I like the look of winding checks, but yeah.. all that was said above I put a skinny bit of tape on the blank where the winding check end will go, acts as a shim too, if it overlaps a bit it can be trimmed, then epoxy it inplace. Can be expensive these things, and i've made them out of anything laying around, bike parts.
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600 wet and dry would be fine Grit I use when saving underwraps, trim etc to smooth it down a bit before binding on a new guide. Can't notice it after the finish is applied. Or you could go 400 then 600 Just not sure with a 400 scuff
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I have these cheapo blanks (rods) where the male section is the top of the blank All I do is wrap the female section the length of the male section so it gives it proper support And thread tension is light so it doesn't get compressed Done in OO size thread mostly, and done so it's the same colour as the blank.. so it gives the illusion that it's a one piece when attached Different co
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"The length of the rod has nothing to do with the placement of the first guide." Sez you & Fuji guide concept? Each to their own
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What line class are you using, and is it mono or braid? I'm guessing for this rod I'd start with a high frame 25 for the butt guide, a third of the way up from the centre of the reel seat to the tip. And simply go down in sizes, the amount of guides is determined by a stress disribution test.
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I've used black NCP in Gude, speed and holland I tend to think any NCP black isn't pure black - goes a bit of a milky shade once finished. I found Gude regular black to be the blackist out of the three
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Nice if you could simply go to the last post read And the ease of posting pics
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The "spine" is of no concern. It was something > that an insurance salesman coined back in the > 1970's. There is no data to show that it makes any > difference in rod performance. No particular > orientation of rod "spine" affects casting > accuracy or rod twist. > >
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Does the blank have any deep scratches? For a factory finish ...I'd try sanding the blank smooth if there are any light scratches and whatnot, fine wet and dry, then compound and wash. Then brush on a 4 to 1 mix of terps and epoxy finish Let it rest in a dust free room untill it cures. That said i did a cheapo rod, sanded it smooth and gave it a coat of black satan paint, rattle can
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I repaired a Fenwick rod the other week, tackle store just gave me the top half of the two piece rod, looked custom with the old fuji guides But it wasn't..the spine was on the side, understandable(expected) for mass produced rods.
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tangle free guides are make by Fuji, SeaGuide, > American Tackle, Alps, and Kigan. > Norm Thanks
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Josh, > Your comment “I thought his reply was a bit > strange considering, We're rod builders trying to > help each other out, aren't we?!” is way > off-base! Michael responded to your question > within his parameters and you exploited it in a > rather rude manner. Talk about biting the hand
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"By the way, your reply to Michael seemed a bit rude" I thought his reply was a bit strange considering, We're rod builders trying to help each other out, aren't we?! And yet you came through with info I was after.
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Thanks, Mark I'll pass that info on that Alps and Seaguide make K frame imitations Incase they are imitations I also said that not all fuji guides are stamped on small skinny frames but they're still fuji.
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Here's the thing, Tackle store dude drops off a few jobs, and asks if I have a K frame two foot guide to fix a rod, I sez no.. your supplier should have K fuji frames, ask to get some in. He sez they're not fuji coz they ain't stamped.
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Well, who makes them?
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?
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Ah so Ultra Poly is a regular thread, thanks for clearing that up. (I use Gudebrod)
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Is that a regular thread, not NCP?
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Colour preserver actually protects it against UV rays. This is the reason why I'll use it on NCP nylon threads (too) - apart from helping it disperse air. Cotton Speed threads will fade too, & it's tricky to apply a coat of CP on that though coz.. it can loosen the cotton, so must be wound on with a bit of tension.
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This isn't new, I have vintage cane and bamboo rods that hasn't got varnish or epoxy on the guide wraps, it was only treated with CP
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Any colour will fade To prevent that just give it a coat of water based colour preserver/ sealer. Even if you use NCP poly threads that have a better dye process, and better protected against UV rays, i'd still give it at least a coat of CP
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Metallics will fade, so will NCP nylons. It's recommended to give it a minimum of one coat CP/sealer anyhow to protect it (plus it helps disperse any air)
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Oh, you mean butt wrap OK never mind
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Have you done false underwraps? just a wrap between the guide legs, can be done in gold - centre trim band done in any contrasting colour that suits the green guide wraps, and then gold trims bands on the ends of the guide wraps. Looks far better than just guide wraps.
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..what sort of line do you have in mind?
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Just grab ya mate, slide the real seat on and get him to do some dry casting and where he feels comfortable determines where it goes, mark it As for the foregrip, grab the tip and put it on full load, where he's got his hand for leverage determines the length of the forgrip, mark it Guides? Well
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Tony Vieson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I see this statement a lot, but I would like a > little clarification on it. > > When you say 21 to 22 inches from the reel seat, > at what point of the reel seat are you measuring > from? > Do you mean the front, the very end of the > threads? > Do you mean the back side were the re
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You could try just wiping the area with acetone - clean cloth, coz it might have a wax surface of some sort
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