The double foot guides are used for more durability in certain conditions - like rough handling. Unless DF's are needed, they add a significant amount of weight to the blank (albeit at the butt end where it matters less). I'd personally prefer single foot all the way on a spinning rig. Pick a handle that feels good to your hand ergonomically. Some really like the VSS seat because they like th
Forum: rodboard

Spencer is right about the differences between the New Guide Concept (NGC) and the K-R Concept (KRC). The two concepts share the location of the Butt guide more or less, but after that, it is different. The KRC places the Belly/choker closer to the reel as part of the Rapid Choke design. If you are following the GPS suggestions, you should be fine. (The 42% will likely place the Bell
Forum: rodboard

If the first guide you are laying out is the Belly/choker/KB guide (and not the Butt Guide), then the measurement distance might make more sense. Just try this: Place the Butt guide (ie. KL-H20) around 20 inches from the spool axel tip at mid stroke. Next, measure from the Butt Guide position to the tip of the rod. Take that measurement and multiply by 0.42. Write this measurement down.
Forum: rodboard

I had the same experience as chris with custom, fabric rod socks. I had some four-piece socks made for a couple fly rods and they turned out great! Custom length, colors....etc. Some can even embroider a name, logo, or art work to go ultra-custom. Price-point matters, I know. It may not be as expensive as you think.
Forum: rodboard

Tolo - Try this: Fuji Guide Train: (1) Fuji KL-H20 (1)KL-H10 (1) KL-H6L (1) KB 5 (9-10) KT-5 (1) LG or LN tip top #5mm ring Spacing: 20H : 20 inches from spool axel tip at mid strike. 10H : 18 inches from 20H 6L : 15.75 inches from 10H KB5 (belly/choker) : 10.69 inches from 6L 1st guide toward reel from tip top : 3.5 to 4 inches from tip top. 2nd guide from tip top : 3.5
Forum: rodboard

This diagram is helpful to me in the context of reel up sweep angle and the NGC and K-R Concept 3-guide specification. Does it matter that much or not? You may be surprised at my conclusions....or not. The diagram shows the spool axis line strikes the blank in the exact same location. The illustration shows the Butt Guide (20H) is placed in the same location and follows the spool axis
Forum: rodboard

John - I use a fly tying bobbin to temporarily affix my guides for testing. Use the bobbin like you are wrapping a guide to secure the guide foot - and you don't have to be that neat and perfect; I will wrap about half of the the guide foot down with overlapping wraps until I feel it is secure. I use a pull-thread to finish the temporary wrap. The key for me is to get my guides really close to
Forum: rodboard

Whatever your blank, guide, and handle choices, here are a couple of micro-small weight-saving tips: 1.) Drill a hole through the trigger of your casting seat as the hook keeper; you don't need to add one. 2.) Trim the threaded barrel of the seat so there are no extra threads and extra material beyond your locking hood with the reel installed. (This is for a no-foregrip design which also save
Forum: rodboard

chris - Thank you for your response. Your past comments on the importance of line size and type in the K-R Concept brought many things together for me when I was first catching on to all this, and some lightbulbs started to go on about why Fuji designed this concept the way it did. The 3+1 is definitely not always the best (or even necessary) layout for guides as you point out....unless the l
Forum: rodboard

chris - I was not intending to direct the spool up sweep issue at you. My apologies if it came across that way. I should have started a new paragraph instead of putting two ideas into only one. I did, however, intend to include you on a comment attributed to you I agree with - that a good layout that casts stiffer line well will cast more supple line even better - so test with a stiffer lin
Forum: rodboard

I love my APFG rods from NFC because they are the lightest weight glass rod out there, and a great taper for fishing cranks. My 744 is amazing with baits like Rapala's DT and OG 4's to 6's. Go with the 745 for larger cranks. Fast tip that flexes into a softer bend with a fish on the end. (744: IP = 447.5 and AA = 80; 745: IP =567.5 and AA = 75). If you like glass, I think there is none better. Do
Forum: rodboard

Norman - How do you go about finding your Butt guide starting point on longer rods for the K-R Concept? What would you consider a "longer rod?" Could you please share an example of how you might go about determining this location on a 3+1 specification for an 8-foot rod? Is this the same procedure for all, longer rods? I played around with the KR GPS for rod lengths of 8, 9,10
Forum: rodboard

Great additions to this thread! This is going to help with the 3+1 learning curve. In my mind, several things can be true at the same time regarding the 3+1 specification: * It is an excellent system for a wide variety of spinning rods of various lengths and powers, not all of them in every circumstance. * The 3+1 specification shares commonalities with the 3-guide specification, the NGC, an
Forum: rodboard

David, Thank you so much for this! I know you were anxious to get this build done - and that pesky work-thing got in your way! I can't wait to read about your casting tests because I have a great feeling about it! I included the address to an image at Angler's Resource to help visualize what I want to ask you in your experience with the 3+1. The diagram is for the 3 guide spec and not the 3
Forum: rodboard

