Ti-Forged is my go to line of guides. Pretty much any conceivable size or configuration is available. Also love the Pentalites.
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American Tackle also offers XSG and XBSG which are simple chromed word guides if they are similar to what you already have. I do agree with Spencer however on updating to something more modern. I wouldn't shy away from microwaves, they are quality guides and work great.
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Terry, Bushido Blanks are a line produced by American tackle company. Good stuff! I have used quite a few. I think it is a great balance between sensitivity and durability. They are light weight and tough for their rating.
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I use alot of Aero reel seats. Definitely one of the best spinning seats out there.
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Robert, I actively use both systems and it depends on my application. However more often then not when using a rapid choke "KR" setup I am substituting American Tackle TiForged guides over fuji. The overwhelming benefit to microwave guides is that they are a complete system. This allows me as a builder to implement them quickly and easily into a build that fits the application. I think
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Robert, I haven't used them on a fly rod yet myself but have several spiral wrapped casting rods with them. Personally I really like the aesthetics. I think the same as mentioned above as long as it fits the aesthetic your going for, it will certainly perform!
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Exciting stuff! I may have to consider competing this year. Looking forward to seeing all the works of art.
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Keith. Remove the jaws entirely from the Nova G3. Without any jaws attached it will tighten down to about .190" . Thats how I use my WEN lathe when using 1/4" mandrels. Properly supported the Nova G3 can clamp up to around .650" without Jaws. I don't own the spigot jaws as they cover similar sizes to the pin and bowl jaws I have. For clamping soft/finicky things like wine corks or
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I do as Joe mentioned quite often, I will use airwave stripper and first reduction guide then move into smaller guides for light rods. The airwaves are light for sure but not designed specifically for UL or very finesse applications. The running guides on a thin UL will look out of place, and require a decent size tip top. I like to use a 4mm tip top and sometimes as small as 3mm runners for sens
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You never told us if it was a boat, float, drift, > or plunking rod. The 4 power 9 1/2 and 11 ft. > blank are good bank rods and will work for kings. > If it's plunking, or boat use, not so much. I believe he is bank float fishing. He is wanting to use this to replace is centerpin gear for bigger
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I spoke with Karry Batson, the XST1324F was strongly recommended. I think I can talk him into an 11'. Anybody have any experience with this blank? It sounds like it should fit the bill.
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I have a customer looking to have a rod built as a spiral wrapped casting rod for king salmon. I had intended to use a North Fork Composites SA 1235-2 (IM) however I have not been able to make contact with them as of late and this is a relatively short timeline. Any suggestions for something similar to the NF blank ? 12-13ft 15-20lb line fast action.
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How timely Don. Next on my list is a Bushido MB73/8-15, G2 grip CCT aero and Titanium TiForged guides. Should be a good one!
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I don't want to derail the topic other than to say I see both sides of this discussion. I am a test engineer and daily I work with NIST traceable instrumentation (Nation Institute of Standards and Technology) which means the values measured by these devices can then be traced all the way to the original standard. Many of these standards have been converted from tangible objects to a fundamental c
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Carl if you end up needing any more specialized tooling that is MT1 in the future just drop me a line. I've spent alot of time tracking down decent MT1 parts as they are not very common.
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Grizzly H8038 - 5" 3-Jaw Wood Chuck - 1" x 8 TPI is a direct fit 3 jaw
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I also want it to be clear to both Trung and Tom. I am not in disagreement with Tom at all. Tom's advice is on point. I have a chuck similar to the Taig from grizzly I use on the same lathe for different reasons. If you were to take my advice though I would buy a mandrel saver over a new chuck. Drill stops or a mandrel with a shoulder should fix your primary issue. Personal from my years of ex
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The Nova 3 also allows through headstock work. I have squared up tip sections that had unevenly cut ferrules by drilling a wine cork in the lathe jaws then passing the rod section through the cork and tightening the jaws for a snug hold.
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Trung Diep Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Anyone know the model number for Nova G3 chuck? Do > I need to get an adapter for it? It appears your lathe has a 1" 8tpi spindle same as mine. Below is the model that is a direct fit. Bear in mind this is a wood working chuck with interchangeable Jaws. For mandrel work I don't install any jaws. It a
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I use a Nova G3 chuck on my lathe. I use home made .250 mandrels all the time steel/aluminum/wood without slippage using a live center. However I would recommend a mandrel saver, it prevents putting any pressure on the headstock and possibly puting too much pressure from the tailstock and bending your mandrel. Even if your mandrel did come loose, if using a mandrel saver in your tailstock it is s
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Also those weights are for Nanolite.
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I actually just weighed some last week lol here you go. I measured 5 of each without prepping any of the guide feet, so as received. Just decide by 5 for each guide. TiForged casting 4mm x5 0.81g TiForged spinning 4mm x5 0.71g TiForged spinning 3mm x5 0.46g Measured on a calibrated reloading scale with 0.001 gram resolution and +/- 0.005 accuracy. Rounded to nearest 0.005
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Looking at the guides again and cross sections I would say American tackle Nanolite has a cross section more similar to torzite than SiC. Meaning that Fuji SiC has a fairly circular cross section and torzite is more of a smooth elongated oval, Nanolite is similar to the torzite cross section. DURALITE has a cross section that is larger in diameter per ring size and circular, with atleast the larg
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Paul, I use alot of TiForged guides. You are correct in your thinking the difference in casting and spinning is the guide foot. Right or wrong I compare DURALITE to alconite and Nanolite to SiC. If you want photos of the TRC vs TRS guides let me know. I also have the AT catalog with all the dimensions if your interested in a photo of that. You can email me or I could post them here. I use them ju
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I have used the titanium minima guides and mostly happy with them. I have had a few with inconsistent stamping/forming quality, especially in the smaller match style guides. They have always been usable though, just not always as pretty or uniform.
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I have two rods with sections of cork that have wall thickness less than 0.100". Turned while glued on the rod.
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Chris, I haven't personally fished the 10/17 yet myself but I think it may suit you. I have a MB68/12-25 on my kayak, I originally expected it to be alot different but the tip is so progressive that it is very universal. I comfortably throw 1/4oz jigs on it, I definitely wouldn't throw a crank on the 12-25 as it has way to much power for standard/smallish trebles but I would expect the 10-17 to h
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Chris, a good 80% of my time spent fishing is from a kayak. My wife and I probably do 60-90 days a year. I used to think I wanted "that blank" for the kayak, but atleast for me a single blank is not ideal. Infact in my opinion all the advantages of multiple rods on a bass boat work the same in a kayak. I personally always have 4 rods with me. I also started with shorter rods but now I u
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Steven, I will try and answer your question as best I am able to. Guides are actually the reason I became a rod builder. I purchased at the time the "highest end" rod I owned to date and it was a nightmare. I would constantly have wind knots tangle around the stripping guide. . . Or a running guide. I mean if I cast this rod with anything more then a gentle toss I was having issues.
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I haven't been in rod building for many years like alot of you. However I would say the readily available carbon fiber grips, and grip making supplies and of course Microwaves.i started building rods and built every variety of spinning guide layout I was able to research. I built a couple rods with the same blank and different guides. From the first cast I was impressed with microwaves. Now the m
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