but not what I would call medium power. I think I remember David Baylor commenting on this blank in another thread-I think he characterized it as a
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go to the CCS Data Log thread and click on the link in the first line " quick access" Click on the CCS Data Base button at the bottom to open the data base. Look at NFC DS 6100. Don't be fooled by the "medium" power, it's about 300 grams. There are other blanks there around 300 grams or a little less with slower actions if you prefer slower. I think the 6100 would be fin
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Roger, Google Images has a lot of images of them.
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I think it would feel clumsy. It's significantly longer than what I use. I make my own and use three half inch cork rings and two 1/8 contrasting rings + 1/4 rubberized on the end, so about 2 inches.. Seems about right to me.
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I have an old wire guide about 1/2 inch, but it's not an Aetna. It is of soldered construction. If you strike out and want to see what it looks like email me your cell number and I'll send a photo. No charge if you want it.
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We are now over two months in on this thread which has turned out to be one of the most viewed that I can remember. “Sensitivity” is obviously of high interest to rod builders. It started as a direct challenge of the opinion that True Natural Frequency, the only easy, inexpensive, practical, and objective method for builders to measure the dynamic response of blanks and rods, was an objective m
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Try this business:
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But not waxed dental floss, right?
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If you are considering rebuilding old spinning rods it's easy to put (tape if necessary) a baitcasting reel onto them to see how you like their power and action as baitcasters. I think most don't really understand how low powered a rod has to be to be a good BFS rod that casts well. It's sort of a tight spot because for casting I think you would really like an ERN less than 10, but for handling
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Regarding the comment on the ridges making it harder. Some builders agree with you and some don't seem to have trouble with them. I find them a complication that has no plus side, so I don't wrap blanks with ridges any more. I found I had to burnish and pack more with ridges, and sliding nail knots into position was more difficult than with smooth blanks.
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Objective data is nice, but it will never replace feel. Couldn't resist, David. regards, Mick
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And Michael? The cast where you say you almost lost the rod overboard because it torqued out of your hand? You didn't happen to forget to disengage the spool on that cast, did you? <grin> Long time ago. I don't think so , but might have. :-) Yes, balance, IMHO, is part of ergonomics. And also, IMHO, talking about balance without a reel on the rod is a waste of time. Unless you pla
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Something to remember, most of us do leave a fuzzy now and then, or a stickup off the wrap. Fuzziies usually can be fixed by holding a butane lighter flame next to, not under the fuzzy. Usually it will burn off. For stickups, since I use lite viscosity wrap epoxy, I usually just epoxy over them, then after the first coat has cured, cut them off with a sharp Exacto blade or razor blade. Then a
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Yes Daryl, but you never stated the methodology you used to get YOUR dimension. Or if you did, I missed it. All I saw was 10 inches. What Tom and Norman are trying to convey is the method by which the dimension is determined, and it's about ergonomics based on the rod user. His dimensions and preferences. I often advise builders who ask this question to pattern the rod after one that the u
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If you are breaking A thread it's too tight. It should be snug, but it should allow you to slightly move the guide when you are through wrapping to properly adjust the alignment. I suggest you keep practicing with A. Lower the tension and give it a another try. I just don't have the patience for decorative wraps after trying just one. Get comfortable with simple wraps, then move into so
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Looks to me like the hand is in contact with the sleeve that is used with this seat. If you want no sleeve and only the blank exposed try ECSM or ACSM. I like ACSM.
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It is normal for the colors to get somewhat muted when sanded, but you also could be seeing some contamination of the natural cork pieces with the blue in between the pieces. Try to clean it with alcohol to see if it helps. Cork4Us has a liquid that enhances the beauty of the burl somewhat, but if you really want it to pop clean it after your final sanding then apply coating (which will change
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Thanks to Chris Catignani for convincing me that I can do the first type objective testing to prove whether or not TNF and sensitivity correlate. As soon as the weather breaks and I have easier access to my rods I will do the testing and come to a conclusion.
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There are two aspects to sensitivity testing. First is to compare without regard to absolute numbers between two blanks to determine which is the more sensitive. Which is what this procedure will do. Second is to obtain a single, absolute, number which characterizes the sensitivity. Like the AA in CCS. Every rod which has the number 77 is the same, or very very close , to having the same act
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>>I build only fly rods and have built 100's. I have not used a double foot snake guide in 15 years! For rods up to 6-7 weight I use single foot wire guides (available in two weights) and above those I use single foot minima's.. If you chose to use single foot guides, be sure to employ the locking loop. Good advice, IMHO
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I don't know what a single foot snake guide is. Snake guides that I know have two feet. Single foot wire guides work well, and make a lot of sense to me compared to snakes.
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Why not consider single foot wire fly guides. They have to be the lightest and they work fine. The only "advantaage" I've heard on snakes is that they pass knots and tangles better than single foot. I've used a rod with single foot guides quite a bit and have had no problems. If you want to know exactly how the weight of guides is or is not affecting a rod's dynamics then test it
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I've always used contact cement, not sure of the brand, but no problems ever.
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Never had a line stacking problem with simple spiral with first guide at the top, zero degrees. They cast just fine, easy to set up.
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David, regarding: "But isn't it a bit hypocritical to demand objective data to prove your belief wrong, when you can't provide objective data to prove it right?" No it is not . Aleks challenged the my opinion of the validity of TNF as an objective measure of his definition of sensitivity AND committed to providing data. All I'm trying to do is get him to deliver on HIS word.
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