Try this link and search "GammaBeta" and you should find what you are looking for, I have had the same experience as David for fly builds.
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I can't comment on the XO handle, but when dremel cutting a blank I use my shop vac tube in close proximity to the cut to reduce dispersing the dust. I also put 2-3 layers of masking tape centered over the cut line to help further reduce debris/dust/fracturing when making the cut. What I will do is gross-mark the cut line on the blank, center the tape & wrap 2-3 times, then re-measure and
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I have built out quite a few MN tops and can confirm none were welded. None have had any reported failure either (all built & used for saltwater/pelagic fish).
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I still think people overlook the MB734 HM and MB735 HM for finesse jig/bottom fishing for bass, I love those blanks. They aren't for fishing heavy cover/trees, but for open water structure fishing? Amazing blanks that cast light baits superbly. Confusion on NFC ratings - I have found the line ratings to be a better guide over anything else and have held pretty accurate to their claim. I al
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This document is a decent GUIDE... I repeat, it is a GUIDE - there is no substitute for taping out after marking up the correct placement points, but the pdf link below provides some ideas/concepts with Fuji's products for a long list of applications. If you're a rod geek it's a pretty cool document, it has a load of ideas to test or use to build something unique. I have referenced it fo
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The video line Tom K provided has served me very well on a lot of guides. I have started to use spatulas more frequently and I have also been very happy with the consistency of the guide edge by doing so, almost more so than using a brush. See the link below to Falconer's video in which you only have to watch 10-20s of the 20min video to see what has worked really well for me, the link should s
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David please send me an email and I will send the pics and product/color key your way. I have 12 or 13 different colors epoxied.
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It's a small detail item but I have found that wrapping with black A thread or D thread (depending on how oversized the top is) then gluing will help the top sit more symmetrically. Most people won't notice the difference with or without the thread, but I think most builders tend to be a little detail oriented which is why we would probably just order the right tip top, but I admittedly have don
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Thanks David, this was really interesting, insightful, and appreciated. The lighter NCP colors look great based on your images, would you say the same holds for most of the lighter shades as well? Understanding a database/catalog of this would be best, just curious so I can more carefully spend some money on thread this week... I have some epoxy work coming up and can likely provide images f
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I have done both and applying the sticker over a base coat does give it more character. Base coat needs to be on point - well leveled and free of any defects/bubbles/fish eyes.
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Patrick are you looking for a slow pitch blank or a heavy jig blank? They are usually not the same.
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I use an NFC MB735 HM for finesse jig work and that covers the ned rig as well. Awesome blank for it, as I am sure the Point Blank options are awesome too. I don't think it matters if you build the 735 HM as a casting or spinning configuration, just an overall great finesse jig blank. I run 20lb braid on mine with a 10lb fluoro leader but I bet you could get away with an 8lb fluoro leader ju
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chris c nash Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That's great Ken , sounds like you understand > exactly what's going on , a 30, 20 ,10 will work > very very well for what you want to do and you > still managed to avoid using the 25 ,the 16 and > the 12 . Very well done, I'm very happy you got > it figured out and thanks for the kind word
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I wanted to bring this back to the top because I too am thankful for the folks running this board and to all that contribute. This site is amazing, a lot of information to be explored in the archives - it's literally an information library for rod building.
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I have built & fished on the FLIP764 and 766 HM's, I would consider the 764 a finesse flipping stick. It has a pretty moderate action, very sensitive. If you are fishing sparse cover where you don't have to horse on the fish, and you need to use smaller presentations the 764 is great. The 766 is a little beefier, still a fairly moderate blank in my opinion, but both are incredibly light.
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I second that, thank you Geoff for making this right, it says a lot about the brand.
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Certainly not complaining about Alps products, I had no plans on filing a complaint or asking for anything. Just one of those one-offs where if it makes it to your final build without noticing you could be frustrated if you can't find an adhoc fix for it. Geoff - the image has been uploaded as requested in your link.
