Robert, Are these articles available on this site? Can you provide a link?
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The sensitivity I'm after here would be the first case you describe, what is happening at the end of your line. Deciphering bottom structure, lure action, fish bites, etc. A few factors you point out: 1. Length of blank - safe to say then that longer blanks are more sensitive to line feedback? Assuming similar blank material. 2. Lure resistance - the more leverage a lure has against the b
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I built two musky rods with these blanks a few years ago, one for myself and another for my dad. Both were the TI Pro 9'6" XH telescopic. Was actually just looking for a MH version for blades but they are out of stock for the Pro version. Overall I would recommend them. They are light weight, durable, and have a nice fit and finish to them. As a novice builder at the time, with only
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What factors makes a rod "sensitive" and what techniques and materials are you using to achieve the highest sensitivity? Also, interested to hear how you test as well. I have a number of rods under my belt at this point, mainly focused on minimal weight, and I'm finding the amount of weight you add to a blank is only part of the factors to consider. What are your tips, tricks, mater
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Lots of good discussion! I'm still going with the 7 for now...I had it tied on and lined up, and I just need to get this thing glued up before my trip. Good news is I will get a lot of good testing in with it. Like I said, while testing, compared to the 10 I really couldn't tell a difference. I should mention I was testing with a hookless 1oz daredevle. so not the best choice for numbers to n
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Thanks guys, going with the 7 then. Appreciate the feedback.
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Ok thanks. To clarify, it's not a choke guide because it's not a spinning rod? The Fuji guide recommendation calls it a "choke (butt)" guide. What's the difference?
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Building a casting pike rod and debating what size butt guide to use, 10 as Fuji recommends, or slim down to a 7. Last night I was experimenting with a size 10 and size 7. I mocked up both guide options and threw a dozen or so casts with each and didn't notice an appreciable difference. The 10 may have the advantage by a few feet. Visually, the 7 definitely brings the line down quicker and is
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I’m missing something…I’m not getting any results when searching “M&M” for all dates. What’s keywords are you searching for results?
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Thanks for all the input. Very informative to hear about these test cases. I will definitely be trying some 3.5s when I can get my hands on some. I doubt there will be much to report compared to the Bob M info but I will share anything notable. Newbie question: What is M&M and where can I read the different volumes? Is it Rodmaker Mag? Thanks
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I've tested my 4's with 30 lb Sufix 832 connected to 20 lb flouro (.018") with an alberto knot, and it casted fine. I wouldn't say it was flawless, you could here is clicking through, but it would comfortably pass through the 4's and casted reasonably with a 3/8 jig and trailer. So I'm thinking 3.5's should be fine setup with 10 braid to 8 flouro via alberto knot. Just hoping to hear some su
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Sorry if I missed this in the search but quick question I need the groups wisdom on - will I be ok to use 3.5 micros using 8-10 braid to 8-10 flouro? I've built a few rods with 4's and had no problems, but need a nudge to go down to the 3.5's. Details, guides I'm looking at are the Seaguide TiMKG 3.5's with the RS ring. Not sure what the ID measures, not provided in the info I could find.
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Not that it helps your situation, but I just received my C602 703 a few weeks ago and it looked 'ok' to me. That said, my blank is not laser straight. It has a few slight hitches as you look down it, but not noticeable to me at all when I have it in a fishing position. When I say 'slight' I mean you need to hold the blank up to your cheek and look down it against a light background to notice
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Thanks guys, this confirms what I was thinking. Going with spinning for the 703 and a lite casting build for the MB-733. I think the 703 would excel with marabou/bucktail jigs and the 733 will be nice for some smaller 1/4 oz. texas rigs with mini lizards and worms. I'm sure the MB733 could do the same thing as a spinning but I think the action will allow for a casting setup which I much prefer fo
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Trying to figure out what I want to do with two NFC blanks I have sitting in the basement. One is the new SJ-703-1 C602 blank (1/4 - 3/4 Ex-fast) and the other is a MB-733-1 (1/8 - 3/8 Fast). I was planning to build one of them as a spinning walleye jigging rod, mostly freestyle jigs 1/4 - 1/2 oz. and maybe even some lighter marabou jigs. The other would be for baitcasting light Texas rigs an
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Hi all, looking for some advice on what to do with an old Loomis I have sitting in the basement. It's on old GL3 CR 722 Fast, rated for 1/4 - 5/8 oz. I bought this years ago with one of my first paychecks earned as a cashier at a local fishing shop. The problem is I never really enjoyed the grip layout or the short 6' profile so I never use it anymore. I would like to strip this rod down
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Thanks for all the replies. Gluing some rings up now to give it another shot.
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I'm running into issues keeping my turned cork grips symmetrical when turning on my power wrapper, especially when using any rubberized cork to cap or accent grips. I usually start with a standard square end wood chisel against my bench to sqaure up the cork to the mandrel but the chisel doesn't do much to bring down the rubberized cork. I end up chiseling the the normal cork grip and then sa
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For later reference, I called AT and they said the titanium frames aren't rigged enough to make for satisfactory tip tops, which is the only frame option for the pentalite ring. Doesn't play well with such a thin ring when beat around I suppose. They recommended the nanolite ring with the 'TiON' coated frame. Represents what they feel is a better balance of durability and performance for the
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Was putting together an AT Pentalite guide build and noticed there aren't any Pentalite tip top options. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place, but couldn't find anything on their website either. Have never used these and looking forward to trying them but just curious if anyone can shed light on why this is and if they are planned for the future. If so, I'll skip the tip top wraps for
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Using a 4000 size reel.
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Building a 7'10" pike rod for a client and would like feedback on selecting the correct 'KR Group' for this application. I've built casting rods but this will be my first spinning rod so I'm not very familiar with the KR Concept sizing. When looking at the recommended KR groups for 30-50lb braid use on Angler's Resource they recommend the following - 3 guide: KL25H, KL12H, KL5.5M, followe
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Another fly rod question...when is the use of a stint warranted? What are the benefits? Building a 9 ft, 10wt rod. Planning on a 2.5-3" fighting butt as well. Are stints installed typically to hold a reel seat and butt. Use a stint for the both, just the fighting butt, or none at all?
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New to fly rods and not sure best practices for graphite ferrules. First, building on a graphite NFC LMX blank, so the blank has light ribbing in texture and then the ferrule sections have a ridged transition into a smooth male ferrule insert section. So a couple questions: 1. Not crazy about the ridge where it transitions to the ferrule insert. The ridge, when assembled with its mating b
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Thanks for the feedback all. I’ll just have to test the 6’s and see how the knot at the end of my fly line goes through.
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I feel like 2.2g won't be noticeable on a 10 wt., > but building a custom rod is all about building to > maximize performance, so why throw the weight on > if I don't need it. > > DON'T Right, I'm with you on not adding weight, but you believe a size 6 would also be just as functional then?
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Hoping to get some help in selecting running guides for a pike/musky fly rod I am planning. The build will be a 9' 10wt North Fork LMX blank and planning to use ceramic (LZR) single foot guides as runners due to the abrasion resistance with sinking line, instead of snake guides. To base my initial sizing off of I have a Redington Predator 10 wt, which uses snake guides, and a size 8 LZR g
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