Thanks for the tips everyone, for anyone in the future, what I would do differently is this, Use a heat gun on the but cap - and put tape or cover somehow the locking ring from the heat. To get the lock ring unstuck, need to add heat, and work ring back and forth to separate metal from Oring. I needed to use a dremel on the end of the reel seat, instead of cutting off, I was able to gri
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Francis Santangelo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Is the IS601L too light for bass? I built my bfs rod on the crb 601L, it bombs 1/8 oz online spinners, it can’t cast anything in the 3/8 oz range well as the rod gets over-loaded. Great blank for light lures.
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So I got myself in a pickle and keep digging myself in deeper. I assembled and epoxied up my fly rod handle and reel seat, and lo and behold, the bottom ring that holds the reel foot is upside down. So I looked up how to remove the but cap which was epoxied on, and stuck the end in a bag and in boiling water. That didn’t work so I put it over the open flame of the gas stove and it popped ri
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For example: I have a cork handle picked out that has an inlet bore of 21mm and I have a reelseat wih a recessed inlet 22mm. Would these be able to be worked together?
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Hello, Quick question for maybe some more experienced builders than I. I am building a few fly rods, the question is - If I am buying a cork handle that has a recessed inlet to allow an uplocking reel seat - Do I need to make sure the size matches up exactly with the reel seat or can it afford to be off by a MM one way or the other? Thanks, Chris
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I built a glossy green 5wt fly rod, and my BIL chose the thread. He chose Chartreuse and it turned out really really nice.
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > As the handle is far removed from the portion > doing most of the swinging it is not as critical > weightwise. Many of us that build wood grips > hollow out approximately 3/4" diameter and fill it > with foam reel seat cores. This greatly reduces > the weight! Thanks, that is very hel
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If these are to be "working" rods I suggest you > use short wraps on your guides and add as little > extra weight as possible. Avoid embellishment. > Weight slows a rod down and tires the caster. With > false-casts and line pick-ups the fly caster tires > his casting arm several times
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Chris > Your email is hidden.so I can't contact you > directly. > I have 2 fly rod blanks that may interest you. > One is a 9'0", 4 piece Dan Craft #5. > The 2nd is a ('0", 4 piece Gatti (italy) #6. > The Gatti was $240 and the Dan Craft was $220. > Both have been in my rack
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Hi all, I am looking to build a pair of fly rods, one for me and one for the brother in law. Looking for suggestions on a good budget blank that will make a nice rod. Neither of us are 'avid' fly fisherman so we don't need anything fancy - just looking for an affordable, quality, lightweight rod blank. ($50-$80 range) I hear the suggested universal size is 9 ft 5 wt, does that sound about
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Jonathan Hotham Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Chris, a good 80% of my time spent fishing is from > a kayak. My wife and I probably do 60-90 days a > year. I used to think I wanted "that blank" for > the kayak, but atleast for me a single blank is > not ideal. Infact in my opinion all the advantages > of multiple rods on a bass
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What's your favorite handle material? Are you a traditionalist and prefer cork? Maybe you like the tacky grip of the Winn handles. Maybe a plain black EVA is more your style. Have you gone to the dark side and built with carbon fiber materials? Let's here some of your favorite handles and why you like them! Feel free to post opinions on handle materials you don't like too!
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Oh, yeah I always fish with a sticky sharp hook. Life's too short not to. I'm lucky if I get to fish 3-4 times a month, and that's only in the summer, so I make sure to take advantage of the time I get on the water. I'll upgrade hooks on a lot of my hardbaits. What I'm more looking for is advice on a good blank to fit my needs. I'm trying to find a happy medium for a rod that will have some be
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Hello, I've decided to embark on my next rod build and would like some help in deciding on a blank. I will be building this rod for the purpose of bass fishing from a kayak. This will be my go to All-purpose rod for kayak fishing.I would like a blank that is between 6'6" and 7'. I plan on using this rod for light Texas rigs, spinner baits, bladed jigs, squarebill crankbaits, and topwat
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Hi guys, First of all, I want to thank everyone on this forum who has responded to my previous questions. This forum and the members have been a great resource to learn from and is a big reason I've come this far. I've built 3 rods so far and just finished the first one that was for myself. It is a 6 foot light action casting rod built on a CRB IS601L blank. I caught one fish on it before I
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I am ordering a size 17 Fuji PTS reel seat and the corresponding carbon insert and am wondering about what to use as an arbor to attach it to the rod. I'd like to use a "shim-style" arbor as that is what I've used in the past, but I'm not sure what size to order since there is the carbon tube in there. The blank I'm working on is a Light power so it is a small diameter. I'm sure this is
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Thanks, Do you have any preferencess for ink, pen, and nib? What brands/styles, colors, sizes, etc should I be looking at?
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Hi, I'm new to rod building and seeking advice on the best way to get custom text onto a rod blank. I am planning on building mostly for others, so I would like to add text such as "Custom Built for John Smith" and messages of the like. I really think they add a personal touch. My question is what is the best way to achieve this? My first build I bought a decal from mudhole and it w
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