I built the CB704 and have not been impressed. It feels heavy and slow in spite of its not being that heavy. I much prefer graphite.
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I used Flex Coat for many years, never noticed if it could be dented or not. But it did function just fine, I don't remember ever having a problem other than one rod which would get hazy looking after being left in a boat overnight in the rain. Recoated the guide wrap and fixed it indicating I had not done it right the first time. I don't think any of the wrap "epoxies" are "roc
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I don't know what guidelines you are using , but the KR software WHEN USING HIGH FRAME KR GUIDES, is excellent. I don't even test cast any more. 20 inches makes sense. Put the first guide where the software says to put it, the second, and the third, likewise. Don't worry about "progressive." No one will notice. Then place the running guides according to the two line static load t
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I build more like Patrick with the guide choices. I set the spacing using a two line static load test rather than charts. I see no need for the tiptop to be a different size from the runners, but the difference mentioned is so small it won't help or hurt anything. I recommend doing locking loops for single foot guides.
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For spin go to AnglersResource.net, link in left margin, hit the "menu" and go to their software. I really like their KR arrangements, so if you want to go there use the KR software. It has a lot to do with what line you are planning + what size reel. I use the KR software and it really works well. for the reduction guides. I arrange the running guides using the two line stress tes
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"Now it's time to move to open water." Will be easier than ice.
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Since that guide is way back off the tip, closer to the hand, its effect on rod function (weight/sensitivity/TNF/ballance) is most likely insignificant.
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Best is a subjective rating based not only on the blanks but on the expectations of the evaluator. For example, best toughness? best sensitivity? longest casting? lowest weight? nicest finish? best warranty? glossy vs matte, painted vs not painted? best customer service? In my opinion, you get about what you pay for in blanks. The more expensive they are, the higher the power to weig
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He was sent to "forum jail." I'll check on him.
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A pipe style seat mounted up-locking in size 17 or 18 will come pretty close. Just won't have the taper. The cork off the front would be easy to make, and everything behind the seat is simple.
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I go light, so not glass. Graphite can be built in any action that glass can be built with, and will be lighter. I don't think the faster recovery speed of carbon causes lost fish. Just an opinion. Like all the others you will see. Different strokes for different folks.
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Wow, Herb. How great it is to have someone else recognize that threads and the epoxy form a composite structure (think plywood.) And that being able to move guides before epoxy indicates there is something strength-wise missing at that stage. I also know that when I try to take a guide off when I have not used CP, it can be VERY tough. CP to some degree interupts/disrupts the bonding, bu
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Sounds like 3 + 1 KR concept is almost cone of flight using tall reduction guides?
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I think 24 hours may be a little too soon to stress guides the way it sounds like you did. I've noticed Gen 4 low build being not tacky but not that hard at 24 hours. Give them another day and find out how the epoxy feels. If it's not bonding to the blank it sounds like possible contamination. I have had zero problems with Gen 4 low build.
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I think John makes a good point. Unless there is damage, if it were going to break it probably already would have.
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Let me phrase my opinion this way: I have never had a high frame/bullseye/micro setup that disappointed. I agree that the line is VERY important to the system.
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OK, everyone, unload on me, but I really don't think all these minor guide changes/high belly/4.5 vs 5/ etc make a hill of beans difference. I just went onto the water and cast a rod I made with Alps Hi IVguides, no high belly, and I was amazed at how far it cast a lure. I expect part of its success is the line. Premium braid. But this reel and line didn't perform as well on another rod.
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I remember the shock ring on guides, now. Memory refreshed. I guess I didn't realize they were used on tiptops, but it makes sense. thanks again.
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Thanks!
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What is a tiptop shock ring?
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My earlier response, favoring the old St Croix shape and size, was based on the assumption that the rod would be split grip. Probably not a good assumption.
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I have had some epoxied-on tip-tops that did not readily come off with heat. It was a real crap shoot as to whether I would get them off without sacrificing the last 1/2 inch of the blank. I'm sticking with hot melt that is designed for rod-building. Have had no trouble with them coming off in the tropics. One can get a little more assurance by just extending the wrap epoxy up onto the tube o
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I just built a similar rod with Fuji KLH 20H, 10H, 5.5M, then size 5 (or 5.5, cannot remember) runners, KB's and KT's. I am using a size 35 Cabelas reel which is a Daiwa, and it's bigger than a Shimano Stradic 4000. The rod casts very well with 35 pound braid.
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Thank you, Tom.
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Please explain 100% solids. It's hard to visualize two bottles of clear liquids being "solids." thanks
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To find out its power and strength measure its CCS numbers.
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"I'm surprised that anyone thought that any 100% solids epoxy would lose weight once cured." I'm not surprised. We have seen the posts about epoxy drying, drying tents, drying motors, drying drying drying. If something dries it's logical that it would lose some weight. What so many don't seem to understand is that epoxy does not dry, it cures through a chemical reaction. In chemic
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No, it does not. When the chemical reaction (it doesn't "dry") takes place there is no mass lost. Here are the numbers from an experiment with FC wrap epoxy, measured carefully but with two different syringes of the same volume. Pan with old hardened epoxy and a mixing stick: ..231 ounces Plus 2 cc's of resin: .309 oz. Plus 2 cc's of hardener: .399 oz. 2 minutes of mixi
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If you have a drill press you can adapt it to turn ramps out of cork or reel seat arbors, If you want details, email me. I've never liked epoxy ramps, but it can be done about like you suggest. I have done it with gel epoxy. Another possibility is to mix some cork dust with gel epoxy and fill the defect, then use a winding check if I'm interpreting the void correctly.
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"clearly some weight is lost in drying," Maybe. But it doesn't dry, it cures, and molecules of one tie up with molecules of the other. The heat may lose a little mass, but very little. So if there is any weight change, I'll bet no one can measure it. It would be easy to check, just put some epoxy into a pan, mix it, weigh it, let it set, and weigh it again. I have some old epoxy
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