Michael, I hear you about missing the season. I had one done in the winter so that worked out good as I was ready for the season to start, but my other was in the spring as I had no choice. I don't know what was harder, having the surgery, doing the therapy, or sitting out the season until August! They all provided pain in their own ways. I see you are compensating your shoulder pain by using oth
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Russel, I've had both shoulders done with full joint replacements. Not at the same time but doing your therapy RELIGIOUSLY is the key to recovery. I was off work for three months each time but worked hard to get back. After that I am good as new and I now fish pain free and it is the most wonderful feeling in the world. Good Luck Stan
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Lance, I like the whiskey idea, maybe 2 before and 2 after. Seth, I've tried the toothpick before, may have to revisit that, thx Nuno, I've done the locking wraps with the Kt guides on casting rods, may have to do it on a spinning rod,
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Josh . I just ran into a similar situation but using a carbon fiber thread cover rather than the cork. When I tightened up the locking nut which carries the thread cover ( which you might be calling the foregrip), the threads on the seat pushed on the cover ring. I suspect the threads are what cracked your cork. Had I not posted here and got help, I would have mistakenly glued everything befo
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Mark I am using the KL-H guides. I really like those and the ideas to help me get the edge correctly done are just what I needed. Roger thanks for the link, I am ordering those today, and Lynn, I've used those for grilling but have not tried them for rod building........yet lol Thanks all!
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I like the block ideas. I've seen them before but haven't tried it yet, but I think that"s the ticket. Ray, the spatula is interesting too. I should be able to make this work and thx for the great ideas.
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Thx John That does seem to work better. The micro guides seem to give me the most trouble with not alot of room to work with behind the guide. Got a build going on now with them. Gotta just be more careful I guess. I try to do it with the rod rotating as slow as possible so I can steady my hand with the other. Might have to get something to rest my hand on while applying the epoxy while using
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When applying epoxy to my spinning guides I have trouble making a straight edge on the ring side to the blank. No problems with the foot side but when applying to the ring side and sealing the tunnel to prevent water entering, I cant seem to get a clean edge. I've tried small brushes, small model car paint dobbers with the foam tips. Running out of ideas. Should I tape the area behind the guide
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Jim Fantastic! I will call and place an order, Thank you for responding
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Is there somewhere you can buy Fuji apparel? The catalogue on the Anglers Resource site shows hats and shirts on the last pages but I called the number at the bottom and was informed they don't sell those. I like the looks and would like to purchase some things. Any suggestioins? Google not helping much.
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Roger Thank you for being so helpful. After rereading my original post I realized I should have been more detailed. I am using that seat along with the hidden thread hood cover and back stop lock nut which requires the CTC carbon thread cover. Assembling that with the base ring and cap ring, when I mount the reel and close the hood to lock it down, the threads are long enough that they meet th
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Thanks Roger, I figured a Dremel would do the trick. I did mount the intended reel on the seat and that confirmed to me that I needed to cut the threads. I was frankly surprised how much I needed to cut. Whats the old carpenters motto, measure twice and cut once, not the three stooges motto, I cut it again and its still too short! Should be OK. John I thought the tape was the way to go and th
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Newer builder. Just looking for tips from the pro's on cutting a reel seat. I am using a Fuji TVS TJK17 spinning seat with hidden thread sleeves and a carbon fiber insert. I need to cut the threads and the carbon fiber insert to make things fit. I suspect I can use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel on both. Just looking for opinions on it and should I tape these especially the CF insert to minimize t
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Herb we all make mistakes, I stopped counting, and we should all be willing to admit our mistakes and forgive others who make them. We are human although some have questioned me on that. :) Your posts are very helpful to all of us. On this thread alone you helped us all out with your post on the KR Concept and the link to the visual. I also noticed you on another thread today about epoxy and thre
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Herb Its OK, no apologies necessary but I appreciate the understanding. I also went back and read the post again to see if I violated some protocol or something lol. I don't know the history of Bob since I am new on this forum but I want You to know that you, Norm and many others that I have yet to recognize by just a name on here are so helpful to us new to the craft. I am on other forums too, a
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Herb, not sure what that means or what relevance it has if I am thanking people for sharing info. We are all on here sharing info to help everybody so I don't get your post.
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Wow, great information Norm and I appreciate the clear explanation. I bought the Mudhole KLH kit so maybe it is put together with the H B and T guides. Looking at it, that's the way it looks as the belly guides have the longer wider feet and the tips are smaller thinner and harder to work with ;). I use the micro guide bands on those which really make it easy for me to wrap them. I am trying t
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Interesting thread and something that I am trying to understand . I am building my first using the KLH guide set and the GPS software. I have some things to learn but one question in my mind is about using the different guides ex: KB KT and KLH together in the set. How do you know which ones to use and put them together. I've seen this before and it aroused my curiosity about why? I bought
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HaHa Winn Grips are in your destiny!
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My pleasure Robert
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Robert here is the link. Email and ask for the poster info info@anglersresource.net
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Anthony I see your point on the Brookies and Not having fished Trout for many years I concur on the sensitivity for that. As far as feeling bottom composition, I have yet to drag a football jig or weighted worm across rocks or gravel and not know it. It just has that unmistakable feel and blades or cranks and the vibration they produce, well....the same. One of the most distinct "feels"
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It might just be me but I don't get this whole "sensitivity" thing. I've never felt a Bass breathe on my bait but I've heard that you can. When I get some interest, I see the line jump, I feel the line jump, I feel the weight of the fish, I see the line moving. In short, I know when I have a strike and its time to jack-em. I guess there is a sensitivity factor, not disputing it but it j
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I got it figured out. I placed the seat at 10.5" from the rear of the blank and that still gave me roughly 2.5" of exposed blank which actually looks and feels pretty good, and is plenty. Lance, I do have the components with a shorter butt grip and will be using it on my next build which is a spinning rod. Michael, it is a casting rod, I forgot to
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Looking for some info on the Fuji Perfect fit handle. Not sure where to mount the reel seat. My dilemma is the butt grip is 4.24" long and the rear grip is 3.5". As I think I understand, the distance the reel seat is supposed to be from the rear of the blank is somewhere in the neighborhood of 10.25 to 10.5 inches. Using a 7' blank there is not much exposed blank left between the grips.
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Thanks for your reply Donald. I guess most of the blanks I use are a bit less than half, maybe I need to measure a little better, 9/16 does seem a bit large. About the cleaning, I was wondering about after applying the first coat of epoxy. I seem to see many little white specs of something and didn't want to use something that would affect the first coat. As some have suggested a brush, straw or
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First I just want to thank all the contributors to this site that help all the rod builders out there. I am relatively new at rod building and find the site to be of Immense help to all. 2 things I have questions about. Reaming a butt cap. I am aware that drills work well and using them backwards on cork or EVA seems the best thing. I am a hobby builder and don't have a shop, I ream with my reame
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