I've got to believe that was some sort of joke. The part where he's just applying that two part epoxy all over the wrap. guide frame and ceramic insert was just bizarre. Surely there are folks on his staff or even friends involved that would have questioned him putting that out there. Maybe it's part of a ploy to attract viewers. Add that to the list of things I've seen that I didn't understand.
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I built a 3 wt for my son a month or so back. Was in similar predicament. I ended up buying a "custom" Clear Creek Fishing Gear cloth covered tube direct from Clear Creek. I had them embroider his name on tube. Took a couple weeks to receive (due to embroidery work). Very pleased with finished product. Wasn't "inexpensive" but for my situation it was what I was looking for.
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Thanks for all the very helpful comments/info.
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Thanks John!
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Thank you. I've got to remember to check the library!!!!!!!!! It's a newbie thing......
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I'm building an 8wt graphite rod and plan to install a Rec RFTS aluminum reel seat. In this situation, looking at the ID of the RFTS, I'm a bit concerned with how slick the machined aluminum surface is (glass like). I plan to install a urethane foam arbor and ream to fit blank. I am not an epoxy bonding expert. Should I lightly scuff the ID of the RFTS to enhance bond between shim and reel seat I
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I have. I've built several spinning rods in my first year of building rods and I have one rod that on occasion the line will get hung up on the keeper. Fortunately it is a standard small closed loop keeper (no damage to line but I do have to "unhook" it before reeling). What I haven't been able to determine is why it's happening. The rod it happens on is a PB701MLF. I built a PB701MF at
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Scott, I'm a relatively new builder myself and have struggled with this issue as well. As Phil mentions, there are a bunch of threads over the last many years discussing this issue. We aren't alone. There is a video over on the Flex Coat website under Instructional Videos titled "Applying Flex Coat Rod Wrapping Finish". If you jump down to last couple minutes of that video there is s
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Same color pattern on mine. Unfortunately I haven't built mine out nor have I run it thru CCS testing. Mine weighed in at 3.30 oz also. I plan to build as a spinning rod and pair it with 4000 or 5000 reel to fish heavy cover for snook. I believe I will also use it for nearshore permit fishing when soaking crabs.
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Another source of blank to blank varability of the > same model may very likely be due to differences > in blank sanding. > Norm Excellent point. Very interesting. I suspect you are referring to sanded at manufacturer. Out of curiosity Norm, have you ever checked IP of blank you might have sanded
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I'm using a Craftsman #39829 torpedo level. It's "newer" than most of my torpedo's so bubble view is crystal clear. It is notched on bottom which is very helpful. Norm, I'm being as careful as I can to get 100% repeatability. It's not perfect but I believe it's sufficient for what I'm trying to achieve. Appreciate the feedback again gents.
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Thomas - Since I was all set up I grabbed the "medium" raw blank and went back out to test your theory. I never gave it a thought when I loaded the blank to test the first two times. I had not thought about that possibility and since there's no time like the present, here are my results. I found no measurable difference on this blank between IP measuring on spine and on straightest axis
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I am at the 10% support point every time (without being completely anal). I have butt location marks on my jig for 78", 84" and 90" rods/blanks (my common rod lengths). I'm as perfectly level as my eyes are capable of calculating when applying the level to the blank just ahead of the foregrip (20 years ago I'd have probably been "more level"). I am deflecting it downward
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Norm - All valid points, concerns and things I tried to address when building the jig and getting repeatability built in to my system. I built my jig with modified 1.25" diameter dowels creating a cam type system to be able to "lock in" either a finished rod grip or a raw blank. I've been pleased with it's performance. Did my best to keep error issues minimized. Thanks for chiming
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I tested the built "medium light" finished rod this morning. Comparing it to the raw blank that I have (exact same model) from yesterdays testing, I have a difference in IP of 4%. Again, the finished rod has a higher IP than the raw blank. I concur that adding components to a raw blank will lower power/stiffness, speed and in turn IP. Based on that, the difference in IP of these blan
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Yes, measurements from two different blanks (same model), one naked and one built. Sorry I didn't make that clear. I bought 2 of same at same time. Built one and haven't built 2nd one yet. Tested each today, twice (because I thought "this is weird"). Couldn't understand why so different. I have same scenario in Medium Light flavor (same mfg as those above). One built, one not built.
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Greetings. I've been building rods for just over a year now. I've got a few under my belt. I build inshore saltwater spinning and casting along with fly rods for both salt and fresh (trout in NC). I build for myself, friends and family. As one of those people that likes details and data I have started to work with the Common Cents System. I've built myself a fixture for supporting rods in a repet
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Been building for about a year. Subscribed to RodMaker a month or so ago and received my first issue just the other day. I attended ICRBE back in Feb and picked up a few copies of back issues while there. Most definitely a well put together publication. I find it to be well worth the very reasonable price. Thanks to all those involved in its publication.
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I bought this one based on recommendations I believe I read here....must say I've been pleased with it. The LED light part of it is useless but comfort and magnification options work well. I had table mount type but constantly having to move it was frustrating (I still have it mounted just only use in certain situations).
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No time like the present for a first post. I'm new to rod building (first rod built July of this year). I've now built seven. I'm throwing my 2 cents in because I'm on a similar search. I understand your comment about overbuilding or building too light. I've always looked for the perfect rod without it being too light (I have no interest in prolonging the battle - right tool for the job type appr
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