Thanks again everyone.
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I know the older Fluorocarbons were very stiff and could only effectively be used as a leader. The new ones by companies like P Line, Seaguar, Sunline and even the Bass Pro Brand that Van Dam fishes are great. Less stretch and better abrasion resistance. Comes in real handy when fishing lakes with a ton of Zebra Mussels.
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Thanks Herb. With that thinking, I may even consider the 16H for the Stripper. I don't do a lot of wading, but we fish big water and in early spring/late fall that means wind and WAVES. Numb hands and 4-6 root rollers makes it tricky even for the simplest knots. I usually tie on a pretty long leader so I don't have to retie as often.
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Thanks guys. I'll give those a try. I truly appreciate the assistance. I'll have to look into the FG Knot. I'm always looking for a better way to attach the leader, and have no problem putting in the time to learn a new knot. I'm still trying to find one that is easier to tie in the early spring and late fall when my hands are numb. No luck yet.
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Thanks Eric. I typically use 2000 or 2500 reels, but this setup will be used to throw light jigs (3/32 - 1/8) in gin clear water, so I need as much distance as possible. I've found the bigger spool on the 3000 allows the line to come off better and can add several feet to the cast. I typically use the Albright knot to tie my leader and have had great luck with it (smaller knot than the double
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Hey All - I'm building an NFC XRAY DS721 (7'2" 1 power) spinning rod and looking into the K series guides. I haven't used them before and have found some of the guide sizing and placement "charts" to be all over the place. For a rod that length, I've typically gone with a 30H or 25H for the stripper guide, then down to a 16H or 12H for the second guide. The GPS at Angler's Resour
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Loomis offered a pretty good selection of 6' casting blanks if you can find them anywhere. Also, North Fork Composites has some 5'6" and 6" listed in their catalog, but not sure where those are available yet. So basically, I'm not much help. Good luck. EDIT: It looks like Anglers Workshop had a few GL2 and GL3 Casting blanks in stock.
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There are a few good options. I guess it would depend on your preference, and where/how you'll be fishing the senkos. The MB843 is a good MH rod for throwing around cover. If you wanted to go a little bit lighter you could also look at the SJ843 and SJ842, since these are spin jig blanks, they should have a little softer tip. I like 7ft (+) for this technique to get a little better casting dis
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That is true. I had an old busted up bionic blade that I dug the "female" end out of. I looked for some sort of nut that was treaded similar to the cap, but no luck. I bet if you call BPS rod repair, they be willing to part with some broken butts cheap. Just a thought. I looked "high and low" for a similar system but couldn't find one anywhere.
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Is this waht you're looking for.
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P= Popping rod, 84= length (in inches), 4= power. P844. Typically the Poping rods are a little slower action than the MBR or SJR's. From Loomis website: "A slightly more powerful casting rod designed for fishing the flats, the PR844 is a good choice for a number of different species, including snook, specks, snapper and even small tarpon. Works well with the live bait, but casts spoons
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I think it depends on the type of rod your building, or more specifically, the techniques you'll use it for. If I'm building a rod that will be used for a "tip-up" technique like drop-shotting, shakey head or jigging, I may balance so that the tip will be slightly up at the balance point (I always use the point where your fingers come in contact with the front of the reel, usually your
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Second Tom's comment. Last year I built a spin blank (Loomis SJR842 GLX) into a baitcaster and the results have been outstanding.
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I've used Ink-Jet waterslide decals on all of my rods and haven't had any fade yet. I have a HP Photojet printer and apply 2-3 coats of Krylon Crystal Clear before appying to the rod. Just make sure that you apply the Krylon BEFORE you cut it to exact size, or you won't be able to seperate it from the backing.
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Hey Everybody, I wanted to give an update on my post a few days ago. After posting my issue, I received an email from Roger at Flexcoat asking me to give him a call. We connected today, and I have to say that the level of customer service at Flexcoat is fabulous. I've used their products for years and have always been pleased, It's great to see a company that truly stands behind their prod
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Thanks Kevin. I know that they do have the motor only, but as I mentioned, it's a little pricey. $45, not $30. Just seems like there would be cheaper options out there, On a positive note, I did receive an email from an individual at Flexcoat, but haven't had a chance to call him yet. Just the fact that he took the time to reached out to me unsolicited speaks volumes on their customer servic
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I have the Flexcoat 6 rpm finishing motor with adjustable chuck, seen here: . The motor is about to go out anysecond now, and I'm a little worried about leaving it unattended. The Flexcoat replacement motor is pretty pricey, but there is another motor that's only $13 and some change. (Seen here: ). Does anyone know if the chuck from the Flexcaot motor will work work with the cheaper one? Tha
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Thanks for all the advice. I dug my bottles out of storage and noticed that the "Part B" has turned quite yellow. Is this a problem? Thanks.
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Great. Thanks for the help.
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Hey All, I've got some Threadmaster that I haven't used in two years. The bottles have been sealed, but I'm still curious as to how long this stuff will last between uses. Does anyone have an idea? Thanks. Ryan
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Hey Rick, I had the same idea. Have you had any luck with this?
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I just finished my first rod with LS Supreme, and Clyde is right, it is VERY sensitive to heat. I had a few stubborn bubbles and I used an alcohol torch and got a little too close. It boiled quickly. Oh well, it was a lesson learned, and it STILL looks better than 90% of my commercial rods!! I can't wait to get started on my next one!!
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Does anyone know of any place in Chicago that handles Rod Building supplies. I work near O'Hare and would love to find a place close. I hate to pay those shipping costs for small orders. Thanks in advance!!
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Great advice. I finished wrapping my guides this weekend, and before I applied the epoxy I decided to practice on an old blank. So I did a few wraps to practice on. I did one with CP and one without CP. Just to see the difference in the color, but the dust and fuzz really stood out. Man I'm glad I decided to do a trial run first. Thanks again guys.!!
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Is it safe to use any kind of tack cloth before applying epoxy? I've seen several different kinds. Some say don't wipe just press down, others say wipe in short strokes. If not tack cloth, is there a better way to remove dust or fuzz from wraps before finishing? What about pressing some scotch tape an lifting it off? Any other advice?? Thanks in advance. Ryan
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