I happened into this fly rod and I dont consider myself a fly expert. I am definitely not a bamboo guy. Is this a rod worth taking to a dedicated professional or is it a good first bamboo restoration project? My friend brought it to me and I don't want to steer him wrong. It needs stripped, guides, and the seat needs work. I can post pictures later if needed.
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The numbers will definitely change in actual CCS because CCS uses % of deflection as the constant. So the 33% deflection requires more weight at full length vs. cut length because you have to deflect a longer distance in inches than the shorter version of the same blank.. So naturally the AA (as measured by CCS) goes down with less weight because you are not stressing the rod the same. I do not d
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Not to shill for NFC but, I love the soft touch CF with the light cores. Reason: Very light, extremely durable, feels good in hand unlike other molded carbon grips that can hurt on pressure points. If it isn't soft touch then I am using cork. Reason: Good grip, light, Beautiful, and timeless. Not as durable as the above but not a problem when cared for.
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I agree, your comparison numbers change based on your CCS constant of flex percentage. But that is exactly what I am saying to look past to understand what I am saying. In measure for comparison, CCS is great. But when actually using this rod (or any) the CCS does not tell the whole story. Because casting and working these baits should never flex the rod into the bottom 60%. Only when a fish i
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Aaron, > > That's simply incorrect. If the blank is shorter > after trimming, then the percentage of the blank > that flexes under the same lure weight, even if it > is the same distance from the tip, increases. The > action has become slower. And the frequency has > almost certainly inc
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're saying. Are > you saying the AA numbers for the action change, > but the actual blank action itself does not? > > If so, The idea that the only change is in the > measurements (the numbers) and not the actual > blank is incorrect. The reason the CCS wi
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Patrick Coco Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm looking for some information on how the XRay > mb765 neo will behave when cut down to 6'9". > > I understand that it was somewhat designed to be > cut down to this length, but I also know anytime > you remove that much blank it has to have some > impact on the power and action of
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It changes the action and power regardless of the > CCS, or anything else for that matter. Here's the > problem - let's say the original blank flexed > initially mostly in the upper 1/4 of its length. > When you cut a few inches from the bottom, that > percentage increases beyond whatever it was
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It will change the action and power as measured by CCS. The last half of the blank will still flex identically if using weight as the constant instead of deflection percentage.
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I am a little late here but I love this topic and it includes my favorite rod. The SJ703. It is my favorite Jerkbait rod I have fished so far. Just not for 110's. I find the SJ703 too light for 110's. It loads too much when working so it doesn't start or stop sharp enough. It has enough power to bring them in and keep the light wire hooks pinned but hooking up will be tougher than when working
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My current favorite I throw on is a MB765 NEO. I can really sling them in combination with my Shimano DC reels. Good strong blank for setting and a deep bend for pinning the fish.
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I leave a nice straight edge about 1/16" past the thread to make sure it is sealed.
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Fuji KR with an RV stripper. Size your runners according to line and purpose. IE RV, KB, (KB or KT), KT runners. If you don't like the RV then replace it with a KW. If you are looking for ring sizes then sharing what line and other details may be required. I typically run down to a 4.5 or 5KT.
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Did the site get a new sponsor? I somehow missed this one on the sidebar.
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Now I know what you meant about the sanding. Sorry about that. I did have to finesse the foam to fit the AT hood. When you paste epoxy it up just pre coat the foam under the hood if you feel it necessary. The amount that will push down from the walls should more than suffice. With the winding check you don't need to fill that at all. just paste it to the handle and rod ensuring a seal.
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On the canal if we were waiting to load up I would grab a trolling rod and sling Buzz Bombs from the point by Whitney Shellfish Lab. I caught many backlashes and a few fish as a kid.
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The grips are just the all black Winn Grips. This particular build the angler is in love with them. The Winn products are definitely a love hate kind of thing. I personally prefer soft touch carbon grips but don't mind the Winn on my personal glass rods.
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Pro wrap 343 (burgandy) crimson 813 (silver shiner) gray in mettalic I used 9300 red and it looks great after finish is applied. see here
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@Al I did not have to sand anything to fit. Perfect fit.
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Sorry. I got super busy and havent responded timely. I will set a phone reminder to look at the colors tonight.
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Congratulations on the child!
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Back when Mudhole had the team kits I ordered some. I have them at home. If no one else chimes in by this evening I will let you know. I have done a handful of Bama rods. WAR EAGLE!
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There are at least two goals for rod building: (1) > to catch fish (2) to display artistic > achievements. These two are not always > complimentary. I agree. Also, sometimes there is beauty in the simplicity of performance too. Good to see you back Phil E. I hope you have been well.
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I started with Pro-Kote from a MudHole kit. I used it for a while and started using Flex Coat when I got curious. I am currently working through some Gen 4 that was tried out of the same curiosity. I am satisfied with the results from all three. I have applied all three with nylon brushes, hair brushes, and spatulas. -John C, you now have me curious about your brushes. I will have to give the
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I kind of miss Phil E. when I see threads like this.
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Thanks for the units Joe. That was what I could not find in my research. I knew the modulus of elasticity numbers in psi but couldn't reverse any math to correlate what Tons were. The metric ton got me.
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@Marc Sorry the email keeps failing to deliver. Essentially it was from someone who compared a few manufacturers and found the following. Take with a grain of salt. Unsure of the source. IM6 = 36 million modulus = 24 ton IM7 = 40 million modulus = 30 ton IM8 = 44 million modulus = 36 ton
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I found an article while researching I will forward to your email. As far as SM, IM, HM; There is no standard to my knowledge. Most companies use this to compare their own product lines.
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@Daryl I fail to see how I made your point. I did not post it on page one. I was simply connecting with another person here through coincidence. I simply thought it was neat I found a post in which you can see how far our passion has come by challenging, in this case, even our own ideas through research. A lesson can be learned through our history. Otherwise why note delete everything over a f
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El Bolinger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > I see no problem with creating another > spine/straight axis thread or how many guides > thread or my epoxy isn't doing what I tell it to > thread - because we want current perspectives and > ideas and experiences and current member input My mind is blown! I was literally looking through
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