Thank you all for the advice! I will be working on it this week to try to figure out the issue. I’ll follow up here. This is greatly appreciated!
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I’m struggling with my alps chuck and the wobble it’s imparting. I bought the wrapper with this chuck already installed. It worked great for over a year. Everything is still tight. I can barely tell it’s wobbling without a rod in it, but when I’m wrapping a rod (or more significantly when I’m epoxying thread wraps and therefore spinning faster) the wobble is very noticeable and making my work
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I agree, Kendall. I am primarily a freshwater guy and don't have corrosion concerns. Unfortunately, I haven't see any casting distance benefits either. I know the tests show it, and all of that makes sense, but in the field I'm not seeing it. I wish I could say different. Also, for what it's worth, I had a torzite tip-top crack on me (while I'm sure it was my fault, replacing a $25+ tip-to
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I've been using my first microwave rod this spring, which is a medium-light freshwater spinning rod that I use primarily for casting small crankbaits like #7 shad raps. It casts as well as the fuji k-concept rods I've built. I can't say it's better, but it's definitely not worse. While I haven't developed a fully formed opinion just yet, I'm not sure that I will build more rods with them simpl
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I've put them on my lightest weight spinning builds, but even there it's hard to notice a difference because the smaller guides in a K-concept layout mutes the weight difference between titanium/torzite and steel/alconite. In any case, I believe it's the titanium frames and not the torzite rings that make the weight difference. I might put them on a rod that I want to be the best of the best, h
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Lance, I disagree. I could literally rub the rubberized grip off these things right out of the box. That's absolutely not the case with the ones I have on my rods. There was a bad batch that was very notably different from the rest. Keep in mind that I am referring to the Perfect Fit Winn grips, which are black and have a small pattern on them. I don't have any of the colored ones with t
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Wynn had a bad batch of Perfect Fit grips maybe a year ago. The grip would flake off right out of the package with any friction. I discovered this while reaming it for installation. I had the same issue with grips purchased from three different suppliers in the same time period. All accepted them back for a refund. Prior to that, I built at least six rods with Wynn grips over the past three
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I have a spiral wrap ice fishing rod and love it. But I'm hesitant to try it due to concerns about casting distance. I can't say I've read a lot about this yet, but for those in this discussion, does casting distance suffer at all?
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Beautiful! What is the are the thread brands and colors?
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More detail... This is a spinning rod with a split grip. There is about 6" between the rod butt and the reel seat where the blank is expoxed. I got some epoxy on that section of the blank and made the mistake of trying to sand it off (very lightly). The blank is fine, but the finish is poor. The is the area where I'd normally put the factory sticker. My idea is to paint this small se
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Understood, Tom, and thank you. This is just the area between the rod butt and the reel seat. 6” of blank that will not be bending.
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I’d like to paint the section of the blank between the rear grip and the reel seat on a split grip spinning rod. I’d like to apply epoxy over the paint. Are there any paint types or best practices I should be aware of? Thank you!
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The P 703 is listed at 1.5 oz: The P704 also says 1.5oz: Interestingly, the 703 C6O2 blank is listed at 1.4oz while the x-ray sanded (mirror finish) is listed at 1.3oz. But the C6O2 blank is supposed to be 30% lighter. In short, I'm not sure the numbers on the NFC website are correct. Both the P703 and P704 blanks feel quite light, but I've never weighed them.
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I have built (as spinning rods) and use the following NFC blanks that have been discussed here: SJ703 XRAY sanded, P703 HM, SJ732 XRAY, and DS721 HM. And I'm adding P704 to the mix. I've thrown a ned rig with each of these rods, probably a 1/10 ounce z-man head with their finesse TRD. - SJ703 XRAY sanded is a very nice rod. It's a high end 7' medium-light fast action blank. - SJ703 a
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I've built on several x-ray blanks with the unsanded finish. While I like the look of the sanded x-ray blanks now that they offer them, the unsanded x-ray blanks never bothered me in the least. For the decals, a single layer of epoxy works great as a base and I usually put two coats over the top. I've never put thread underneath the decal.
