My current flipping stick is 7' 10". Years before that I used a 7' 6" successfully flipping. I don't feel you would find 7' 6" too long.
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My current flipping stick is 7' 10". Years before that I used a 7' 6" successfully flipping. I don't feel you would find 7' 6" too long.
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I recently built on a P904-MHX from Mudhole. It is a 7' 6" and is listed as a popping rod from MHX. This summer I had a night under the lights that I caught 22 redfish from 33" to 42" on 3" glow cocaho minnows on 1/8 oz jigheadss. The MHX rod handled them all nicely. It is rated for 1/4 oz to 5/8 oz lures and the current price is $82. It was all catch and release but lot
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I always use a lighter pound test leader to braid. That way when I break off, it's cheaper leader material, not expensive braid. Makes my braid last for years.
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Have gotten good results with the Flex Coat epoxy cleaner.
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My APPOLOGIES to NORM. I have done it so long without thinking that I went out into the garage and retied a leader with the Alberto to be sure. I trim the mono tag end short ( just like Norm suggested)... to the point that it doesn't exist anymore. Hence the knot goes through the guides very smoothly. Again, I was wrong and Norm was right.
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I agree with you David, but, I do think orientation of the tip top has affects direction of cast more than any other guide. I also agree with Phil that a competent caster can effectively compensate for any rod shortcoming or quirk if an odd casting behavior exists.
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Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can always take off but > you can't add. Truth. That's why you go slowly when you get any where close while reaming.
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Laughing.... when I was in school, some version of a slide rule was the only thing that existed. Calculators came later.
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > this results in a hard tag end in front of the knot which is prone to hanging up. > Norm NOT TRUE. If you have a hard tag end in frontt (or behind) of an Alberto Knot you aren't tying it right. Although the Alberto IS a little thicker, in actual use it goes through all but the tiniest of guides with ease
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Another vote for the Alberto knot. Doesn't have the problem with lighter leaders. I find it easier to tie than the FG, especially at night and I fish a LOT at night. Goes through the guides well. I too wind the knot all the way onto my bait casters like Lynn. FG is very small diameter knot and is supposed to be slightly stronger.
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That's a tensioner for the spool (which is also quite useful and NEVER gets in my way). We were talking about tension device on the line feeding from the spool of thread.
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I have also had good luck with the Pac Bay Minimas for guides.
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Frank Domino Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- I started my rod building with the CRB thread wrapper that has the orange fiberglass rod and it recently broke. Mudhole has the spare tension rod with tip top installed for $3.95. Not difficult at all to replace. I have installed it on a Pac Bay wrapper and it works well. I too started with the little orange f
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Hi Bob. The line is what pulls the guides to the bottom of the blank and creates torque on the rod. A force that its always there when you have a fish on. Spinning rods have the guides on the bottom of the blank and don't suffer from this effect. A conventional bait caster with the guides on top (traditional way to build them) will certainly land big fish but it is more efficient with t
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Robert A. Guist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- "they shouldn't go below the blank in any build accept spinning" ??? By 'they' do you mean the guides? If so, I disagree. All guides want to be on the bottom of the blank under load (when you have a fish on). This is the basis for the "spiral or revolver" wrap on conventional bait cast
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I like full handles.
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John DeMartini Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- "Another factor to consider is how pronounced the spine is, if you are lucky enough to get a blank that has a spine that is difficult to find or even better non-existent then it doesn't matter where you place the guides, if you get a blank with an aggressive spine then guide location is an issue and the spine ha
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Addressing the original post. the spiral is more efficient on a bass bait caster, but there is not enough torque involved with most bass to make that much real difference. As far as how I accomplish this, I use a guide on top, then one at 60 degrees followed by a guide at 120 degrees and then a guide on the bottom of the rod. I spiral in the direction the rod handle is placed on. Although I am
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I agree the spiral is of no benefit in this situation. It is also of no detriment in this situation. Which way the top guide is pointed makes no difference when the tip is underwater.
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Most use blanks that are rated to cast 1/8 or 1/4 oz to 5/8 or 3/4 oz lures. Some a little lighter, some a little heavier. I throw 1/8 oz jig heads to 3/4 oz spoons and everything in between. Topwater's in the 1/2 to 5/8 oz range are the most fun for me, but I catch more numbers pm the soft plastics. Most any rod that fits the budget can me made to work effectively. I go with the best that
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