Frog Tape multi-surface doesn't let anything bleed. I use it to restore lapidary machines especially where epoxy and epoxy paint is involved.
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After I read all the whining about not being able to find anything in the Portland OR area I decided to cold call all the fly shops (there are surprisingly few for a city our size). I hit gold with Great American Tackle Shop in Clackamas across from the Fred Meyer. I've parked practically in front of it many times (it's next door to a dirt cheap sushi place and the liquor store lol) but it was al
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There was an article posted on a thread that I found with a test of how trying to align the blank effected the finished rod. While it wasn't an exhaustive study the takeaway was that for all practical purposes it wasn't necessary for today's blanks. I just finished a 5 wt that it would have taken a wizened builder to even find the spine or the axis. I gave up after 15 minutes of trying every meth
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I ended up using a minuscule brush to cover the decal and a couple mm around it with Flex Coat. Looks good :)
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In general then what do people use to coat a decal and how do they do it? I coated the blank with Klass Kote which I'm almost positive will destroy the sticker. I'm doing Flex Coat on my wraps but I'm afraid that if I try to put it on the sticker it will just turn into an ugly mess on the turner. I suppose I could roll the epoxy all the way around the blank covering the sticker but I'm afraid tha
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This is an old topic but I thought I'd revive it. I've seen references to embroidery thread as being suitable for wrapping. But they mention that it has a coating (seems like wax and silicone are both mentioned). Also I see that sewing machine type thread is a bad idea. I too have this exact situation, except in my case I can't get anything in the mail before I need to wrap up the build (pun inte
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The grip end should be the same or larger in OD > than the seat. You may be OK. > > ............ It just irks me because it just doesn't look right and I'm concerned about chipping it if it gets whacked from behind. Weird that all the other grips I have bought were more or less exactly the diameter o
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I bought a Angler's workshop kit and it came with a grip that is way flared out on the butt end. It's 3 mm larger than the reel seat hood. Should I be concerned about that? Every other rod I have built had a grip that was correctly sized. If I want to sand it down is there a best way to do it and keep it round without a lathe? The only thing I can think of is to put it over something like a drill
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Sorry but every time I try to quote someone it says there's a word that I can't use. So, maybe I have a different product. From the can: KLASS KOTE "superior quality" urethane system PART-A Component Urethane clear. Use only with urethane catalyst". I searched for it and it seems to be popular among the car restoration crowd I suppose as a clear coat over the paint. Anyway I like t
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The Clemens Crystal Coat was sold and used as a > wrap finish, so I see no problem using the Klass > Kote as a wrap finish. Should work just fine. As a > note, when I used to use Crystal Coat, I would put > the leftover mix in the freezer and used it the > next day for the second coat. > N
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Thanks everyone for the advice, I used a utility knife blade with an abundance of caution. One coat of urethane looks surprisingly good and I don't want to add too much more weight :)
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Cool I just did it and I forgot that the drying time for the stuff was 0 minutes lol. I'll probably do another coat just to be sure. It's not like you can see it has little waves in it from more than 2 feet away :) Looks 10x better than the 800 grit sanded blank! Do you think it would be acceptable for sealing wraps? Again I'm not looking for something that looks like it's covered in morning dew
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Forgive me if I'm being dense here but I can't find any posts specifically relating to using the Klass Kote 2 part urethane to coat a blank. Does the procedure for Flex Coat here apply? I've never heard of using a coffee filter before.
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Yes I did, I couldn't find one specifically mentioning removing an epoxy coating. I'm not necessarily looking to delete the coating, just get rid of the mess left behind by cutting off the guides. One more question, when I'm refinishing all of it including the guide wraps do I do the blank first or wrap them and then do it. I see suggestions to go both ways. It will get urethane anyway, I am not
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Rod manufacturers do not us epoxy to coat blanks! > If it is epoxy someone else did > it....................big mistake! Heating the > epoxy as Roger state, softens it so that scaping > it is easier, but caution is needed so as to not > soften epoxy used to roll the blank fibers! > > T
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Thanks for all that, one question, when scraping how do I know how far to go? When it's no longer shiny? Then sand until I see black on the paper? Seems to me that would be easier to know when to stop.
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But from what i read the last thing you want to do is sand the graphite itself. Is that incorrect?
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Hello, I am stripping an old graphite build and putting on new guides. I'm using single foots so I need to get rid of the finish at least around the guides and I think it would be best to replace it altogether. I see conflicting advice and a video that looks like a very bad idea (essentially scraping it off on a fast turning lathe). From what I can find sanding even a little bit of the graphite o
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