The slate series seems to have the same line and lure weight ratings as all of the Rainshadow inshore popping rods. I’ve built on that blank plenty of times, so I’m just looking for someone with experience with both blanks to compare the two.
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I’m hoping someone can help me out with info on the Get Bit blanks. I’m going to be building a couple of giveaway rods, and I’m hoping someone can give me a little bit of a comparison with a blank I’ve used before. Let’s just say you were comparing it to a Rainshadow RX6 or Revelation popping blank... similar in power/action? What about the overall weight of the blank. I’m sure they’d be heavier,
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David, I have used heavier wire treble hooks in the past. I almost always upgrade my treble hooks. I personally like an EWG, so if the lure doesn’t come with EWG hooks, they get replaced. Usually to KVD triple grips.
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Keep in mind that what you will get here are > opinions and personal preferences. While there > are those that swear by straight glass, I'm not > one of them. Graphite can do anything that glass > can do and do it lighter. If you want to try > something different I recommend a blend. >
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As of now I have never used a fiberglass or a “blend” type rod. Only graphite for me.... but I’ve been wanting to build a new cranking rod and thought of giving one of them a try. Any advice on a good blank that won’t break the bank? Will mostly be for fishing squarebills and occasional lipless cranks shallow and making accurate casts to the bank. Nothing bigger than 7 ft. Should I try a straigh
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Steve, Thanks for your input. The blanks have the same power, action and weight rating so I figured they would be similar. A few years ago, I probably would’ve went with a 7’6” blank for this build, but I’ve recently started using shorter rods. Another idea I had was the 6’8” Revelation blank specifically designed for squarebills and making the handle a few inches shorter. Think that would be gr
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I’m still pretty new to rod building, but apparently my fishing buddies like the work I do lol. If I get my money back for parts I feel like I’m doing ok. I’m probably right at 50 total builds since I started and I only have 6 or 7 of them in my arsenal. Pretty interested to see how this build turns out. My build on the REVCB70M is great for 1.0 and “finesse” squarebill cranks (usually 1/4oz or l
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Thanks Joe. Very helpful info. I’m noticing that the popping blank seems slightly “heavier” than the CB blank. A little beefier all the way through from the butt to the tip. The popping blank also seems to have a more parabolic bend to it as opposed to the CB. Might turn out to be a nice lipless blank. I think I’m going to build it out exactly like my current setup and see how it does. Sinc
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Joe Vanfossen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Phil, > > The preferred action for a lipless crank bait rod > is the same as a rod for traditional diving plugs. > Both lure classes typically involve two free > swinging treble hooks attached to a weighted body. > Jumping fish can often put enough slack in the > line during their ae
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I recently sold off some of my older personal builds and I’m looking to build myself another squarebill rod. My current #1 squarebill setup is built on a REVCB70M. Love this setup for 1.5 and 1.0 size lures. I found a REVIP70M left over that I haven’t built on yet. Wondering how this blank would stack up against the CB70M. I can always do what I usually do when a build doesn’t pan out like expect
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I like to use the 10T followed by a 6T, then 4wF > runners. This puts the stripper a little higher > off the blank for better line flow. I also like to > use a ceramic tip top as protection against > grooving. > Norm Norm, I was planning on using the FXT model on the tip. I was back and fo
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Phil, Could just be a “confidence” thing, but I feel like micro guides improve my casting distance a little. I also like the added sensitivity and weight reduction that comes with micro guides. Not as much of a sensitivity thing with lipless cranks, but pretty much all of my casting rods have micro guides.
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Joe, I have a REVCB70MH. I use the MH model loaded with 15 or 16# when I go with the “ripping it out of the grass” technique. I’m planning on using the M model specifically for burning the lure close to the surface. I’ll more than likely have 12# FC on it exclusively.
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Christian Gerstner Jr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I’m starting on another lipless crankbait build. > Going to use a PacBay Mjnima guide train on a > Rainshadow REVCB70M to throw 1/4oz traps and UL > Rippin Raps. I was thinking about using one size 6 > Model T and size 4 Model F’s the rest of the way > with a size 4 top. Not sure if thi
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I’m starting on another lipless crankbait build. Going to use a PacBay Mjnima guide train on a Rainshadow REVCB70M to throw 1/4oz traps and UL Rippin Raps. I was thinking about using one size 6 Model T and size 4 Model F’s the rest of the way with a size 4 top. Not sure if this is the best layout, so any help is greatly appreciated.
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I found two rods that I had left by a buddy’s house almost 2 years ago when I stopped by to see him today. Both were lower end inexpensive rods that I had bought when I first got into bass fishing. I actually really like the blanks... plus they’d be great as spares, but I figured I’d go ahead and upgrade the components and put my own personal touch on them. One is a 7’ medium/fast Halo StarLite a
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Norm, Would go with 9 guides (+ tip top) on the popping cork setups? And do you prefer the KB or KT’s?
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Thanks for all the help guys! I was thinking of using size 5 runners because he ties flouro leaders straight to his braid and I want to keep knot stress to a minimum.
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I’m currently building two inshore popping rods for my dad and one of his buddies. Both are M-MF rods. One is 7’1” and the other is 7’4”. I know my Dad uses 2500 series reels, and I’m pretty sure his friend does as well. He might use a 3000 but definitely not larger than that. I’ve seen some setups with the KL model guides and some with the KL-H. I built a 7’ M-XF wacky rig spinning rod for bass
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