I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2019 EXPO
EXPO ON FACEBOOK
CCS Database
Int. Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
All American Guides
American Tackle
Angler’s Roost
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
Anglers Workshop
BatsonRainshadowALPS
BRC Rods
Bingham Enterprises
Canada Rodbuildersupply
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
CTS New Zealand
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
Hitena USA
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mickels Custom Rods
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Pacific Bay
ProProducts
Reelseatblanks.com
Renzetti Inc.
Rod Components USA
Rougarou Rods
Rodgeeks
RodMaker Magazine
RodMaker Magazine Blog
SeaGuide Corp.
Tackleworks
The Rod Room
Trondak U-40
Utmost Enterprises
VisualWRAP/VisualWEAVE
ZipCast


Pages: 12345...LastNext
Current Page: 1 of 326
Results 1 - 30 of 9780
Yesterday
roger wilson
Jim, Once you get the blank and reel seat, invite the client over. Tape the reel seat in the position where it would be with a 24 inch grip and see how he likes it. Easy to do this before you do any work on the rod. Much easier to change lengths now - rather than later. Good luck
Forum: rodboard
Yesterday
roger wilson
Bob, Pretty simple. Pac Bay size 16 match size minima guide. Then, size 10sv minima and size 6 or 5 runners to the tip in the size that you choose. Good luck
Forum: rodboard
2 days ago
roger wilson
Jim, There are a lot of long rods that are built with long grips, especially ones that are using a tennessee grip. The customer is always right, so build what he wants. If using a cork grip, it often works better to use 2-12 inch grips, or 3-8 inch grips to create the 24 inch handle. The 24 inch length is pretty tough to work with on a lathe, or gluing up. But, you can purchase st
Forum: rodboard
2 days ago
roger wilson
Largest
Forum: rodboard
2 days ago
roger wilson

