go with double foot recoils, whatever the size that is equivalent to their single foot 4s. Double foot deal with ice much better than single foot.
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I am looking for someone to turn and ream me two grips. Grip #1 15" Tennessee grip (cork or foam core carbon fiber) to fit seeker 2pc sp652. Grip #2 18" Tennessee grip (cork or foam core carbon fiber) to fit seeker 2pc sp704. If someone would rather use a pre-made Tennessee grip and shorten and ream, that is fine also. Please e-mail me at mfmarro
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I have built both the dan craft 7' 1wt 2pc and the lamiglas fiberglass 7' 3wt 2pc. I would assume with a short, light rod like this most casts will be rather short (30ft or less). To me, the Lamiglas casts better at this distance with a 3wt line than a 2wt line. I even sometimes use 4wt line with this rod if I know i wont be making any long casts and am using hoppers or other large dries. T
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I built a rod last spring for NY GL steelhead. I used a size 12 double foot BLNAG then size 10 single foot BLAG then size 4 single foot recoils to the tip. I think making the first two guides 16 12 would improve it a little bit. As far as icing, the 4s hold up pretty well, but they still ice up. FYI, just by looking the id of the size 4 sf recoils look to be somewhere between the id of a size
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I think dan craft lists the ern and aa of those blanks on his website.
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I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find exactly what im looking for using the search function... I've purchased a sage 7100-3 sp blank for a lake erie/ontario steelhead rod and i would like advice for guides. I am leaning towards using two df ceramic guides and then sf recoils to the top. Usually, for any flyrod I build that is larger than a 3wt I use ceramic guides. I a
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There is a 4 piece 9' 5wt z-axis blank listed on the common cents data page. Z Axis 5, 9, 4, 5.65, 67 Gil Mc Millan (mfg line wt, length, pieces, ern, aa)
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That is pretty much what I thought. Thanks again.
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The AA for the blank is 63. Thank you for your help.
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I have a lamiglass 843-3 blank (7' 3wt). When i cc'd the blank the ERN i got was 2.2. When I cc'd the rod at shorter lengths, the ERN gets larger. I had ex[ected the ERN to get smaller as the blank got shorter. I took the cc measurements at different lengths by choking up on the blank. As the blank got shorter it would take more pennys for the blank to load 1/3 of its new length. Is this no
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Even better idea. Thanks for your help.
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You are correct in that I don't have that blank yet. I will order the blank and play around with it a bit. Another option i thought about would be to shorten the butt section. What I am thinking about now is shortening the butt section a couple inches at a time and measuring the ERN until I get something close to 1.6. Thanks for the advice, I was pretty sure that taking away from the butt sec
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i want to build a short fiberglass rod to cast a wf1 line. Most casts will be less than 30ft. I was thinking about using the lamiglass fl8436 and dropping the butt section. The common cents data for that blank shows an ERN of around 2.5 i believe. I am assuming dropping the butt section will lower the ERN. Ideally, I would like the blank to have an ERN close to that of the dan craft frsIII6
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I may be wrong, but I think Janns Netcraft carries or did carry a graphite tennesee handle .
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Dan, I spend a lot of time winter fishing for steelhead in the Western New York area. I have tried everything from WD 40 to Pam to try and keep my guides ice free. The bottom line is that no matter what, you will get ice on your guides and if you try every remedy you hear, you will probably ruin an expensive fly line or at least make it a greasy mess. Winter steelhead rods are the only fly
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I used to fish for steelhead and salmon almost exclusivley and still do a lot, although mostly with a fly rod. When you master float fishing it is a truly deadly technique. With that being said, I think a 4 inch butt grip is too short. The extra length of the rear grip really helps because you can brace the rod against your forearm when you are fighting a fish and that gives you a ton of contr
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Thanks for the advice fellas. I think I am going to make the grip on the threaded rod, put the threaded rod into my drill (when dry), turn the cork on the threaded rod, pop off the grips when they are done and then rod bond the finished product directly on my blank. Does this sound like a plan or am i missing anything? Also to open another can of worms, I was going to make the last ring in t
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I am building a 5 foot fiberglass ultra light rod as a gift. The blank was about 7 dollars, I purchased some relativley cheap cork and burl cork and am planning on turning my own grip for the first time. I think I have it down on how to make the grip (rod bond both ends of the cork, scrape as much off as I can and clamp tight). My question is if I should do the cork on a mandrel (for me it wi
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I'm no expert, but the only time i see a use for oversized fly guides would be on a steelhead rod that is used in the winter where iced up guides become a problem. That is also the only time i use double foot snake guides because i find they ice up less than single foot guides. It is somewhat a trade off because there is added weight and I dont think they cast as well as ceramics in warm weath
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One of the first blanks I ever built on was a Janns Netcraft IM6 with a plum finish. I'm not sure if these are still available (it was probably 8 or 9 years ago). You might want to check there. Mike Marrone
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Larry, I have the magnesium, while it is definitley no hardy it is a nice light reel for the price. It balances well on my 1 wt, the only negative is that the reel seat foot is slightly smaller than most others and on my sliding ring reel seat it doesnt fit perfect but it definitley wouldnt fall off in the middle of fishing, but it still should fit and stay on any reel seat on a smaller fly rod
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