Les Cline Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jeremy, > > I'm glad you are a fan of CCS! I wish I could have > learned about CCS when I first started building > rods! There is so much useful knowledge and > experience in this forum that has improved my > fishing experience over the years. > > My simple CCS rig involves: >
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thanks
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes, thanks. > > .......... Now that I subscribed to the magazine, is there an online directory to look up and read old issues?
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I’m a big fan of CCS. I started out learning it right when I started building. I don’t always test my blanks, but I’m a firm believer in CCS and refer to that database a lot. Once I have a good set up to CCS test, I’ll be more confident in my testing results. I’ll eventually get it set up so my testing is consistent every time.
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Les, you saying that you may have saved it to a > document file made me think ........ clicking the > links to the various articles resulted in a > download of a PDF file. I have them all in my > download folder. Well almost all of them ...... > for some reason I don't have a PDF file for part
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jeremy, I still think they are comparing more than > selecting, it's usually I have a rod I really > like, and I want to build one like it, or they > hear someone had great success with this blank > from another company and is there something else > similar? Lastly, you rarely hear many mentio
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This system is for comparing blanks, not selecting > blanks. If you don't have people's opinions from > your region, fishing your water and structure > conditions making suggestions you aren't going to > get anything of value. My presentation > requirements and conditions are completely >
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Les Cline Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Let me begin by stating that I think the CCS > system of measuring one rod blank's power (IP) and > action (AA), relative to another rod blank's IP > and AA, is an excellent system that is accessible > to all rod-builders. The word "Relative" is the > operative word for me. CCS is a Compa
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Curious what everyone prefers for their IP/AA for different fishing. Feel free to add whatever else. Bass: -Shakeyhead, weightless senko, etc -Cranks, lipless cranks: -Large swimbaits -Frogs, etc -Spinnerbaits, etc -Jigs Crappie/panfish: Jigging: Tight lining with live bait:
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Nine right up Dave. Very informative. You got me onto MVT seats and I’m a big fan myself now.
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I don’t post mine either because I don’t have a consistent set up I truly trust. I’ve only been doing CCS testing the IP (power), not the AA. I definitely look over the CCS database when I order though. I haven’t tested the power on my last few builds (SJ-725 X-Ray, DS-710 X-Ray C6O2, SJ-764 C6O2). All are completed and I do plan to test their power. I’ll get around to it eventually. I cut 4”
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Eric Hernandez Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This is probably going to be heresy, but I am a > newbie to this so please be forgiving. > > Due to job stress, my wife has highly recommended > that I pick up a hobby to get my mind off work > after I get home. Preferably one that she also > enjoys to do with me. I have been a casual
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Thanks for the reminder to subscribe. I just signed up for a year!
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Blake Stroud Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What real seat and guide train did you use on that > immc73H build? I built a point blank 73HXF using > an SK2 seat, RV6 butt guide, followed by 3 kb and > 6 kt 4.5 Ti/sic + arrowana tip that weighed 3.76oz > after completion. Your blank weight 2.3 ounces (CCS data base). The IP of mine is pro
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If I could it over again, I would have got the Immortal MH/Fast for my frog rod build. I had no idea the IP was that high on it. I should have looked at the CCS database first. I just completed my Immortal 7’3” Heavy/X-Fast frog rod build. It turned out very good. Total weight is 5.4 ounces. Not too bad considering the IP of this rod. Was hoping it would be under 5 ounces. All good though.
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John DeMartini Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Because I do not know how the manufacturer > terminated the tip. I always cut about 1/8 to 3/16 > inch from the tip to insure that the tip is > flawless and structurally sound. > > Cut away and...... > > Have fun Nice to know. That’s my back up plan if it comes to that. I put
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Unless there is a split that travels back beyond > the end of the tiptop tube you'll be fine. > > .......... Nope, there isn’t. I made sure of this. The tip top tube will definitely protrude over the splintered area plenty. Glad my assumption that it would be fine was right. Thanks Tom, Norman,
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Jeremy Moore Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Will Bedell Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I’m curious about this too. I had that happen > to > > me while trying to glue the tip top on. It > caught > > the tip and dragged one small splinter. I > removed > > the splinter, glu
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david taylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ouch. That @#$%&. You have nothing to lose by > trying to put on a tip top. I would go with epoxy > for bonding strength. I would try and get a tip > top with a long tube length. It may work out OK. > If not, and the action seems strange or the tip > breaks off, you will have to buy a
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Will Bedell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I’m curious about this too. I had that happen to > me while trying to glue the tip top on. It caught > the tip and dragged one small splinter. I removed > the splinter, glued, wrapped and epoxied the tip > top on and assume it should be reinforced now. The > splinter end was well within the tip t
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The tip strength in that area is still very solid. It’s only a tiny portion on one side. Worst case, I could remove 1/8” of the tip. I don’t think I’ll have to. I might put a tiny amount of “super” glue on that splinter area, let dry, sand a little if needed, then install the tip top guide. Being it’s such a very short area. I don’t think it will be an issue or affect the performance. Got lucky
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Splinter is my own fault. I was cutting 3.5” off the butt of my SJ-764 C6O2. Tip smacked against the cabinet. Only 1/8” section at the very tip showing some splinters. In my opinion, once I glue the tip top guide on, it will be stabilized/secure. Opinion?
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Kendall Cikanek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jeremy makes a good point about learning how a > particular finish works. I remember a guy a good > 35 years ago who tried three different brands as > he failed to get a cure across four rods. Two > brands were likely even the same product in > different packaging (Flex Coat, Cabela’s). Over
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I have enough dumb luck/operator error with thread finish. I mix 3ml of each. I’m just now getting perfect level decal areas, etc. I started out using Gen 4, good stuff. I then tried D2 a few times and struggled with wavy areas. I figured out why. Operator error. I do like it, just have to tweak a few things. Been using Gen 4 again. Gen4 bubble release seems to beat all the others (my
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Glad I found this thread. Not sure how I looked over this one in my searches. A LOT of great stuff in here. I’m about to start building my a SJ-764 X-Ray C6O2 (cut down to 7’2”) for my son. Les is also about to build on this exact same blank. He isn’t cutting it down any and going with the 3+1. I just learned of the 3+1, after I already purchased my guides. I’ll be going KL20H, 10H, 5.5M,
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XO Spinning is $79.. Shipping should be free since it’s over $75.. Unless you used a coupon or something.
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Great points for him and info for me you guys provided. MY NEO will be used for cranks, swim/glide baits only. No jerkbaits. Thanks for info fellows.
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My NEO will arrive today. I plan to cut it down to 7’3”. My son will use it for glide/smimbaits up to 2oz, crankbsits… Basically will use it for applications like you. He uses soft plastics most of the time, but lacked the proper rod for swimbaits, cranks, etc. I’ve only heard great feedback regarding the NEO for swimbaits, crank usage, etc. Plus, I wanted to check out the NEO myself. It’s
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Just finished my SJ-725 X-Ray. My son really like it. We have the SJ-736 too. I agree, I think the 725 will be great for what you are after. My initial impressions of the SJ-725, I really like it. Haven’t got around to doing CCS on it yet.
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Perfect. Thank you guys. These are the things I want to continue learning. I’ve fished all my life, but I never paid attention to or knew about these things.
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