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4 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Hi Joel, The reviews of the CTS product has been excellent - but you would expect me to say that. If you decide to stay with the CTS product for this project - all the info is here: Mike, CTS' internal model name for the old Euro Nymphing blank is "FY" -hence the XY. Let's make it easier to understand: There are only two dedicated CTS Euro Nymphing Blanks: #1. The original 1
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Alex You can not make the statement that the tunnels are entirely filled - Unless you allowed the epoxy to wick entirely to end of wrap before you epoxy wrap. Yes - you filled the opening- but that's not saying much for stabilizing the guide. And since you used CP - I'm pretty sure you just closed openings. Because CP will inhibit wicking of the epoxy Herb CTS
Forum: rodboard
6 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Is someone able to erase extra posts?? Herb
Forum: rodboard
6 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
David, The CTS Bayaster - 7'0" - 1.0 - 2.5 Oz - one piece. I built 3 for my son for his boat. Heavier version though. Herb U.S. Distrib for CTS
Forum: rodboard
7 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
James Horton Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Guys I'm looking to build 2 different rods. > Spinner bait rod (3/4) for long cast in open > water. > Jig rod (1/2 3/4) for long cast in open water. > > What are the top of the line blank. Thanks James, CTS is a premium blank from New Zealand. What lengths are you considering. Herb C
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Mike, CTS' internal model name for the old Euro Nymphing blank is "FY" -hence the XY. Let's make it easier to understand: There are only two dedicated CTS Euro Nymphing Blanks: #1. The original 10'6" Euro X #2 or #3. It is no longer shown on the CTS website. It is, however, still available to be ordered. #2. The new 10'6" Euro XS with the solid tip - also in #2 and #3
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
The original Euro-X IS still available with the hollow graphite tip. The new Euro-XY with graphite solid tip has a softer tip - without added weight due to fact that it is depowered. Herb
Forum: rodboard
9 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Euro-XS tip made of graphite. Evidently it is desirable to have a blank designed for uro fishing to be as softas possible. The XS tip will be softer than the old discontinued Euro-X. I am finding out if the old Euro-X will still be available as a special-order since all discontinued modles may still be ordered. The Affinity-MX was discontinued and I placed many orders for that model - it has s
Forum: rodboard
10 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Mike My post above has been edited. Herb
Forum: rodboard
11 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Gen4, reportably is a good thread finish. Assuming you did not use CP - you probably did not use my technique to fill tunnels. First of all, thread epoxy is NOT just to protect thread. The thread and well applied epoxy forms a composite that both protects thread and bonds guides to the blank. Common sense will tell you that if you are able to move guides to align them - the thread does not h
Forum: rodboard
12 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Mike, The Euro XS has a solid tip section. The Euro X has conventionl hollow tip section - and now has been discontinued. Herb
Forum: rodboard
27 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Frank, Double post Herb CTS
Forum: rodboard
27 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Frank, Buy some jewelry polishing papers. This is not sand paper. Cut off a strip about 3/8" wide and take the gloss off the wrap. I would try the pink paper. You do not want to nick the thread wrap - so, go easy. Herb CTS
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
jeppe, I'm late to the party because while I do market all blanks for CTS - I specialize in fly blanks. But My son runs a 24 foot center consol out of the Jones Beach inlet. I built him a 7'6" CTS BayMaster built as a conventional rod and also a 7'0" lighter rod - same model. To provide some details - the 7'6" rod can handle sinkers up to 12-14 Oz when he fishes deep for large
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Joe, We seem to go around and around regarding ceramics as running guides. IMO - too heavy for a 4 and 5 weight - and you will absolutely killthe performange of your rods. I love the Fuji product - but use them as stripper and next one or two. But not as runners. Herb CTS
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Bill Mu UK fishing buddy is a big Sage (as well as CTS :-)). His comments to me was that the R8 is a very stiff rod. Would not be friendly to new casters. It has its place - consider it a niche rod. Herb CTS
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Perfectly O.K. It's just that the taper ohn a rod nlank is so gentle that you will need more than one. I only build fly rods - the reamer I use has a taper that is aggressive enough to only need one reamer. But your way is Perfectly acceptable. I do have a set of the Mudhole reamers - 4 of them ' but rarely use them. I find that my one reamer produces better results. That's why I suggested
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
I thought you wanted a one piece reamer. Otherwise you can buy the Mudhole reamer ser Herb
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Ernie, Good question. Do you use it as a power reamer?? I don't know heat tolerance. But used a butane torch on a reel seat and epoxy held but foam arbor melted H
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Ernie. Lying horizontal. Some epoxy may "leak" out to capture more grit. Try to apply epoxy evenly and not overly thick to eliminate what you are concerned about. If you apply epoxy evenly and squeeze evenly - you will be fine. Knock and wipe excess grit off Herb
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Hey Ernie, I'm glad that someone besides me appreciates a good simple "grit reamer". Sandpaper wrapped reamers do not work for me because I cut my bushings into 4 equal pieces - about 1" each. The sandpaper reamers do not ream true because of the grooves. I made my own tapered grit reamer from a tapered sandpaper reamer with sandpaper removed. First - in my opinion - I thi
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
YES! And use West System GFlex 650 epoxy. Herb CTS
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Can get on RB.org site - but still buffers when I click on to a post. Happens to anyone else? Herb
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
DNA or isopropyl? Herb
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Thanks all. Solved it. Herb
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Happens most of the time. Tales forever to post. Herb
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Depending on how much finish you applied previously - I would use 400 - 600 grit so you don't go into your threads. I don't block sand. I cut a strip of 1-2" wet or dry and buff like your polishing a shoe with a rag. It evens out the surface and you don't have to worry about longitudinal uneveness. Obviously - rotate the rod every once in awhile. Herb CTS
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Interesting!! Never heard of it. Is it heat activated? Herb CTS
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Larry - good fo you to improvise. I use sharpened thin-walled brass tubing of various diameters to cut a plug from my rubberized cork fighting butt cap. The hole allows me to insert the bushed steel rod to turn my fly rod handles right on the blank. I use the same plug to close hole after the grip is shaped. Herb CTS
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Gotcha. Herb
Forum: rodboard
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Current Page: 1 of 75

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