roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Chris, > If you are having trouble with the eye bolts that > use for line guides, remove them and install > standard ceramic rod line guides. Just choose the > ones you want to use, Straighten the foot of the > guide, Remove the eye bolt, Drill a new hole that > is sized correctly for the
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Pre-molded kitchen counter top. epoxy is easy to chip up after set. Front edge raises slightly with rounder edge. comes in many colors. built mine in late 90's still like new.
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K-SUN PEARLABEL MAKER
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If you do more than 1 rod, look into getting a K-SUN PEARLABEL MAKER or weave it
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Tolo Mentes Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello! > > When I'm wrapping my guides to blank and adding > some trimms or in-lays (simple things) I notice > that sometimes some "visible problems" stay under > the thread. > > And today I was watching the MudHole video and saw > that they had the same problem. > &
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Christopher Zucker Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks, Roger. If my handwriting weren't atrocious > I'd go that route :) > > One quick coat of CP did protect the decal from > melting in some tests I did yesterday. However, I > found it difficult to get a nice even finish over > the length of it. It did look very nice on the >
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joel radding Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How do you repair about 3/4” of broken butt tip > underneath the female side of metal ferrule. It > looked like the end of ferrule cut the blank. Rod > is a fiberglass Heddon Pal 55 HDH. No offense to > the administrators but this site is hard to use > and many keys above “goto” don’t work on it
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Since you have set the criteria by saying "BTW, I'm not interested in gluing anything." that eliminates part of my method.
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i don't know how many rods you plan to build, but consider , one of the sponsors on this site.
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yep, but not ID like a person would think, which I think most interest is intended as to what size will pass the line or knots right?
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like guide ring size is OD of the ring, just opposite what one would think.
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Since I try to make my Color Change Weaves match, as close as I can, Mother Nature things, I want the CP to help me keep the selected spool color. There is a reason for all the different synthetic finishes out there for fishing rods so they stand up to the environment. So I wouldn't be using Varnishes unless you are trying to duplicate a historic item, and then I doubt a CP was used.
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make sure that each coat of CP is DRY before the next.
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Here is what I do. it may not be the "BEST" per some, but you may pick up something to improve your Method. Mixing cup: I use a stainless tapered one like condiments in a restaurant are served. Easy to scrape with my spatula. Easy to clean with a dry paper towel for reuse, mine are 30-40 years old. I have a double ended stainless spatula with narrow tip on one end and a wider one
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John Wright Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Well, > My students have there guides positioned on the > rods now and are starting to do the wrapping. > Next big question for them is what to cover the > wraps with. I have been doing some testing with > CP, Epoxy and Man O War Varnish on Madiera thread. > The results have not been very
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In October I had refilled a serious expensive MED from my Medical ins provider and it was sent by USPS. Going on two weeks and I hadn't gotten it yet. So checked on tracking and called the med company. They said it is in Chicago and out for delivery. I said wait a minute, "Out For Delivery" means the postal carrier has it and is on his ROUTE and is bringing it to my home/mail box which
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When first coat stops flowing. Have second coat well loaded on your brush so tacky first coat doesn't grab your brush.
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Have you considered number 3 with a color preserver between your fix and the epoxy?
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I remember Ralph's method, who was an epoxy genius, saying to use rod bond. He said to coat each surface of the cork ring then essentially scraping it off each surface causing almost a zero seam thickness then clamp together. My .02
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History of the two line method is a young Australian kid suggested this method back in the 1970's-80's I believe. run one line thru the guides with a very little wt on end to take up slack and a second line attached to fixed TIPTOP with a heavy weight on it.
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If you have a cell number that can receive texts i will forward you a picture of my weave I put on a fly rod.
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red 1839, eagle and anchor and perimeter 1672, world and rope and pennant 1803
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I started with a box with V's cut in it, then being a woodworker I make a Mahogany hand wrapper with Dove tail extension for longer rod support. Had a dryer made from an old BBQ rotisserie motor. Then I invested in a Power wrapper. I am so glad I did. Buy a "GOOD" one, don't buy a cheap one then you later have to spend redundant money to throw away the cheap chuck when you buy the "
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Many years ago, 40 - 50, It was suggested by someone that if you go to a place that sells wood dowels, to pick up a 3' dowel and grip it on one end and have someone pull down on the other end. You will soon learn what diameter feels most comfortable in your hand when stressed.
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20 or more years ago I had cracking and it was on a rod that hadn't been used. I think since it was a rush job to send to someone to show the weave. And because of that rush job, I used a little extra temp to help the cure faster. The cracking was across the stripper guide in front of the guide foot. It was a heavy rod 20-50lb and maybe .875 dia and there had been absolutely no flexing of it.
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Back during the marbling craze, saw several use rod marbling products that are used on rods.
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FROM LONG AGO SHARING IDEAS OF HOW I DID IT: osted by: Gary L. Rose (---.nas1.holland1.mi.us.da.qwest.net) Date: July 29, 2002 08:29PM Anyone know how to remove tip that has been glued on with five minute epoxy? Options: Reply•Quote•Follow Topic•Report Re: Remove tip Posted by: Chris Karp (---.detroit19rh16rt.mi.dial-access.att.net) Date: July 29, 2002 09:10PM Mask off the treaded
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I used single foot Titanium frame sic ceramic in past to cut weight and give me thin wall max opening and double foot stripper
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kerry, > I use the same method except with a slight > difference: > > I simply start with a heavy hook screwed into a > stud, so that it does not pull out. > > Then, take a heavy rubber band and attach it to > the tip top that you want to remove. > > Finally loop th
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secure your rod in your lathe. get a very strong rubber band (I use newspaper bundle rubber bands) and hook onto the tiptop using a piece of wire to isolate band from heat. Stretch out the rubber band keeping on the axis of the rod and attach to something. Now heat the tube at the tip end. the heat will migrate down the tube and just as soon as the epoxy softens, the rubber band will pull the tip
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