I always use white Speedball acrylic ink with a pen and nib combination. It’s waterproof and doesn’t run under any top coat.
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Sometimes projects are one step forward and two steps backwards. It’s all about correcting, coping and keeping keeping on.
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Does anyone know if Arcane is discontinuing these? Arcane shows zero stock and Mudhole has limited sizes. These are my go to for freshwater flyrods, it’d be sad if they stopped making them.
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Thanks Paul, Ed sorted me out.
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Thanks for the input, David
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'Morning all. I'm organizing for a pair of 4wts on some CTS blanks in FERN GREEN and am looking over thread options. I did a Sage blank years ago using Gudebrod 0207 or 001-207 which was black and yellow twist but am not confident that the remnant of the spool will do 2 rods. (the tyranny of 100yd spools). The yellow had the effect of going invisible so the black/white is an option I suppos
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Herb is GTG
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The tubes came from REC, I’ll ask them if they still have the engraving.
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A few years back I picked up a number of aluminum tubes from a company that laser engraved the caps with whatever graphic you sent them. I had them marked with the rod name, weight, etc. Is anyone currently doing this? Thanks, David
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Thanks Herb, helpful. I’m a long time west system user for all sorts of things. Totally endorse it. David
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Black wraps with a black/silver trim, black furniture all the way. Red with same. Gray with red 3+/- wrap accents, silver/aluminum furniture. Method is a great blank. Consider single foot REC guides and Ti frame strippers. That’s my go to. D
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Try these Mill 5/8” centers in 2-3” diameter nylon discs, consider grooving the outer rim for an o ring and mount on s 1/4 bolt. I’d buy a set of 8 or 12 if you,re making. ;)
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Sometimes building something, anything, is just a steady recovery from a series of small mistakes. Have a beer, set the rod aside for a few weeks and get back after it.
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Had that problem yesterday, just used individual pieces for the inlays. I was surprised when it jumped off the spool.
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I,ve found diluting or thinning the CP with 1:4 denatured alcohol is very helpful.
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Question -are there problems with putting another layer of a thread epoxy like Flexcoat over an older layer done a few years back? I was looking at an older 3 wt that I did and, looking at it from today's perspective, thought that I'd do another coat if I were presently working on it. So curious when I have some epoxy mixed for another project if its a bad idea to run out another coat. D
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I thought I'd follow up and report on this. The recommendation from an other builder was "paint thinner, a soft cloth and some rubbing. So I wetted an old piece of shirt and rubbed the heck out of the end of the blank that would be under the cork as a test. The thinner, naptha in my case, didn't do anything to the finish, even after rubbing in some heat. So, I went to work on the logo i
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The spine and the straightest axis are not > necessarily 180 degrees opposite each other. > > Deadlight capacity is rarely an issue on the > backcast where loads will never come close to > reaching that limit. In fish fighting, however, > having the most powerful axis of the blank in play &
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I spoke to Jerry Siem a few years ago about > building on the spine: > "Build on the spine if possible - if not build on > straightest axis. The lower two sections not > important. The top 2 sections - especially the > tip section - most important to spine - if > possible". &g
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The dead lift article is nearly irrelevant to me if the question is building on or opposite spine as I use both when casting and back casting. The issue is when the straight axis is not at 180 or 0 degrees but 45 or 90 degrees to the spine. An un-lined rod being straight is how I would see it in a store. On a river or the water, it would be weighted by a line and sagging in a direction. Unweighte
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‘Morning all. I just received a 9wt Sage Salt HD blank for a build. Does anyone have advice on how to remove the silk screened logo on the blank? They are never in the right place and often off axis to the spine I want to use (not that it matters that much in a butt section) I recently did a Sage Mod and the black ink used in the logo came off with acetone in a wile or three. For a Sage X w
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Thanks everyone. I agree with a lot of the posters above about not liking the cork and EVA look, was curious to know benefits and detriments of the EVA vs the Composite cork terminal ring. It sounds like a trade off in weight between the EVA disc and a composite disc vs the look. In relation to composite cork, are their any brands or manufacturers who are better in terms of being able to wor
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All, any reason to terminate a 1.5” +/- butt on a saltwater fly rod with eva versus composite cork vs something else? Many thanks for any ideas, David
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For the running guides, I've used single foot CSFGs from Pac Bay, upsizing 1 step from mfg suggestion for snake gudies, with one or two larger ceramic strippers. Never had issues casting. Snake guides are easier to thread line or leader through if you go on the diagonal, but the single foot ones seem very good at line control. I recently built an 8'6' spinning rod on a St Croix blank wi
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Does anyone have an opinion of the 8 vs the 9wt LMX?
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herb canter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > All of a sudden David reads " It is the straight > up the best fly rod I have ever cast " and says to > himself , " I'm a patient guy i have no problem > waiting " lol . Ha Ha Ha Ha, that's killing me. You read my mind straight out on that one. I'm literally thinking, I'll pop
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Thats not encouraging....
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Hi all, does anyone have experience with the NFC fly rod blanks? I'm looking to build out a pair of bonefish/flats rods in 8 or 9 wt. I can't see any information on the differences between the Classic and the Gamma BetaLMX. Does anyone know if the "Classic" is like the Loomis IMX or GLX from back in the day? Many thanks, DDM
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