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Results 1 - 30 of 11852
4 days ago
roger wilson
I suspect that in the world wide scope of things - worrying about 3-5 grams of weight added to a rod or subtracted from a blank - is likely to be virtually impossible to detect on a days fishing. Yes, it is detectable on a scale, but other than that - very difficult to make in the hands of a fisherperson using the rod for a long day of fishing. For example - one could run a test and have tw
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
roger wilson
Over the years, I don't believe that I have ever trimmed a blank from the tip. The vast majority of the rods that I build - require the sensitivity that a "fine" tipped rod bring to the table. For these sort of blanks, once 1 inch is removed from the tip of the rod, the rod may as well be used to mix paint. The trimming from the tip -simply ruins the blank for the application for
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
roger wilson
Brett, One piece of advice. 1. Don't test cast and if you don't test cast you will never have rod damage from test casting. 2. If you do test cast, just wrap the rod with generic simple black thread with all of the guides in their expected locations. Wrap the guides tight but don't apply any cp or thread finish to the wraps. If you do this it is extremely unlikely that you will ever h
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
roger wilson
Eric, May I ask why you want to wrap with such thin thread?
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
roger wilson
David, One thing that some folks do, is to paint the blank - where it is going to be wrapped with silver paint. It seems that the silver behind the thread takes care of the problem. Do, some testing on an old blank and see what you find. You can also do an underwrap with a color of your choice - like white and then wrap over that. Give that a test and see how it works out Finally,
Forum: rodboard
6 days ago
roger wilson
Lance, When I converted my small chop saw from harbor freight, I also changed the motor. At the time, I thought that the motor was a bit wimpy for my taste. I dug around in my boxes of stuff and found a bunch of motors that originally were used for blender motors. It turned out that the form factor of these motors were the same and the only thing that I need to change was the diameter of
Forum: rodboard
7 days ago
roger wilson
Michael, Of course remember and use what you have learned to build better rods. The point of my comment is that it doesn't make any difference as to a definition of a worm slap, a minnow fart, or a blue gill hiccup. Remember what you have learned about rod building, components etc. Just don't get hung up on an argument about things that make 0 difference about catching a fish, or
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
roger wilson
At the end of the day, it is silly to say whether one can or cannot feel something unique in the water. The thing that concerns fisher folks is what setup lets that person catch and put more fish in the boat. You can call it sensitivity, line stretch - or lack of stretch, or a super duper rod, or an ultra slick reel. It simply does not matter and no point in arguing about it. The
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
roger wilson
A chop saw of different sizes - all of which use a very thin fiber cut off wheel. 1. A dremel tool with an abrasive cut off wheel. Hand held and OK but not extremely accurate. 2. A small chop saw from Harbor freight - that I converted into using a 3 inch cut off wheel and other mods that work very well: Current model of this saw: 3. An 8 inch chop saw from a pawn shop f
Forum: rodboard
10 days ago
roger wilson
Simplify. Only use color preserver if you want to use it. There are advantages and there are disadvantages. For myself, I never use CP on a rod build for myself. When building for a client, I will let them know the difference in appearance of a rod with CP used in the build and the appearance of a rod with no CP in the build. If you want the very strongest and secure guide wrap
Forum: rodboard
10 days ago
roger wilson
In many cases, the problems with setting a hook when a fish picks up a hook is a dull hook. Forget about line type and stretch, just keep a nice pocket diamond hook file in your pocket, and sharpen your hook any time the hook gets the least bit dull. With a sticky sharp hook the type line and rod almost become irrelevant. But fishing is subjective and often there are hours and hours o
Forum: rodboard
13 days ago
roger wilson
Ben, Really??? Yes, you can have too many guides, no matter the guides you use. For example you said that you can't have too many guids using todays guides. All right you have a 6 foot medium action fast - fishing rod blank. Do you think that 50 guides is too many to put on that rod? Remember, you said, "you can never put too many guides on a rod using today's modern g
Forum: rodboard
13 days ago
roger wilson
Same story - different subject: I happen to be left handed. When I coil ropes, coil electric cords, coil anchor lines, coil fishing lines - I always coil with my left hand. As a result, all of the items that I have coiled over the years, have a certain set, have a certain twist, and for myself work perfectly well. But, when I have a family member, friend or other - take one of t
Forum: rodboard
13 days ago
roger wilson
Ernie, The number of guides on a rod should be based on NEED. i.e. do NOT put any more guides on a rod to give the performance that you wish to have from a fishing rod. i.e. if a guide does not serve a useful purpose, do not put that guide on the rod. Another way to look at it - a guide is ONLY needed to direct line flow over a rod as it is brining in a fish on a loaded blank. i
Forum: rodboard
16 days ago
roger wilson
