I second the recommendation to get a printer from LRTGroup. Larry is very helpful in setting up your system. Once you get it, you can play around with different looks to match your style and the size/color of the rod. Good luck.
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Thanks for the responses. I am having the Dad over to my house to talk about it (The son is ~30). My plan is to start with how long does he want it to be and work from there. I wouldn't be surprised if he wants a short one. I'm thinking this might be a good time to experiment with building handles (once I find out if he wants a full wells). I saw an off-shore rod at Mudhole built with thin
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Friend saw some of my builds and has asked me to make a fly rod for his son. They have a vacation house in north Georgia and do a lot of fly fishing. He's asked me to do a 3 or 4wt rod. Beyond that, we haven't met to get any of the specifics. I've never done a fly rod and know little about fly fishing. What should I ask him? How much decoration (wraps, weaves, etc) can I put on it? Any o
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Thanks. I'm not likely to be building this rod until July, but I will keep everyone posted. Brian
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"But you shouldn't have any knots running down to the reel. Why are you using mainline to leader knots for bass? Are you putting fluoro on the end?" I generally don't use leaders, but the BFS video I watched suggested doing so because the lightness of having braid backing would allow the lighter weights to cast better. I'm skeptical myself, but the whole idea is kind of wild anyway.
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My next rod is going to be on a Northfork Composites MB 662-1 and I want to set it up as a bait finesse system rod (BFS=light setup but a casting reel if you didn't know). Is this too light/too short for spiral guides? I mostly fish for bass, and am tempted to break some "rules" with this rod. Also, would using a spiral wrap mean that mainline to leader knots would catch on the gu
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To everyone, thanks for the discussion. It has really been helpful. Ron, you are correct, I was asking about the P-Touch because I already have one. Based on the comments here and elsewhere, I think I will pass on that. That leaves me here: 1. I am not sure I'm going to give up on handwriting just yet. I do have a pack of Gelly Roll pens in "Moonlight" that I am unsatisfied with
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Would a high DPI inkjet printer work with regular clear labels? B
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Has anyone used Brother P-Touch labels to make custom labels? I have one and want to try it out. Is it suitable? If it is mostly suitable, is there something I can do to make it work (like cover the ends with silk)? Thanks in advance.
Forum: rodboard

Thank you. I would have liked to think I would not need for TOS, but on this rod (an MHX Extreme Taper) I apparently do. I had way too much gap on the big end to just burnish it out. Brian
Forum: rodboard

Just had to pull off my first attempt at a closed wrap, and I need some help. I have figured out that my mistake was not adjusting the spacing due to the taper of the rod. That leads me to my question: Is there a layman's explanation for how to translate the rod diameter/circumference to the Spacing Charts in the back? I would like to do the Rose pattern on page 73. Based on my first attem
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<p>An example of the problems I'm having with a multicolor weave.</p>
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I do think there is one blue thread that might be wrapped around a yellow. The bigger issue is how to make sure the other yellow threads are on top before I start the second letter. I just can't seem to get the yellow threads to butt cleanly against the wrapping thread. With a lot of the threads, I can make the transition earlier, and I could see if that helps. But, in the middle, I only h
Forum: rodboard

So, I'm trying to do a two-color weave of a logo for my brother. The logo requires long straight vertical lines. So, I put in two layers of thread on the rod; I would be using the blue first, so I made it the top layer. How do I make the straight line on the goldenrod part without having the blue slip through? I did try to switch the gold and blue on the loom, so that the gold was on the top,
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So, I ended up going to a golf shop and getting a kit. It worked great. The only problem I ended up with is that I ended up slightly over reaming the rear grip. When I put it on, I then pushed it farther than I expected. So, now I have a weave that is not centered: 20mm to the fighting butt/14mm to the rear grip. I will figure out some asymmetrical decoration to make it look good. Always lear
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I am fully aware of the concept of a "company whose philosophy . . . jives with my preferences." I have sat in vehicles and said "nope" just from looking at the dashboard. I am a tuba player, and I have done the same thing: some brands just aren't what I am looking for. I will consider myself something beyond a beginner when I can really recognize what "my preferences&
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Tom, Thank you. That's what I need to know. I guess I have some more reaming to do. Brian
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Thanks for letting me join. I have a newbie question. I am building a rod with a weave pattern between split grips. Based on advice elsewhere, I have completed the weave and will soon put on the grips. I don't want a lot of epoxy, so I am attempting the taping method. Most of what I have read is that Winn Grips (and all EVA, for that matter) need to be reamed out to a diameter slightly
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