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2 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Daren, CTS has a design for an Affinity-X 8'0" #8, 3 piece. $215 (ish) depending on paint color + shipping. Also - if you want glass - 7'6" #7 either 2 or 3 piece. Or an 8'3" #7, 3 piece. A #7 can easily casta # 8 line. So lots to choose from Herb
Forum: rodboard
3 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Bill, Thanks. Daren, Yes - what Bill said. My email is not hidden. Herb PS - One of my customers inquired re 8'0" blanks in 5, 6, 7 weights This is what we have in those weights: FX805 - 2-, 3- and 4-piece FX806 - 4-piece FX807- 2-, 4- piece. I'll enquire about an 8wt. But an FX can easily be uplined to an 8.
Forum: rodboard
3 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Daren, CTS has quite a few 7'6" - 8'0" fly blanks.Why reinvent the wheel? Herb CTS
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Whatever you decide on for ther guide train - I wouldn't go smaller than a #1 Herb
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Steve, Phil, I used to install CF grips on my rods 8-10 years ago - I noticed that the hard carbon skin on the forward end of the grip came in contact with the blank. As the blank flexed against the rigid carbon skin it actually etched the blank. Over time I am sure that it would pose a problem leading to failure of the blank at that point. My remedy for that was to port the forward end enou
Forum: rodboard
6 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Hey Phil, Some will be delivered to me on my next shipment. They are a little too long for my personal use. I like my grips about 6 5/8". But I have to handle one before I decide. Also interested to see if the rigid skin on the forward end of the grip comes in contact with the blank. Will have to be ported and cushioned with a neoprene "O" ring if it does. Let me know after
Forum: rodboard
10 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Why not just tape your trim-band thread along blank - partially wrap feet over the taped trim - pull trim under the guide wrap? Herb
Forum: rodboard
11 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Michael In fact - fly line diameters do vary drastically. A Skagit floater flyline, for instance, is rope-like. Also - personal preference plays a part. Some OEM's use different guides for saltwater vs fresh. Sage used to make a rod for saltwater whose runners were oversized. A marketing issue. Some builders like a knot in a flyline to be able to clear all guides and the tip-top. So they
Forum: rodboard
11 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Ben, IMO - I wouldn't use a MW stripper - and I wouldn't go smaller than a #1 guide - whether you go from stripper directly to a #3 or the #1 train. Herb
Forum: rodboard
12 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Tom Do you find that the Gen4 takes longer to tacky-stage than TM - when I want to apply 2nd coat? The specs say it takes 4 hrs. TM says 3 hrs - but it is really 2-3 hrs Herb
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Hi Tom, If you go to you will see various paint colors - including the option of "P2000" which is raw carbon - with no finish at all. All CTS paint finishes are Auto paint. I would venture a guess that most manufacturers do the same. There are gloss finishes and Matte (Satin) finish. There are some manufacturers, i think, that apply another clear-coat over the paint to protect th
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
The best, as Tom states, is foam. Drywall tape is O.K for very thin applications - and even then you have to snug it down with thread so the layers don't slide when you install the seat. Best to install the foam arbor on the blank first. Then install the seat after the arbor to blank epoxy is fully cured. As Tom again states - you may have to shim the arbor to seat interface with thread. Her
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
IMO - Phil is correct - if your aim is nymphing you really don't even NEED a ceramic stripper. But to be practical I would use one ceramic guide -say a #10 - and then go right to REC Nickel Titanium Recoils. Herb
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
You're not going to beat the REC s/f or snakes. Actual weight of blank will not provide you with the desired result. The only way to compare is the "weight-in-hand". You should take a 2nd look at the CTS. Herb CTS
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Dale, The qualities that you want in a nymphing blank/rod is stiffness and, above all, lightness "in-the-hand". I was visiting a nationally known fly fisherman at his home in Miami a few years ago. We compared the "weight-in-hand" of his Sage 9'0" 8 weight vs the CTS 9'0" 10wt. The CTS 10wt "felt" noticeably lighter. Due no doubt to its lighter tip a
Forum: rodboard
23 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Only cork. Herb
Forum: rodboard
24 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Mike at Wood Stabilizing Specialists Int'l\ He has the best stabilized wood going. very hard though. herb
Forum: rodboard
24 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
No syringe!! IMO filling the tunnels is the most important way to stabilize your guide feet. The way I do it is to fill the tunnels as the first step - BEFORE i apply thread finish. Before you apply finish to wraps - place a drop of finish at the opening of each tunnel on both sides of the guide foot. Renourish the drops BEFORE they wick into the tunnel. Do not allow the tunnel to run dry.
Forum: rodboard
26 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
I use ThreadMaster Hi 99% of the time. I did try the TM Lite the other day on an old rod as an experiment. I see no benefit to the Lite. I mostly use a 2 coat finish with my TH Hi. I apply a liberal coat. Then when I'm sure it's soaked through I remove the finish down to the threads. That gets the wraps as slim s possible and also causes any "fuzzies" that may be in the thread to
Forum: rodboard
27 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
No - applying 2 part epoxy will not strengthen the area. The strength of the blank is due to the composite of graphite and epoxy mixed together. Not as a coating. Herb
Forum: rodboard
27 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
You should have just bought a tip-=top one size larger Herb
Forum: rodboard
27 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Absolutely not. Quote "I'm just afraid that the integrity of that part of the rod might now be diminished". And - yes you did. Herb
Forum: rodboard
29 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
IMO, shared by many others - you should't "practice" on price-point blanks If you may be a serious fly fisherman in the future. The blank you should take a look at for stream fishing is the CTS 7'6" Glass #3. It is a very reasonable blank - especially with the RB.org discount I give to members. This will provide world class performance. AND - in the future when you have more exp
Forum: rodboard
30 days ago
Herb Ladenheim
Bill, Mel, Yes - CTS still makes the Vintage (FV) I just ordered one for a customer the other day. You also may want to take a look at the CTS glass line of blanks. Bill can give you more info on those. The 7'6" #3 is a dynamite blank for shorter casting distances. Herb
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Mel, The short answer, for all manufactures, is sometimes. I remember the old Sage RPLX. The #9 was very soft. The #10 was a bear. The Sage Xi2 #10 was un-castable with a #10 line. The lighter rod weights were better. The CTS Affinity-# #8 is much faster than the Affinity-X #6. It is very difficult - and perhaps impossible - to create the same exact action over a whole series on the same
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Mike - there was no typo. 1.5" IS one and a half inches. Herb
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Been looking, unsuccessfully, for article showing rod breaks and reasons for breaks. Can you post it again. Herb
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
Gotcha Frank. BTW - what new thread tensioner are you using now? Herb
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
How did you initially try to move them into alignment? Perhaps the 2nd build is too loose??? I assume that you needed the pick on the small guides - and the large guides could be used as levers to move them??? I guess I'm concerned that you have no basis of comparison re degree of difficulty of moving wrapped guides. Herb
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Herb Ladenheim
I epoxy upper and lower grip on the blank ring by ring. The turn to shape on lathe. Herb
Forum: rodboard
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