If you can provide your blank diameter measurements, I can compare them to the 760-1 HM that I have.
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Quick update for anyone interested, got the dragon wrap all pulled off last night. Came off much easier than I expected. We’ll see how try #2 goes on Friday.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Brett, > You don't mention whether you used CP or not. > > For myself I never use CP unless specifically > specified it to be used by a client. > > However, with your dragon wrap, you might find it > very beneficial to use cp on the wrap before every > applying finish. The one
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I keep a pencil-point electric soldering iron > handy when I apply an epoxy coating over windings. > In my experience bubbles, if any, appear right > away, not later. I hold the hot tip of the iron > close to the bubble until it pops, then rotate the > blank until the sag created in the epoxy e
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Brent, > You have received good advice from previous > reliers. Allow me to add that while sanding > scratches will indeed disappear with an additional > coat of epoxy, attempting to remove ALL the > sanding particles may ultimately prove to be (more > of) a problem. Consider shaving-off the o
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After sanding the finish, what should I wipe it down with to clean the sanded particles off?
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Michael Ward- I’m at work right now so I can’t say for sure how well I could do that, I for sure could on at least some of them as I could visibly see them raised at the surface. I’ve got enough prokote for one more coat…after that I’ll be switching to Gen4 light so hopefully that will help me avoid future problems in other builds or if I do end up needing to start over on this dragon scale wrap.
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Before I explain the details of the situation, I’ll say I have done a little research and it seems the main answer is to pull everything off…the epoxy and thread. I’m looking for any possible options to try first before doing that. I put on a first coat of epoxy last night using ProKote original. Mixed well, a few bubbles but no big deal. I applied epoxy to all guides, then onto an inscription
Forum: rodboard

Thanks everyone for the replies, I'm going to stick with the PB731MHXF for this build as I'd have more use for a rod that's heavier than what I'm looking for then I would with a rod that's a bit light, can always build a PB731MXF later if need be. I think I'll try out the LZR guides as well. They should be worth the cost savings over fuji on this build. Brett
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I agree with Michael, the Point Blanks are great > blanks. One of the things about Point Blanks is > that they are very powerful rods for their rating. > For example, when comparing rods with similar > manufacturer ratings, the Point Blank will almost > always be more powerful. A medium rated P
Forum: rodboard

Hi everyone, I'm new to rodbuilding.org and rod building in general. I'm looking at making a casting rod using the PB731MHXF. I'll be bass fishing and it will be an all-around rod that will initially see a lot of 3/8-1/2oz chatterbaits/spinnerbaits/buzzbaits with some 1/2oz and under texas rig and jig use in light cover. I've done a little searching and noticed a number of people here are fans of
Forum: rodboard