Thanks guys helpful. Like the locking nut idea
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I want to cut down a graphics reel seat a bit at the top of the threading. What is the best way to get a clean cut? Thanks in advance.
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Michael Ward Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Could be a packing problem - but could also be you > need to account for tapered offset and adjust your > spacing as you gonthr length of the blank due to > the taper of the blank > > Not sure what you mean about spacing for A per mm > or 2mm. Your spacing between centers will depend >
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2 parts I was doing a box pattern that I got from visual wrap and had to cut it. Some of the boxes had much more open space and I was having to overlap in other areas. 1) Is this a packing problem? 2 what is the spacing for size A thread per mm or 2mm? Obviously would like to avoid this problem and improve. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Michael Ward Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > just expanding a bit for other materials such as > acrylics, or other that you may use... > > EVA to EVA - solvent based content cemener (not > the water based) > Cork to Cork (including burl/rubberized) - > Titebond III > mixed materials, including acrylics - epoxy - such > as RodB
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Hi going to try making my 1st custom grips. What should i use to glue cork? Same thing if I’m doing EVA? thanks for the help!
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Kendall Cikanek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This is a very similar blank to your SWC70MF. > There might be some construction updates, but the > material mix is close to the same. The taper might > be slightly slower on the XComp, or the same with > a slightly different composite blend. Rod Geek > blanks are pretty much repurposed St. C
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Ok got it. Thanks Kendall good to know. I strictly used that rod for chunking over a decade ago so I guess i will have to do some testing…Do you have any input regarding my questions around the application or model?
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Going to be building a pair of rods for primarily for throwing 9” docs for stripers in jersey. They had the Rodgeeks Xcomps in mind. After talking they are thinking the XC734. I know the 9” doc weighs 3.5oz but have built a xc732 and remember it being fairly meaty. My questions for those with experience building on these blanks: 1) i know people like these blanks for jigging, do t
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ok got it thanks for the input.
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Building an inshore blank for someone who fishes down in marathon and Marco island for mostly inshore species. Going to be a surprise present from his brother and he is not sure what weight and line he is using. Was considering between one of the Rodgeeks 7’6’’ geeks inshore models or one of the NFC APFG blanks I would assume he is using 10-20lb test and throwing 3/8-2 ounces at most? Wou
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Robert A. Guist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello Francis. > > I don't know if it came out or not, if not I will > dig up the paperwork and give you the #'s. > > > > ium/Build_8-0063.JPG > > Well the old memory strikes again I never got the > #'s on this rod, it's just a glass blank with a > custom handle b
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Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What species do you mean? Snook? Maybe.Bonefish > easily. Tarpon probably not. Bay, inshore or > offshore? Was hoping to fish them on boats offshore. Sounds like you don't think they would be able to handle it?
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So just to update those that care to know. I went with the plan I outlined above. All i had was a very light coat over the thread and another over the decal. I used a heat gun and took a razor to the back end very lightly and once i got the blade deep enough the wrap sort of spread on its own and got the entire section off successfully. With the new thread on is unnoticeable. Happy with
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Ancelmo Fernandez Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Talk to some of the folks on Juno pier and they > hold the BU-BA3K86/20-40 as the best option. Thanks.This is around the size/weight i was thinking could even go another 1’-1.5’ more and a little more back bone.
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Thanks for the response Les. So to answer your question yes i just want to remove the decal which is over a wrap with epoxy on top of it. What I was considering was to heat the area, take a fresh razor down to the blank, peel back the epoxied thread (possibly sand with 600 or 800?), then rewrap epoxy and apply a new decal. The thread is a white glow nylon size A so i was going to cut alo
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Worked off of he plan I had in visual wrap. Had o add a few to fully close bu not much. Happy with how it came out thanks for the help.
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Put on a decal and realized its a bit off angle. It’s bothering me and thinking about cutting the section off and re-wrapping it. Better to do this after the epoxy fully sets?
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I want to try my first closed wrap and am trying to figure out the amount of threads i need for which colors and to successfully close the wrap. I have the visual wrap software which is good for visualizing the wrap but does not account for thread size or count as I would imagine some of you know. Is there a calculation that people use to figure this out or do I just have to spend all the ti
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Great thanks Kendall.
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Francis Santangelo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Pretty sure the mudhole hand wrappers can go on > the mudhole tracks that the RBS power wrappers > use. > > I just got the RBS Pro G2 power wrapper and I’m > pretty happy with it. If you have the money i > would say it’s worth it Also purchased the kit. I like it. Most of what m
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Pretty sure the mudhole hand wrappers can go on the mudhole tracks that the RBS power wrappers use. I just got the RBS Pro G2 power wrapper and I’m pretty happy with it. If you have the money i would say it’s worth it
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Found 2 St. Croix rods in the garage One is a SWC70MF rated 15-30 and is some sort of composite with no lure rating Other is a PM70MHF rated 20-50 3/4-3oz Rods are slightly weathered, could use a light sanding on the grips and a replacement guide or 2 but in decent condition. Being a North Easterner, I used to use them for stipers and blues in HS but am wondering if they could handle o
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Thinking about doing a build for pier fishing Boynton beach and Juno piers and also using at a surf caster. Already have an 11 ft emcast that i purchased down there last year that is fairly light. Am considering something a little heavier somewhere in the 8–10 ft range for live bait.
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Ended up cutting the rods down a foot. Tested the grip and reel seat at 6ft previous and did some static deflexion also and liked it. Think it will be more than fine for kids.
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Looking for a replacement for the MHX light inshore series. Have been buying the. L844 model and liked it. The RG c2SW70mhf has pretty similar number and pricing. Anyone used both and have an idea of how they compare? Any other suggestions are welcome as well.
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Doing a pair of rods for very young kids. The grand parents wanted small rods as xmas presents. The IS601L would be too light for how the rods would be used. I have 2 CRB IS701H blanks that i was planning on cutting the butts down by a foot each. Is this ridiculous or will it be alright?
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Doing a thin open chevron pattern over an under wrap. What have been people's experiences in marking the wrap in the cleanest manner so there are not any visible marks once its done?
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1st time using the GPS software on anglers resource. Trying to make sense of the numbers from the build sheet results. Can anyone help? It gave me the following Stripper Position beyond spool axle tip: 20 Stripper to Second Reduction Guide: -0. Second Reducer to Third Reduction Guide: -0. Third Reducer to Choke Guide: -0. Total Reduction Train Length: -1. Choke Point Position
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Have been looking on youtube on how to space a 6 axis wrap. Does anyone know how the spacing works or have some material that breaks down the set up?
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