Just to update, I called flexcoat and they said it’s entirely normal.
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Perhaps the answer is in the name of the product > ..... flex ..... coat. From what I understand, > wrap epoxy is supposed to stay flexible. I just > tried to see if I could dent a wrap done with Flex > Coat high build with Ultra V, and while I didn't > push extremely hard. I pushed hard enough
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Is flexcoat high build supposed to get rock hard when cured? I finished two rods probably a month ago and got around to fishing them both for the first time and if I press hard enough with my fingernail I can leave a small dent in the finish. Strangely enough, this dent goes away after a few hours. Both rods were finished on separate days with new mixes of finish and I am absolutely positive equa
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Hey everyone, I have read on here about people making their own arbor bits. I need to make one in a size that flexcoat doesn’t offer for fly rods I build. I assume the arbor portion is an aluminum sleeve that is 1/4” round. How would I arbor the point on a spade bit to stay center in the sleeve? Also would anyone be willing to make one for me who has done so already if I paid? Thanks!
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What you are seeing is the undulating nature of > the carbon weave through the clear top-coat. It's > actually a smooth surface. > > ............ Thank you for the insight Tom
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Thank you guys for the compliments. They mean a lot to me! I just want to make sure I’m doing things the right way.
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A close up of the top down photo
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Second photo
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I’m going to attach two photos on this post about my question. The first photo is showing my carbon grip at a slight angle looking from the bottom up, away from me so it reflects light. The finish looks like glass and the streak of light is straight as you’ll see. I’ve always used the way light reflects on my finish as a way to see if my finish looks flat asides from feeling it. In the second ph
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Bruce Tewnion Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That's a sweet looking rod! > > Did you sand the blank before wrapping the guides? > I just got 10 NFC blanks and was wondering how > the wraps go with those ribs on some. > > They came with decals but I would like to put my > name on the rods too so wondering what type and > s
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New nfc sb682-1. Thanks norm miller for the grips and thanks Tom kirkman for helping with the epoxy on the label section!
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Upon doing some deconstruction on a previous built rod I’m assuming you would classify these guide tunnels as not being filled with epoxy correct? I always do saturating coats before removing excess epoxy for my first coat.
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Is it possible to buy an aluminum winding check and change the color? I’ve seen effects on metal that has a holographic/color change effect and I’m not sure the term, but was wondering if any of you knew what it’s called and if it is possible to do on winding checks and reel seats.
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I’ve spent a lot of time trying different ways to inlet. My favorite way THUS far is shaping my grips on a mandrel and then using a modified hole saw for the inlet. I learned the method from herb L. (He will probably chime in on this post) and also had help from the guy at pelagos fly rods. Basically, you’ll need three hole saws, one that you will chuck in your drill and run at high rpm’s agai
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Al, > You can get away with #2 runners on a 7wt. > But the difference in weight between the #2 and #3 > is so small - I would use the 3's > Herb Just to clarify, you could do #2 single foot guides on a 7wt? I would be scared to go that low haha
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Hey guys, I’ll be building a 7wt in the coming weeks and wanted to use single foot recoil wire guides for runners. I know the only way to know what the smallest size I could use is to mock them up on the blank and run line through to see if it will pass but I was just curious if anyone can tell me if they have built a rod of the same size or larger and ran size 3 single foots for runners and
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It certainly needn't be any smaller, or you have > negated anything gained by using the smallest > guide that'll easily pass your knots and/or loop > connections. Larger? It doesn't necessarily need > to be and will only add a bit more weight in the > worst possible place to add it, but it's not
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I know when building rods that you want the smallest guide train possible. I was wondering about fly rod guides however. If I’m running single foot guides on a build and am going down to a size 3 recoil guide should my tip top opening match the smallest running guides in front of it? I was mainly curious as to how you guys do this as there are recoil tip tops that are standard, large, and x-large
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I’m excited norm! I built a 4wt for myself a while back and it is an absolute canon!
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Thanks! It was more of a for future reference question, I noticed that last night when I placed my order. Gonna need an 8wt glass in the near future!
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Aleks Maslov Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Dear Rod Builders, > > There has been a few posts about blank variances, > and while I cannot address those of different > manufacturers, I can address those related to > NFC. > > I had an email exchange with a > customer/participant of this forum, and our thread > is below. If
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I use these: Also, on conventional builds I have started learning the Fuji kr concept which takes the guess work out of half the guides and leaves you with your runners to figure out spacing. I also will use spare thread to secure guides temporarily and I wrap the thread in a way that I can unravel it easily. With enough tension you can hold a guide in place more than well enough with onl
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North fork composites isn’t coming anymore?
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I can imagine it is frustrating. But with the > advent of such small guides and even half sizes, > it's often hard to quickly eyeball guides and sort > them perfectly. The difference between a 6 and an > 8 is evident. The difference between a 4 and 4.5 > not so much, particularly for older eyes.
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Just wanted to vent something on here. I’m currently finishing up a kr concept nfc x ray build. I noticed that two of my wraps (the first and fourth running guide from the tip top) looked to be slightly shorter than the rest of the running guide wraps. I pulled out the caliper and the rings on these two guides measured smaller than the other runners. (I ordered size 4.5 kt runners) I actually had
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Thanks for everyone’s input on the subject!
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When using foam arbors on fly seats is it necessary to use the full length arbor as it comes? I believe they are about 3 inches or so long. Could I cut the arbor into smaller sections and have less epoxy involved to save weight or am I splitting hairs at that point?
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Daryl Ferguson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Aleks, think what you want. I’ve stated why I > didn’t do business with your outfit. If you’re > butt hurt over it, too bad. But, I didn’t troll > anyone. I recommended, warned, advised, label it > as you wish, to research before purchasing. > That’s it. And, when you inquired about my > o
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Grant Darby Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Did you use glue to hold the guide on? Looks like > a gob of something at the foot. And a locking wrap > on single foot guides can be an asset. No glue
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