Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here are links for the SeaGuide titanium KR-like > guides. They are quite nice. > > ing-guides/products/seaguide-titanium-guide-tixohg > ?variant=43020810944747 > > ing-guides/products/copy-of-seaguide-titanium-guid > e-tixomg?variant=14306477604927 > > ing-guides/products/se
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I couldn't find them, any links? Remember, I'm looking at the titanium guides.
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Was interested in trying the Alps titanium guides but I see they don't really have an equivalent guide to any of the smaller sized Fuji reduction guides like a 5.5M or 6M - would a train of say a 20H, 10H, #6 runner, #5 runners to finish it out, work? Was kind of surprised to see that Alps doesn't make those smaller reduction guides.
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mike, > First off, 98% of people would not feel a > difference; doubtful that 50% would see a > difference; but you know it is there 100% of the > time. Initially, I thought this was a rod for > yourself but now learn it is for a customer. I am > highly critical of rods which I build for mysel
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Mark Brassett Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Its one guide. Cut it off and re-wrap it. It's one guide that has a decorative wrap and has already been epoxied, so I have decided to not strip it off, was just trying to gauge what ppl though generally about the first reduction guide being off by an inch.
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This is the first time I have used the KR Concept guide train so I am not familiar with how sensitive it is to moving stuff around. I have only used Microwave guides for the last three years of building. This is a 2-piece Lamiglas GP1000H 8'6 spinning rod I cut down to 8', forgot to mention that before. Cutting these awesome blanks down takes it from a kind of whippy Steelhead rod to a really g
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Hi all, I got confused between two rod builds I am doing at the same time and wrapped one rod with its first reduction guide one inch too close the the stripper guide. How big of a deal is this? I did a really nice wrap on it and seriously don't want to cut it off unless i have to. It's an 8' med-hvy rod using the KR concept 25/12/5.5/5 etc. Was supposed to be 22" > 10.6" > 7.6
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David Luttig Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For a basic wrap with a trim band my labor charge > is $8 a wrap for single foot and $12 a wrap for > double foot. Charge $10 for the handle install, > more if I make it out of cork rings vs buying it > pre-built. That is what another rod builder in my > area told me he charges. Works for me
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Michael Ward Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Is the blank an unsanded blank? If so I think > you’ll have to apply epoxy to get suitable > surface for the decal Yeah it's an NFC 760-2
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I like the way it looks like you can easily change the belt from wrap to dry - an exercise in frustration for me on my Alps wrapper.
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I am sort of in the same boat as the OP - I can't really justify charging by the hour because some of my builds take me way too long to finish. What I am doing now is I charge for materials plus 10%, and then 10% of that total for labor, so a 200 dollar spend on parts would be a total of 242. It's not much but it's enough to cover this expensive hobby for now. Once I get a good repertoire of bui
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Yeah it's weird, I have never had this happen before, I am starting to think there was some manufacturing issue that introduced some contaminant or something into the blank. I don't like to apply a decal over a coat of epoxy and then epoxy over that as it becomes too thick, but with these decals i may have to.
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Hi all, I am having a terrible time trying to get NFC decals to stick to the blank. I have applied a lot of decals on many different rod blanks, but I have never had this much trouble. After peeling the backing off, I apply the sticker to the blank, and whether I burnish or not the decal will not lift off of the top sticker and stay on the blank. I tried three decals from three blanks I bought
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