The easiest thing I’ve found that works for me is tying a clinch knot with 6# mono and securing the guide. Make a loop around my finger, spin it around 5-6 times, run the tag thru the loop and into the second loop. Tighten the knot up and slip the loop over the rod blank and tighten it down on the guide.
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Norm!
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I do appreciate all of the input! Thanks!
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Thanks fellas! Tom, any suggestions as to what size for double foots? Are they the same height as singles? Never had any double foot spinning guides in my possession.
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I am going to build a salt water rod for myself. I have very little experience with saltwater fishing and especially building a rod for it. What I have is a NFC MB-7108-1. 94” Mag-medium 12-25# line. I’m mostly anticipating the NE for stripers or SE for reds. I’ve built a ton of light fresh water spinning rods with single foot guides. I have zero experience with double foot spinning guides and si
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Most of the rods I build are light freshwater rods on NFC blanks. Almost all of them start with a 16, 6 Minima with size 4 runners and a Fuji SIC tip top. I’ve tried adding an extra high frame guide but it made absolutely no difference whatsoever aside from added weight. I did recently get a few 12, 5, 3 sets in Minimas, but haven’t wrapped any rods with them yet. If you’re anywhere near Waukesha
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I too have had Gudebrod metallic blues fade quickly.
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think you could get just as deep using gel-spun > braid with your dipsy diver. That would make guide > selection relatively easy? There is something about the harmonics of SS wire that makes it more productive than braid on dipsys. I have found the same thing with a downrigger ball set up with a wir
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I take a length of 6# mono and tie a regular clinch knot loosely around my finger, slip it over the blank and secure the guide to the blank. Trim the ends short to not interfere with the wrapping. Once the thread is on the foot enough, cut the mono off. I feel it holds more securely than the bands.
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So with the craziness of the world right now, I don’t have any work going on and plenty of time to fish. I built a new rod for myself a few weeks ago and decided to take it out for its maiden trip. Put on a brand new Stradic CI4 and new line yesterday morning. Slipped it into a nylon rod sleeve and headed to Lake Michigan for some spring cohos. On the water I keep my good rods tucked on a ledge o
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I only build rods for my own enjoyment and never really made any $$$ on any of them. When I’m building one for myself, I already know what I expect it to be like. The part I like about building for others is they have no idea how nice it will actually be when they use it. They’re always amazed at the initial appearance but then they put it to use and I hear how much they liked actually using it,
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For securing the guide to the blank while being wrapped, I take a length of 6# monofilament and tie a regular clinch knot loosely around my finger. Tighten the knot itself up but still with a loop, then cinch it down on the guide to the blank. It actually works quite well. I’ve never used the bands, but I have miles of monofilament in my house and it works. As for supporting the blank, I don’
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I don’t have an answer for strength on metallics but I have wrapped guides on with a nylon thread, put a coat of finish on, then over wrapped with rayon thread just for a specific color. Rayon thread has no strength and was purely used for the color in those cases. You could do the same with the metallic thread, although I do believe just about any metallic thread has sufficient enough strength t
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I’ve been building rods since my dad taught me when I was 12 years old, 36 years ago now. So while not a “pro” builder, I do pride myself in making quality rods with quality products. In the late 80’/ early 90’s I built several rods on Loomis blanks and always found them to be high quality. Being in WI, I developed a fondness for WI built St Croix blanks from the early 90’s on. With St Croix not
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When I’m applying epoxy and it’s cold, I place a full soda can in luke warm water for 20 minutes or so to warm it up. Dry thoroughly and clean the bottom off with alcohol. Then put the epoxy in the “bowl” on the bottom of the can. As long as it is just warm and not hot, I haven’t ever had a problem with it setting up faster than I would expect. I tried it with a full beer can but it really ma
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Why not just build the mistake rod and give it to the kid along with the rod you’ll get paid for? You might only break even on the deal but it is a kids rod and can only be beneficial down the road business-wise. We aren’t taking high end components here.
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Just curious if Threadmasters “One” one part finish would be a good solution? Or permagloss? I haven’t personally had fish eyes, just curious if a non- 2 part epoxy finish would work. I understand the part about still needing to sand after to get back to level, just wonder if those finishes would cover the contaminate.
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I appreciate the responses fellas! How about Phenix blanks?
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My dad taught me to build rods when I was 12 in the early 80’s. I generally build 3-4 a year for myself and a few select others. I’d guess that for over 25 of those years 100% of my rods have been on St. Croix blanks. I would say I have had some loyalty with them being a WI company and as far as I am concerned, always had very good quality. I feel it’s time for me to explore new avenues as they h
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I was referring to 1-1 thread finish. Flex Coat to be exact.
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I put a PG top coat over epoxy finish on CF handles as a protective coating. Just a few weeks ago I was in kind of a rush to finish a rod and was applying PG to a handle with a less than 24 hour old coat of epoxy. I was about 1/2 way into it when I realized what I was doing may not be the smartest move considering how PG is. I noticed the PG seemed like it was cutting into the epoxy but no notice
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It isn’t particularly easy but I have shaved the backside down with a razor blade.
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What product is best to tint PG?
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I have had very good results using a piece of 6# mono, tying a regular clinch knot and tightening it down on the guide.
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Re: Retiring rods. I have twin SCII's that I built around 1990. My brother would only fish when I was on fish good somewhere. He wasn't one to go on a seeking mission. When he did fish with me, he always used a specific one of those 2 rods. Next month will be 15 years since he died at 26. I was going to cut that rod and place it with him. Instead I chose to hang on to it and remember him when I u
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Well, I didn't break it this weekend but it was creaking every time I cast. Caught a bunch of nice walleyes too.
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Twisting seems entirely possible. This is a spinning rod but that section is thin and where most of the bend is. I'd venture to guess that it's from casting cranks.
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I can say in all honesty that I don't recall any specific point where it would have been damaged. I know that nothing ever hit it and as I've had that happen before, I believe that type of hit causes a fracture and a fairly clean break. There really is no visible damage to the blank itself as far as a cut or ding or anything. This splinter starts out towards the tip as fine as frog hair and progr
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