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I just went through something similar. You should test cast it, but if you're like me you won't be able to stop thinking about it until you've tried another layout. Anyway, here's a link to the thread with my similar question:
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I went ahead a reworked the layout on this rod three different ways. The first time I eyeballed it to get the bullseye pattern. It casted fine, but seemed to take a bit off the distance from the first layout. The second time I adjusted the choke guide position which resulted in no change. The last time I grabbed a similar length rod that I had previously built - it casts well. I placed the g
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I bought the PB801MXF blank when voodoo had free shipping on blanks right after new years. I also bought NFC SJ804-1 in HM sand IM. I went a little overboard in buying all three… Anyway, they’re all great. The PB801MXF is the heaviest of all. Definitely more material in the tip and midsection compared to the NCF blanks. A little more power, a little faster, and a little more tip heavy.
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Thanks again for these responses. The anglers resource link explains that KR Concept is an evolution of NGC which totally makes sense. Because I'm using KR Concept, I should have only mentioned that instead of NGC. One thing I noticed on anglers resource is the mention of a four guide reduction train of KL20H, KL10H, KL7M, KL6L. I'm wondering if this would make sense for an 8'4" spinn
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I'm sorry for creating confusion. I am using KL-H reducer guides (in my previous post, I said KL when I should have said KL-H). I also said 5 when I should have said 5.5. The reduction train is the one you described: KL16H, KL8H, KL5.5M. Norm, you said that if you were building this rod you'd "do a KR Concept vs a NGC." I thought that a KR Concept layout was essentially a type or
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This is helpful, guys. Thank you. I'm using Fuji KL guides in the reduction train (with a KB choker and KT running guides). My understanding of the new guide concept is that it isn't necessarily the same as Fuji's KR concept guide trains, but that the KR concept guide trains might be the best implementation of NGC?
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Hi, all. I'm a relatively newer builder having been at it seriously since early 2020 and just a handful of rods prior. I have only built spinning rods to date and only for myself and friends. My goal is almost always to build something for a specific purpose. The build I'm working on now is an 8'+ spinning rod that is specifically designed for casting #14 rapala husky jerks (a 5.5" minno
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I've used the regular carbon fiber grips from Northfork and their soft-touch grips. I wouldn't recommend coating either of them. Having used both, I'm very fond of the soft-touch version.
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Was it the Seaguide HLG? On a related note, I'm impressed by the look of their TiXOHG but I'm not sure it's the "minima style" we're talking about.
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I have P 703 (HM) and absolutely love it as a walleye and smallmouth rod. It's a really nice 7' medium-light that handles 1/8 ounce jigs beautifully. I wouldn't fish heavier than 1/4 ounce with it. It does have a lot of power as you'd expect from a blank designed for saltwater. But it fishes very light if that makes sense. I fish P703 and P704 HM blanks regularly and find them to be very
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Having purchased a couple of SM and HM blanks of the same model from NFC, I can say that Norm's description is spot on. I recently ordered SJ 804-1 in both HM and SM, though, and they have virtually the same bend profile with 24 ounces and 12 ounces, respectively, in their NFC website photos. I assume its a typo on the photos, but we'll see. As mentioned, you unfortunately can't rely on their
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I build freshwater spinning rods almost exclusively and weight is the critical factor for me. It does make a big difference in the balance of the rod: heavy guides will make a panfish/walleye/bass spinning rod more tip heavy. New concept or "high frame" guides help with this a lot simply because they are smaller and therefore lighter. Still, the titanium torzite guides are much light
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832 is great line, but it's one I had in mind when I mentioned diameter. 8# Sufix 832 is .18mm in diameter. 8# Ultracast is half as thick at .0889mm. I'd guess the actual break strength is higher on the 832 than is it on the ultracast, but if something closer to 8# actual break strength (with possibly less abrasion resistance) is enough you'll probably get more casting distance with the thinne
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I'm wondering if there is any more information about the spec on this blank? Does anyone have specs on NFC SJ804-1? Tim Scott, I'm wondering if you could comment on the action? I ideally want a tip that will hold up to twitching a stickbait/jerkbait (like a #14 rapala husky jerk or a Megabass 110) but a blank that will still load up when fighting a fish like a 15" walleye or a 2# bass.
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Another vote for VooDoo. I've had some irritating issues with others when it comes to shipping speed and customer service responses. VooDoo is my absolute first choice because of shipping time and customer service. I have nothing but great things to say about them!
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