Forum: rodboard
3 days ago
roger wilson
Put a space heater in the area of the rod and turn it up to 90 degrees. The additional heat will often kick epoxy into a nice cure if the epoxy is a bit reluctant to cure. You can actually just use a cardboard box to dry the rod and put a heater at one end, or use another source of heat, just for the box. Good luck.
Forum: rodboard
3 days ago
roger wilson
I have built a lot of rods, with 0 finish on the blank. I finish the blank by doing a final wet and dry sand with 600 grit paper and go build the rod. I do 0 maintenance or finish on the rod blank, except to wipe off the scales of the fish from the bait that I use and the fish that I catch. Nothing of any sort is every required on the raw graphite or fiberglass. For wet sanding, just u
Forum: rodboard
3 days ago
roger wilson
Bob, Easy. For walleye jig fishing the length that is used by the majority of walleye fisherman is a 6', 6'3", or 6'6". If vertical jigging a shorter rod is normally used - like a 6' rod. If casting or lobbing a jig, then a 6'6" is a good candidate. For live bait fishing like lindy rigging the typical rod is either 7' or 7'6". I have rods ranging in length
Forum: rodboard
3 days ago
roger wilson
Daren, It is much much much simpler to either ream or drill the cork rings to size, before you glue them up. That way, after gluing up you just need to run a clean out through the glued up rings and you are essentially ready to put it on the lathe for shaping To shape a grip that has already been presized to fit the grip, you simply build up your arbor with masking tape to match the tap
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
roger wilson
After one entire batch of tubular - both graphite and fiberglass rods were broken by clients who used them quite vigorously, and commonly beat the tip against the ice to free the tip of ice, I completely stopped building tubular blanks. But, by all means, if you wanted to go to a tubular glass blank, go for it and let us all know how it works out. As much as anything else, when ice fishin
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
roger wilson
Tyler, Pick up a rainshadow solid glass blank in medium power in a 6 foot or 6'6" length, and use a chop saw to chop off as much length as you need from the butt of the rod. The rod will have plenty of power and sensitivity to do exactly what you wish with the rod. If using a spinning reel, I would use a size 16 first guide and then size 10s to the tip and a size 10 tip top. The si
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
roger wilson
For a rod like you are repairing, I would use a piece of solid fiberglass on the inside of the rod of the appropriate size and taper as needed. Good luck
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
roger wilson
I don't use recoil guides because of the noise. I never build a spinning rod with a butt guide smaller than size 20. You really need no more then three, and even 2 reduction guides from a spinning reel before you go to running guides. 6,5, or 4.5 runners all work fine for the rod you are building. I would likely go with 20,16,10 to the runners. Or 20,12, 8 to the runners. Best wish
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
roger wilson
I dislike working hard. So, I will use tape to build up the blank so that the upper part of the blank is the same size as the butt section of the blank. I will leave 1/8ith inch gaps in the tape bands to allow epoxy to flow directly to the blank and then have a constant glue joint for the length of the grip. Then, I will take my reamer and ream out the eva grip so that it is a slip fit from t
Forum: rodboard
9 days ago
roger wilson
I don't use color preserver, nor do I use NCP thread. I like the transparent look that one gets with nylon thread and epoxy finish. The color will darken with the coating, therefore, knowing that it will darken, choose the color that you want when it has been coated. Be safe
Forum: rodboard
9 days ago
roger wilson
I apply the decal before coating my guide wraps. Then, when I coat the guide wraps, I will use the same number of coats to cover the decal as I do on the rest of the wraps. I normally have a trim wrap on each side of the decal, so everything gets coated at the same time. Good luck
Forum: rodboard
9 days ago
roger wilson
Make one wrap. If you have the guide an inch away, just make the wrap and inch and a half. But, when I do this, if the guide is to be that close, I will put the guide right on the ferrule and just do the typical wrap. Good luck
Forum: rodboard
9 days ago
roger wilson
These solid glass rods make for really tough excellent plug or trolling rods: In this series of blanks, I would go with the medium action blank.
Forum: rodboard
9 days ago
roger wilson
A paragraph from another site on Lake trout fishing: "Equipment: When jigging for lake trout, the preferred rods are 6’6” to 7’6”, medium to medium heavy, with a fast action. 30-40 lb braid with about a 12’ fluorocarbon or monofilament clear leader is the preferred line set up. 17-20 lb monofilament line throughout can also be substituted if preferred. The bait caster reels that are
Forum: rodboard
11 days ago
roger wilson
Nicholas, Yes of course. The Alps wrapper with the upgraded chuck is excellent. The up graded chuck on the alps wrapper is essentially the Taig head stock with the Taig chuck. Both of these products have been used for many years in the lathe industry and both are proven products. Good luck
Forum: rodboard
12 days ago
roger wilson
Eric, If you are handy, and have the tools you can make your own power wrapper. The cost will be dependent on what you put into it. For example a couple of pictures: The power head that I use for my current wrapper. This head stock uses a 1/2 inch keyless chuck that rotates on a pair of 1/2 inch bearings pressed into a nylon block. It is driven by XL timing gears and belt by a d
Forum: rodboard
15 days ago
roger wilson
Gary, 10-4 on the cost of lathe accessories that will be purchased to make it really functional for many different uses. I am sure that I have more in chucks, tail stocks and accessories than I have in the rest of the lathe. But, I am more than happy that I have every one of these tools to be able to do the job/s that I wish to do on and with the aid of the lathe. Best wishes.
Forum: rodboard
15 days ago
roger wilson
David, I read and understand your comment about the use of tension devices that put tension on the thread spool; however, this is one thing that I really don't like at all. My main reason is that if there are labels on the thread and or as the size of the spool changes, the thread tension changes. Rather, I have used a tension device that puts tension on the thread, that is identical t
Forum: rodboard
15 days ago
roger wilson
Nicholas, Most folks find that although you may use a power wrapper for shaping grips, that really the best idea is to pick up a wood lathe for that purpose. Then, keep your wrapper dedicated to doing wraps only. But, as always, it is your choice. Best wishes
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
roger wilson
Tom, This is the picture of the grips. The reel seats are going to be 16,17,18 mm.
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
roger wilson
Michael, Perhaps one of the reasons that you find that many of your rods are built on the spine, is that it may be because the straightest axis and the spine are on the very same line. Good luck
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
roger wilson
Unless it is insoluble.
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
roger wilson
Whenever I coat over signage, I use the same thread epoxy as I use for the rest of the rod. However, one important thing: I wait at least 30 minutes after signing before applying the epoxy. Most importantly, I do not ever get a brush close to the finish epoxy in the area of the signage. i.e. I flow the epoxy onto the turning rod, in a quantity that is near perfect and then use gentle
Forum: rodboard
18 days ago
roger wilson
Jeremy, The key point of this entire repair job is to have a tapered plug that exactly matches the taper of the original blank. It is nice to have the repair blank a few inches longer than what you need for the repair so that you can have the repair insert protruding past the butt of the blank. This protrusion makes a nice handle to use when working with the repair blank. If your repai
Forum: rodboard
Pages: 12345...LastNext
Current Page: 1 of 326

Webmaster