1. I never ever reused a brush. 2. I frequently wash my hands. 3. Once I have cleaned a blank initially with soap and water, I never let any liquid touch the blank again. 4. Every few days, I open the windows in the shop and use high pressure fans to blow all of the air, dust and any thing else that is floating in the air - out the windows. 5. I wash my hands again. 6. If, in the rare e
Forum: rodboard
18 days ago
roger wilson
Ernie, I coat the inside of the grip, by applying a generous coat of epoxy on the rod blank several inches above the final location. As I slide it down the blank, I rotate the reel seat to insure that 100% of the inside of the reeel seat is coated as is the full surface of the rod blank under the glued on components. Then, there is only about 10 inches of grip to wipe down after getting thi
Forum: rodboard
18 days ago
roger wilson
I will be a bit of a contrarian: Yes, I understand the theory about the aforementioned methods about prepping things before gluing things up. For myself - ever since I started building rods, I have to admit, I don't believe that I have ever scuffed a blank before gluing up. When I receive a blank, before building - I will wipe the blank down with soap and water and let dry for a few
Forum: rodboard
18 days ago
roger wilson
Mark, Don't overthink the process. When starting a new guide, I take the starting thread and run it about 10 inches down the rod so that it is out of the way. Then, I tape down that end, so that the loose end is not flapping in the breeze. I will put about 10 wraps or so on the guide foot, and then come back up to the center of the guide and nip off the tag end. This means that I have
Forum: rodboard
19 days ago
roger wilson
My goodness, leverage is never an issue as long as you can grip the rod with both hands and have one hand in front of the reel, anywhere you wish to place it. Lots of folks will fish and fight a big fish with a rod that had no foregrip, and do just fine. Simply grab the rod blank where it is needed to supply leverage and haul away. Also, for distance casting --- ALWAYS -- cast with two h
Forum: rodboard
19 days ago
roger wilson
Roland, A ready supply for blanks is the charity box at fishing stores where folks drop off old rods. Or you can go to a pawn shop and purchase an old rod. Or go to a salvation army or a good will store and there will often be a bucket or rods for $1 each. Garage sales will often have a bunch of fishing rods for sale - cheap. Always be on the alert for a rod to scrounge up cheap
Forum: rodboard
19 days ago
roger wilson
If you have a shaped grip coming that matches the contour of a particular reel seat, then you will need to cut from the butt end of the grip. Also, many grips come pre shaped to have a nice contour for the best grip. Again, if that is the case, only trim from the butt end of the grip. If there happens to be a tenon cut into the grip of a pre-shaped grip, simply cut as much of the gr
Forum: rodboard
19 days ago
roger wilson
Whenever I put on an over fitting butt cap as you describe, I use the lathe to cut the tenon into the end of the grip, so that the inside end of the butt cap just touches the end of the rod blank. When when I glue on the butt cap, I place a layer of epoxy on the inner side and edges of the butt cap and push it in place and remove any excess that squeezes out with DNA. If you have not glue
Forum: rodboard
21 days ago
roger wilson
Al, I use two items that have not been mentioned. For all of my reaming work, I use circular files - to which I have ground down the handle end to give me a symmetric constanT diameter that I chuck into a drill. On each of these files I have sharpened the point so that I can start with a pretty small center hole in the arbor and established the first hole in the arbor. --- Clot
Forum: rodboard
25 days ago
roger wilson
In addition to John's comment. I use a piece of 1/8th inch tempered hardboard to do exactly what he suggests. The hardboard does a nice job of protecting the bench but is easily cut to size, and inexpensive to replace if ever necessary. For example: I use hardboard like shown above to place on top of all of my work benches in the garage. I just use a nail gun to secure the
Forum: rodboard
25 days ago
roger wilson
Bob, At the end of your post you mention a 4-rod wrapper. What are you actually thinking about. It is virtually impossible to WRAP 4-rods at a time. It is not a problem to DRY 4 rods at a time, but not wrap 4-rods at a time. For example, here is a 4-rod set of dryers: Another example of multiple single rod dryers drying rods. If you are handy and have tools and knowle
Forum: rodboard
26 days ago
roger wilson
John, Ditto on your comments. In addition with the wonderful slow speed control of your wrapper and its ability to back up, I have never found a need to have a tension rod using your machine. Best wishes
Forum: rodboard
27 days ago
roger wilson
Jeff, I expect that there was moisture in the rod locker that somehow make its way into the rod. I would expect that if you leave the rod out in the sun for a couple of days that the milky condition would disappear. Also, open the rod lockers and put a fan in the lockers for a week to really dry out the interior of the rod locker. Note: Whenever I come home from a fishing trip,
Forum: rodboard
27 days ago
roger wilson
Lance, Is there any downside to leaving the reel seat like it is?
Forum: rodboard
11 months ago
roger wilson
<p>I recently discovered a new motor design for use when rod building. </p> <p>This is a larger 60 mm motor with the choice of either 12 or 24 volts dc.  But the very very very good attribute of this motor series is the ultra qiet gear train - compared to many other somewhat similar motors.  In the case of this moto
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
roger wilson
<p>An enlarged section of the picture posted about the appearance of CTS thread wrap finish after some time: </p>
Forum: rodboard
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Current Page: 1 of 396

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