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Current Page: 1 of 91
Results 1 - 30 of 2707
3 days ago
Phil Erickson
Mark, you should try the regular Threadmaster, it is my daily go-to epoxy. The pot life is not as long as the Lite you have used, but then again, most lite versions are all longer then their regular versions. Maybe an additive? The one epoxy that does not get mentioned much, is Classic Coat. I tried it and found it to be quite good, in pot life, clarity, bubble clearing and leveling. Do not kno
Forum: rodboard
3 days ago
Phil Erickson
There is one cause of decal lifting that never seems to get mentioned, and that is, transferring oil from ones fingers to the adhesive side by handling it improperly. I have seen a number builders I know put their finger onto the adhesive, this is a NO-NO !
Forum: rodboard
3 days ago
Phil Erickson
I do as Herb mentions, however I just port it very slightly larger than the blank at that point and fill the gap with the same epoxy I am using to attache the winding check. I have been installing CF grips since they first came out, no failures to date!
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
Phil Erickson
I should let Herb answer as he mentioned it. But, I think most likely it is because CTS describes the end as having extra internal reinforcing. He may be concerned that it could nick the blank at that point when the rod flexes.
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
Phil Erickson
Lance, that is correct. The interior foam is somewhat soft enough that very little reaming is needed, even none on light weight rods. However due to the hard shell under the top carbon fiber surface, there is no detection of the softer core. I did order any of the "natural" grips with this shipment, but now have some on order.
Forum: rodboard
6 days ago
Phil Erickson
Herb, the ridged end is only the forward end as the rear is inletted for the reel seat. My solution to your concern regarding contact with the blank, is to bore it out just slightly larger than the blank at that point. It is not any harder than a blank, so do not think it is a real issue.
Forum: rodboard
7 days ago
Phil Erickson
I just received a new CTS carbon fiber grip (full wells) it is unlike any carbon fiber grip I have seen, handled or made. The interior foam is elastic, yet the exterior of the grip is ridged. The surface they advertise as "silk touch" with a very light rubberized feel. When the grip is dropped on a hard surface, it sounds like a glass tube! Really unique and unusual. Has anyone had e
Forum: rodboard
10 days ago
Phil Erickson
Phil, I am missing your point completly!
Forum: rodboard
10 days ago
Phil Erickson
The large to small guide train, is a traditional way of doing the build. Basically a "cone" theory. In recent times it has been proven that it provides no real benefit. Do to the way a fly is cast, in most cases the line is not running out through the guides as it is already out the tip. The exception is when one is shooting line for extended casts. Guides come into play when fightin
Forum: rodboard
10 days ago
Phil Erickson
If you do not use CP, it will not be visible.I do it frequently.
Forum: rodboard
11 days ago
Phil Erickson
Whatever colors you choose, keep in mind they look vastly different with and without CP! The lighter colors like yellow will be almost green on a blue blank without CP!
Forum: rodboard
11 days ago
Phil Erickson
The Minama's will work equally as well, and reduce weight by eliminating a wrap on each guide.
Forum: rodboard
12 days ago
Phil Erickson
The cost of development are far greater than the costs of copying! I build fly rods across the full spectrum of price points, and I firmly believe there is a vast difference between a CTS blank and a no-name knock-off! But even that difference in $ is not 30X !!
Forum: rodboard
12 days ago
Phil Erickson
Mask it off.
Forum: rodboard
15 days ago
Phil Erickson
Trung, yes Peen State has a mandrel set that I use.
Forum: rodboard
15 days ago
Phil Erickson
The surest and safest method of holding mandrels on a lathe is with collets! They grip the mandrel tighter than any chuck can and cannot loosen up.
Forum: rodboard
16 days ago
Phil Erickson
Not wanting an inleted seat, for a 4 wt really narrows your choices! Most light weight fly reel seats today are inleted, and most of the non-inleted are for heavier rods. I have seen some spinning reel seats used on light fly rods.
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
Phil Erickson
I have built on the NFC blanks with the ridges and found no issue with wrapping or packing size "A" thread. Note, their new Iconoglass rods also have the ridges, however they do not seam as pronounced as those on carbon fiber. By the way, the Iconoglass is a very nice blank! Lighter and smaller diameter than many other fiberglass blanks. I have not fished it, but have done some test
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
Phil Erickson
If you are going to sand the blank, do not use anything rougher than 320 grit. It will knock off the ridges plenty quick and be less likely to get into the carbon fibers. I have done a couple at the customers request and they turned out fine. Care and Patience!
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
Phil Erickson
Gray matte is the carbon fiber color before any finish is applied to the blank. Any color then, is an applied finish of some type, usually a paint as Herb mentions above, some times a urethane clear.
Forum: rodboard
18 days ago
Phil Erickson
Never had a ferrule break.
Forum: rodboard
19 days ago
Phil Erickson
Actually Phil, most bottle corks are much longer than 3/4" ! Wine corks are taken from the bark as plugs the same direction as grip rings. That said, grip cork can actually be harvested thinner than that for wine corks!
Forum: rodboard
19 days ago
Phil Erickson
Decal Connection can make just about any label you wish. I have them make my labels with my logo and all the rod specs I wish to put on the rod.
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Phil Erickson
I use that process, and I wait until the epoxy will no longer "fingerprint:. You test this, not on the rod, but in the left over epoxy you used!
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Phil Erickson
Decal Connection, a supplier on the left can do what you want. They are the "go to" source for a great many of us! Lots of options, take a look at their web site with the link on the left. Debbie is wonderful to work with if you have questions or problems!
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Phil Erickson
If you have an area of the blank where you can test the process that is what I would do, as I am unsure how well the staining will work. Another approach would be to color the Perma Gloss. Again testing would be prudent. You end up finding that staining doe not work and you will need to paint the blank.
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Phil Erickson
If you have an area of the blank where you can test the process that is what I would do, as I am unsure how well the staining will work. Another approach would be to color the Perma Gloss. Again testing would be prudent. You end up finding that staining doe not work and you will need to paint the blank.
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Phil Erickson
Here is how I do it. Start the wrap at the edge of the ferrule, continue the wrap on up the foot of the guide finishing as normal. One continuous wrap. In some cases it requires adjusting the gude placement, so that the wrap is not too long.
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Phil Erickson
WHOA ! No way you need size 16 & 12 on a 3 or 4 weight rod, especially for nymph fishing. 12 &10 or even 10 & 8 are sufficiently large enough.
Forum: rodboard
21 days ago
Phil Erickson
I also do it with the blade without heat. Care and patience!
Forum: rodboard
Pages: 12345...LastNext
Current Page: 1 of 91

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