Faztek has the bed material for a 3' section on 3" wide extrusion. Used sewing machine motor at the thrift Store for $10 (you will have to buy the whole machine, but the foot pedal speed control usually comes with it.) 3" chuck from Grizzly, Enco or Taig. The remainder of the parts are usually available at hardware stores.
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Congrats Tom. Good luck with the project!
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Thanks folks. I have some Titebond III here.
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will be using lamarcomposite cork Tom
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For grip inays do you folks use? I've looked at some of the eliptical designs as well as other designs and was wondering what adhesive was used to gloe up the different colors before turning. The above link is an example, by paul rimbeck
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I believe that the kits are less expensive than sourcing the components out yourself is that the kits , many times, contain lesser quality materials than you might order yourself. Keep that in mind. The kits with the lesser quality stuff might not be bad stuff, mind you, but you would probably order better if you wat to for not a lot of money extra.
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Mike, I missed the Blanks page. Thanks. The ST Croix and ZX are very close with their numbers.
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Mike, Thanks for the tip. Wouldn't you know it there are no Z-Axis listed and the St Croix does not have the configuration I'm looking at either. Such is life! Dave
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Phil, Thanks. I expect that will be the case with most if not all of the fast action blanks.
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Bill, Nice stuff there according to the reviews..But no two piece 5 wt on the web right now. The five rivers blanks have gotten some nice reviews
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Go to an archery supply store if you cannot find the amber ferrule cement in the rod supply store. higher melting point than the white stuff and it holds very well.
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I knew that. I hadn't given St Croix a thought until I started doing more searches tonight. I found them just before I responded the last time. And you have to have blank in hand to use the common cents system.
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Thanks Tom. That is mainly my reason for the inquiry. I've been at this for a long time, but mostly for a few friends and myself. The Loomis SCIV might fill the bill for a fast 2 piece five weight at a more reasonable price. I know there are a number of less expensive blanks out there, but most are rated moderately fast and I already have that. The other variable is the ratings game. One gu
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Bill I've ben in contact with Karry Batson. he has been kind enough to reply to my questions. I am looking at their Standard RX7 in 5 wt. Very Affordable, but I've never handled the blank. The Batson RX7+ or the RX8+ would get the nod from me but there are no two piece rods in that lineup.
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Not a two piece in the lot, Ellis. I guess they took two piece out of the line
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Was looking at a Sage Z-Axis 5 weight the other day at a fly shop and ......well..you know the drill. I now wanna build one. But I don't want to spend $315 for the blank and I don't want a 4 / 5 piece rod. Anybody know if there is an equivilant blank out there in two piece? Most of the faster action blank makers have gone to travel rods and Kerry Batson tells me they are no exception. I can find
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Don, An old codger by the name of Thom Rivell, who taught me the basics some years ago was actually ahead of his time. He once wrapped a flyrod blank complettely with thread and finished. I don't remember the blank specs but ir started out as a fast, stiffer fly rod. When he was done the thing was like a noodle. Now mind you that the action of the blank was still the same since he did not c
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Well, sounds like research has paid off......no negatives so far!
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Fiberglass rods are a diferent ball game. They are hard to break under most circumstances barring , of course, damage to the blank. Fly rods seem to be designed for the stress of the "overbending" we all seem to do. You hear about the breakage in the high modulus graphite spinners and casting rods, and sometimes with the composites. I have broken a factory Penn and It went about 6
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Man...................that's cold enough to freeze penguins!
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Thanks men. I have a rod to build for a charity function and don't want to spend a bunch of money but don't want to build them crap either.
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High Sticking is indeed taking the rod past vertical. Understand though, that you can exceed the 90 degree angle in other ways as you pointed out with the analogy of the fish under the boat.
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Any body been using the graphite ones that come in colors ? Seems like a good deal.
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The new more sensitive graphite rods won't tolerate fighting angles past vertical. The more sensitive the rod the more you have to watch your angles. I know we see the guys on the fishing shows do it all the time but they get their rods from the mfg and many don't pay for them or get them ar reduced rates. I personally try not to take the rod over 60 degrees from horizontal to the water.
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Not a big deal. Jason. I like the single foot guides myself, but I have one speced out for snakes as that is what the guy wants. I always order at least one extra guide in case the static test dictates more than the spacing charts call for. Dave
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So fat the best way I've found is to take a dressmaker's tape with metric markings on it. Wrap the tape around the blank uintil it touches itself and note the measurement where it touches. Then from the end of the cork tape measure this reading down the tape to the opposite side and make a mark. Straightedge between the corner and the mark and you have your angle. Works every time. -------
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Well Russ, I've been doing this for 20 years all told. So I've got most of the stuff INEED> (is that really possible?) I guess not. Looking into building a rod lathe. I still wrap by hand as I'm not in building a few rods a day. Besides, I don't have the disposable income to have $8000 in tools and gear! lol*
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Russ, If you're going to take the time to build one, You might as well take ten minutees and do the test. After all is is a custom build. Like using an un-cushioned reel seat on a custom build. Just shouldn't be done even though you can. Dave
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Darby, Guide placement formulas and charts are just guides and will get you started, but you should always do a static test
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E-mail Sent. Thanks for the head's up. Dave
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