This is a very interesting discovery, Mick! So, it seems epoxy is not like other types of materials that have a 'medium' that 'evaporates' or 'gasses-off' during the drying and curing process? What your are suggesting is that nothing is leaving the mix reaction. All the material is remaining and combining into something new - hopefully a clear, hard, and tack-free substance. This makes m
Forum: rodboard

Thank you, Michael. I believe the fuji eu site was where I originally found this chart, too. It does seem to be bugged out right now. If it is not a hassle, could you please send your pdf to my email address? (click on my name to see my email). Since I have a topic on the forum about the 3+1 K-R specification, I would like to get this graphic posted there. If it is a hassle, don't worry
Forum: rodboard

Michael - Do you have the link to the original source for these charts? I am thinking about those who may want to make a copy. Some of the text is fuzzy and hard to read. Sorry for any hassle! Thank you so much for putting this up! It is the exact thing I wanted!
Forum: rodboard

This is a link to a partial picture of the chart I have a copy of but cannot find like I had done so before. It gives you an idea of what the chart looks like at least for a part of the 3+1 16H group. I'd like to find the whole chart to link to you.
Forum: rodboard

Michael Tarr had access to these charts as I recall.
Forum: rodboard

Jeff, I am looking around for a link to the chart you are referring I myself. I found it before, and mention the "Fuji KRC Chart" in my posts on that thread. I am now trying to find it again! Frustrating! Someone has a link to it. I hope they will help us out. In the meantime, I will keep looking, too.
Forum: rodboard

David, I can always count on you to share your experiences in an honest, thorough, straight forward and specific way. Your input on what guides work or not for the KRC (in your personal experience) is just what I was hoping for! It occurred to me, thanks to Will, there may be builders who see the benefits of the KRC, but wish to approximate it rather than replicate it. This may be for any
Forum: rodboard

Will, Thanks for the update! I want to hear about your experiences with your build! That 16-8-6 RT and #5 running guides should work very well for you with #10 braid! As you have read, I tested leader sizes of #10 to #12 up to 10-foot length. The #17 leader size gave me a bit of pause. How long of a leader at this test would you use? I think it will be okay if your leader knot is going
Forum: rodboard

Will - I am curious about the details of your build! We are a rare few exploring this "3+1" concept with this specific rod at this moment. Please share your thinking for your build! (Grip type and length, reel seat, etc.) What did you find was your final guide group spacing that looked best to you?
Forum: rodboard

Chris, A Warning: I'll usually go on about more than you wanted to know, so please speed-read through the bits that are not relevant to your question. I have NOT thrown a buzz bait with this specific rig because of the rod, NOT because of the guide train. Also, this is my first build with this layout, and I decided to try it out and test it for the first time at some local lakes in early Ma
Forum: rodboard

I looked at some Shimano Expride and NRX rods at a local store the other day. Like Kendall, I have read a lot of good press about the Expride and NRX and wanted to see what all the fuss was about. Mostly, when looking at commercial rods, I am interested in the blank itself. Does it have the action, power, and feel I value for a particular purpose. I have been impressed with some off the rack
Forum: rodboard

David! I will share what I find out about the #10 fluoro line test. I suspect it will work fine with the 16H group, but even better with the 20H group! I want to build my next spin rod with the 20H. I may have an excellent candidate in a re-build of the St. Croix 4C68MXF I mentioned above. Man, that is a dandy rod recommended to me by Bob McKamey a couple or three decades ago! And speaking
Forum: rodboard

Here is ONE layout that will get you started, Ed: Starting Point Placements of the 3+1 Specification for the 20H Guide Group with Vanford 2500 reel: 20H: 19 to 19 3/4 inches from spool axel tip at mid stroke. (For some reason, I have these two measurements written down in two different places for the 20H butt guide. Try them both.) 10H: 8 3/4 inches from front of guide foot of the 20H. 7M
Forum: rodboard

About a month ago, I completed a spinning build using the K-R Concept, 3+1 guide specification, for NFC's SJ 703 X-Ray (C602) blank. I have fished it extensively since then, and wanted to share my experiences and thought process building and fishing this guide specification with this rod. Seems to me, not much has been written about the 3+1 specification, especially with the 16H guide group, and
Forum: rodboard

Give Mud Hole a call. They used to carry logos for the major universities - these were sized to fit on a blank. I purchased some a couple years ago. Their new catalogue does not show them specifically; I don't know if they still carry them or not. Worth a check - they have very good customer service, IME.
Forum: rodboard

Tolo - I surface prep all parts that will be epoxied together, for almost all material types: graphite, aluminum, and plastic. I prep wood also if it has a hard and smooth coating (varnish or high polish). If it has a shine to it, I "de-gloss" it with Scotch Brite. Some metals may not show much change because they are very hard, but I prep them anyway. (I might resort to a 600-8
Forum: rodboard