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Just wanted to share a learning from installing Alps aluminum seats on some recent salt builds. I typically use the flat on the backside (for conventional reel config) as an alignment tool for setting up the seat to be aligned with the straightest blank line, and subsequently the guide train follows that line. Where I failed was to check the seat itself before epoxy. It turns out the seat it
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Chris I am seeing this today as I am lining up the reel and guides I disclosed and I agree with you - it's not going to work for a rapid reduction train. Surprisingly, by mixing up a few guide sizes, I was able to get a 30/20/10/8 ring size on the KW's to line up pretty well with the reel spool axis and it flows into my tape outs for the running guides. Mind you this blank is a decently fast
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Chris I am running 30-50lb braid main line with leaders 15-30lb. The reel spool is ~60mm so I'm starting with KW30, dropping to a KW16 then a KW12 however if it doesn't line up well on the blank I may toss in another ring somewhere in that mix. Running KW8's to the top after the reduction train. Will try to remember to post what works out.
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MB664 is pretty darn good for the application you are looking into. It will handle smaller topwater poppers (Pop-Rs, ricos), and you will find you don't over sweep a jerkbait with the shorter format. Go with an IM or a Delta blank - you don't need an HM for this. If you are looking for a z-spook or topwater stick bait rod, look at the NFC Zentron 705 or MB736 IM or Delta, these will launch t
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Great content as usual, and I have force fed myself a lot of info on the KR method based on this thread. It's perfect timing because I'm building out a spinning rig. The only issue is the rig consists of an 8ft rod and a 12k reel for 20-30lb saltwater work. The KR method seemingly contradicts the 2018 Fuji guide spec chart in terms of recommended guide sizes for a build that is similar to wh
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I like Michael D's suggestion on SS ringed guides, and Spencer & Ron on the spiral wrap. Your friend will be amazed how much easier it is to manage something heavy on the end of the line with that spiral wrap setup. If it were me, I would try to find a 7'-8' composite glass blank that is rated for up to 100lb line and build it out with an aluminum reel seat, x-flock over EVA grips or x-fl
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This particular post has been dead for over 20 > years; I miss the old format. I can't argue with Mark's statement based on this single example (there are several if you search for "spiral wrap"). Part of why I love this site - so much useful info hidden in here.
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Freshwater species are a coin toss if you are targeting fish under 20lbs - I can't seem to feel or notice any major advantage having fished both configurations for bass. However many rod lockers will eat your guides if you aren't careful. Saltwater species targeting >25-30lb grade fish? Acid wrap all the way. It makes a massive difference - much easier to manage the rod, the reel, and th
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1/8-1/4oz on the 735, 3/16-3/8oz on either of the 736's is probably about right. They are on the moderate side of fast in my opinion. Haven't built out the MB764 X-ray.
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El, I would say the 735 HM would be great for a heavy finesse rig, centered around 10lb line. That's what I have mine geared for and it's very well suited for that. The 736 HM isn't that much heavier action than the 735, but you could use it as an all around 12-15lb bass rod (i.e. bladed baits, lighter TX rigs, lighter jigs). The 736 X-ray is about as sensitive as it gets, but also feels a lit
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Having built and fished the MB736 HM and X-ray as well as the MB735 HM, what does your friend want to do with the rod? Critical question before recommending any of those 3 blanks.
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A 13.0mm ECSM fit one I built without any issues on a 10.5in blank butt to lower end of real seat position, but it was a little snug with the spline aligned. However, I would wait until you have the blank in hand to measure out the handle & seat needs. My records indicate a 0.8mm delta between the blank diameters at the top of the reel seat to the bottom of the real seat, with right around
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I would say for general bass fishing, it's a novelty and up to the individual based on preference. On a bass rig it will let you drop guide count, where if you build the guides on top you have to add more guides to prevent blank touch. I have done both and I'm happy with both for bass applications. However... for pelagic species that are going to give you >5-10min of fight? Total game ch
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