Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I just use a piece of a 20 mm polyurethane foam > arbor as a tenon. They work great are the right > size and saves a cork ring for use on a future > grip. > Norm You just glue that to the cork ?
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I've recently started turning grips. I want to know that I understand best way to proceed once it's built on a mandrel. You simply drill out the cork grip to the smallest diameter of the rod it's going on. Where the top of the grip will fit on the blank. Then proceed to ream from there? I have learned the hard way to turn the tenon after reaming. Broke my first one that way.
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I've just started turning cork. What a mess, especially in a small shop/room. Wondering what anyone else might do for dust collection? I was looking at the Rockwell Dust right. Of course I'll always where some sort of mask.
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These ? Just reread your post. Looking like you want it shipped to Italy.
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Went out this morning to check on a rod I epoxied last night. Mixture seemed a bit thick but went with it anyway. Looked great! Went to grab the same stuff in a small crate if you will on the bench. Well DAMN!. It was Flex coat epoxy glue! I was shocked that it looked fantastic, felt hard. I wished I had taken a pic but didn't before I thought, this is how you learn, and put a proper coat on it.
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I've been using Flex coat HB for a while now. Bought a bunch of stuff from a guy getting out and with it came 3-2oz packages of VooDoo UV formula. It sat for the longest time but just started using it. I don't think I can tell a difference in clarity between the two but I sure do like the 5 hr tack free VooDoo. And with both I run a fast butane flame over the aluminum dishes I use and 95% of bubb
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Thanks everyone. Sorry so late getting back to the party. Did one in black tonight. May have to lighten tension even more. Not bad but a few spots VooDoo epoxy didn't seem to soak through completely.
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So I tried silk first time and I'm hoping the white blends in better as epoxy cures. I actually wore gloves tonight thinking I need to do everything I can to keep the thread clean. But I'm thinking I may have introduced some dirt.
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Have you tried adjusting the wheels in their > elongated slots to resize your Engle carriage? All > of the wheels are a bit sloppy; carriage weight > cocks the wheels and removes the slop. I have. For mine just the one middle bearing has a slot for adjustment. Can't seem to find the sweet spot. E
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Thanks all. No markings on it but believe it to be a Pac Bay. Was given to me couple yrs ago when I started and that's the motor was on it. The slots are 1" wide. The lips where the wheels ride are 3/4" ( .75") Reason I am asking is my 2 CRB carriages ride OK. My Rail wrapper ( AL Engle) doesn't. Tried adjusting it according to the video on his page. Also I seem to be able to snap
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Thought I might have read somewhere that there were 2 different sizes for the slots for thread carriage wheels. Any truth to that? Or are all aluminum base tracks created equal?
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Mark Brassett Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It took a couple of weeks for my Upload button to > appear after registration. Would you mind telling me were it's located ?
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Well it worked out nicely. Looks a bit like a Hawaiian shirt and I need to not let colors run together. For the life of me I can not figure how to load a photo. I can log into the photo section I just don't see a upload button. Checked my photos and all over.
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Robert A. Guist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello Robert. > > No you don't have to do anything, if you wish you > can marble on just about anything. > > A lot of the time I will wrap a section with > metalic thread or add glitter or just over the > blank the way it is, it all depends on what affect > you are looking for.
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Question on marbling. Gonna try my first today. I see some paint with something first. Is this just to get a different color to the rod? If I am doing a white rod and happy with marbling on the white do I need to paint for any reason? I think not but had to ask. I searched the forums for marbling and only got 1 hit. Must be a better way.
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Robert A. Guist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello Robert. > > I went to photos and dug these out, there are > probably more. > > > ium/20150318_073320.jpg > > ium/20150404_150522.jpg > > ium/P1210431.JPG > > Happy hunting. > > Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines. Wow some of those are over the t
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Yes I have seen that. As I was sitting there this morning I thought maybe a Visqueen curtain may be a good and simple solution.
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So I have a pretty small area ( 10x 11) in which I build rods and do some lasering. Both hobbies. It's plenty tidy but not sterile by any means. Right now I have 2 drying and don't feel like I should be messing around in there and raise any dust. So I'm thinking about building something to enclose rods, possibly on the wall, while they are drying so I can stay in there working and not worry ab
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Thanks everyone for advice. I have finished the "rod from @#$%&" I'm gonna call it. Little wavy a few bubbles but it's done and delivered.
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I'm in SW Florida, temperature isn't an issue normally I wouldn't think. In the summer I run A/c and keep my little shed @ 77 instead of 95. Little chilly by our standards right now but it's 69 degrees right now. But I'm sure we'll hit mid to upper 70's.
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I've always used Flex coat also without an issue. I just seem to be really struggling with bubbles on this build.
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Thanks everyone. I really did figured it was my doing. I’ve just never had trouble getting rid of bubbles before.
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I have opened a new package of flex coat high build. My routine usually takes a small flame over top very quickly of the mixed flex coat to remove bubbles. POP They're gone! This didn't seem to work as quickly as normal and I think I may have over heated it and applied. Felt pretty thick while applying. When I was done I looked close and didn't think I saw any waves. I'm not sure how old this FC
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Are we saying that when one part of the epoxy tints or discolors it should be OK to use. I have a few smaller bottles like this. Never openerd.
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Have to thank everyone for your knowledge and time. I have a rod to build but instead I think I will just practice some of these techniques with epoxy. I'd love to be able to hit it in one coat. Next time any of the "go to" thinner versions go on sale I just have to try one. Flex coat has done well enough so far. I have no doubt it's more pilot error than anything.
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John Cates Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Robert > > Is there any reason to switch? Are you having > troubles with the Flex Coat? If it isn't > broke... > > I personally like Flex Coat Ultra-V formula. > Better adhesion and working time. Workability is > nice too. > > Here are a couple videos that show how we do
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Been using Flex coat High Build so far. Only about 7 rods or so. I would like to try something else. Thinking Gen 4. Is there any reason or benefit to using a HB if you're still doing 2-3 thin coats? No way can I cover nicely in 1 coat so why use HB?
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It isn't there.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Robert, > If you are registered on the photo page, you go to > the photo page and "Log in" with your same name > and password used for the forum. > Then, click on the link " in yellow" near the top > of the page that says - "upload photos". > > When you
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