Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Luc & others, > That is why I absolutely love a Tennessee Handle > for my lighter trout rods; a 12in TH will afford > 8in-9in of reel position adjustability, is lighter > and more comfortable than just about everything > else, and in a pinch, a fly reel can be employed > as well. ALL of my
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Very best thing you can do is make the rear grip > the proper length for what you're going to be > doing with the rod. > > ........... Exactly. And in order to make that choice I am trying to gather data to know what would best suit me, as I am quite sure I do not hold all the keys to make tha
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Luc, > The actual distance the line is from the blank is > immaterial. However, if you like to measure > things, the distance the line is from the blank > MIDPOINT between the all the runners should be the > same, or at least very close; this is assuming the > runners are the same size and typ
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Before you take somebody else's word about the > optimal distance between the guide and the blank > you should learn what type of line and what > ambient temperatures are assumed when the > line/guides will be used. The performance of 30# > gelspun braid and #30 nylon monofilament varies >
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Are you talking a fly reel, a revolving spool > casting or trolling reel, or a spinning reel? A spinning reel
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After some request of a more accurate way of measuring, I am at 11 inches from the butt to the back of the reel seat.
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roger gleason Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How do you get the guides aligned properly to the > reel seat? I’ve been doing a little reading on > static testing to locate the guides, and they > recommend having the tip glued on to do the > testing, so a weight can be hung on it. Seems > like once is glued on, it is permanent, and would
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That's why both Roger and myself specified rear > grip length in our posts, reel seats and reel feet > are not measurable on an individual basis so I > disregard such info for the most part unless I > have everything on hand. Rear grips are always a > constant. I am not sure I understand. D
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Roger, that was also part of my intention. I still need to wrap everything but as of now I am 5g away from perfect balance (or half inch more in grip length. obviously wrap and epoxy will change that by quite a bit but I haven't glued the split grip yet so I am gain from that. I am also a two hand caster, I just want to make sure I understand everything I loose by choosing a long grip.
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't think everyone is talking about the same > issue and is not using terms with the same > definitions. Let's get specific. Luc, where is > your 13 inches measured from, the reel stem, the > back of the reel seat, the front of the reel seat, > where? If you define that then maybe everyo
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John DeMartini Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Physical benefits (un-disputable facts) > > 1) Less materials, (grip material,adhesive, other > expendables) > 2) Less time in turning and fitting. > 3) Less weight > > Well in my case if I built with a split grip, I will not have those problems. Though I will have to keep it th
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Luc, I assume this is a spinning rod you are > talking about. When you say a 13” handle, is > that from butt to back end of reel seat or to the > front end of the reel seat? It makes a difference > discussing handle length. Also the functional > length of the handle is influenced by reel seat
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Hey! On my first rod when doing the static test I measured the distance between the blank and the line at its furthest point (running guide part) in order to get an accurate placement. I managed to get 7mm / 2/8inches. I am currently doing the static test for my second rod (spinning) and I was wondering what is your max distance from the blank to the line while static testing at 45 degrees?
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Nick McCasey Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > One benefit of shorter grips is that it tangles > less in clothing in cold weather. It's also > dependent on the type of fishing you're going to > be doing. For example, I prefer a shorter handle > on a jerkbait rod for ease of working the bait. Would you still tangle if it does not go above your
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Eric Garza Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Lucas, it so happens I am working on a build > with that exact blank, and the handle will be > exactly the same length (though very minimalist in > its design). As far as the benefits of a shorter > handle, all I can come up with are: > > 1) Allows a longer reach, > 2) Uses less materi
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Hey, I am building my second rod, a perch finesse spinning rod 7.2 revelation ML blank 1/8-3/8oz lure rating. I used the technique I found here to find the grip length, one inch or so away from the elbow. I ended up with a 13 inches grip. From what I gathered the main benefits of a long grip are : Casting distance Balance Better fighting capabilities what would be the benefits of ha
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If weight is an issue, there is absolutely no > reason that you cannot make a grip from > rubberized/composite cork, or even wood, as light > or lighter than regular cork. Here's how: > > > > ....... That is amazing! If only i had known for my first rod. For this one it won't work
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Thank you for your answers, My original plan was plain cork for the grip (split) with part of the butt being rubberized and each end of the split and front grip being burl cork. But it will be heavier than a plain cork with a rubberized butt. So if it serves no purpose apart from decoration I thought it might not be useful, hence my question. Luc
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Hey Michael, I plan to have rubberized cork on the end of the butt grip, for the same reasons you mentioned. I was mostly wondering for burl/rubber cork on the extremities of split grip/front grips like what can be seen on the G.loomis dropshot rods for example. Any thoughts on that?
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Hey! I am currently building a 1/8-3/8oz rod 7'2" for perch and I am trying to achieve somewhat of a light build. (micro guides + 5.6oz ci4 stradic 1000 + 1.9oz rainshadow blank) My question is: Apart from the rubberized cork butt end, is there a real durability benefit in adding burl/rubberized cork accent on the grips or is it purely cosmetic? Looked everywhere for the information
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I am especially interested on a balance rod from the sensibility point of view (from what I read). but yeah I also need to add 2 oz if want it to balance: I ll make a new butt and probably put some tungsten inside.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If your rod is tip-heavy, the thread required to > perform the Forhan wrap isn't the culprit. And if > your rod is tip-heavy, so what? > > .............. Well not much; I'll probably compensate later on. I just did not know how much the locking wrap was useful on the first guides and how much it
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The Forhan wrap won't disturb the balance. The > amount we're talking is absolutely minuscule. It's > simply not an issue in that regard. > > .......... I did it on all my guides. Just a question were talking about the 3 locking wrap or the full 7 from the library?
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Actually Phil, the Forhan lock is more than one > thread , it is two around the guide and more > behind it. Did it change since the article in the library? There it states 7 threads, 1 before, 1 blocking, 3 locking and 2 blocking
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It is rare that fishing itself will ever pull out > or shift a guide. It's pulling rods from rod > lockers and boxes that tend to do that. Rich > Forhan developed his unique locking wrap to stop > that from happening, and it does. As far as adding > weight - give it a hard look. You'd be hard &g
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It's easy to have a tip heavy rod using small > guides. Some blanks are more tip heavy than > others. I have a rod built on an Immortal IMMC72MH > blank that I have a split rear grip on it using > EVA foam as the grip material. It was tip heavy > before I even started putting guides on it. >
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Luc, what i,m trying to figure is how can you have > a tip heavy rod with such small guides on a med. > heavy rod..#5 runners are not heavy.. I am trying too, I don't know how it is tip heavy. I have a split reel seat and a 9" split grip. I currently need to add 3oz to have it balance in my hand.
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I also think using a KW5.5 as the stripper is too > small. You will get line slap. Increase the size > to a KW10 or RV6, to get the line higher off the > blank. > Norm Sorry It is an RW 10 I don't know why I wrote 5.5.
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chris c nash Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Luc siat Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Hej, > > > > I am currently building a 7.2 MH spiral > > baitcasting freshwater (mostly) pike rod. > > For stock reasons I have a double foot Fuji RW > 5.5 > > follows by KT size
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Kent Griffith Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It depends on how you install the guides in the > first place. > > I use the shortest foot micro guides I can buy and > never use locking wraps because of how I install > the guides in the first place. So it depends on > installation technique. I would say no, but others > say yes. It
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