Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I mount the VSS seat down locking, with the no > thread hood facing forward toward the tip. I do > this because in the up locking position I find > that the hood loosens way too much for my liking. > I glue the seat in place, and after cured I then > screw on the hood. Done this way you will n
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jeremey, > I would just use a bit of gentle heat to scrape > off the glue residue. When you do this it will > likely remove some of the rod finish. If that is > the case, I would just do a continuous thread wrap > in the area to cover the scraped area. i.e. if > you are not needing a gri
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Made a rookie mistake installing my first Fuji vss seat, I installed the kit using the longer grip as my foregrip so the locking hood would be in the rear aka unlocking. I failed to wait for the glue to dry on the hood and the end of the cork cover the hood stuck to my blank. Was able to get it free but broke off 1/3 of the rear grip. That I plan on just cutting to make it look even but my issue
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Thanks Herb!
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Ok thanks guys. I’ll be going with a size 6 minima for the tip top. Doesn’t match the size 5 runners but I think it’ll do.
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Anyone ever use a fly rod tip top on a spinning setup? I’m rebuilding a 7’6 spinner and planning on using the pac bay minima m models to create a concept layout and also use pac bay fly rod guides for runners. I wanted to possibly use a fly rod tip if this will also decrease weight and to match with the color I chose for the guides. The pac bay minima tip tops I’m seeing only come in ring size 4
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Thanks very much for the input Herb I really appreciate it. I will be going with 10 maybe 11 guides total, including tip. Just have to order a few more now
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Herb, by “doesn’t look right” Im talking it comes out to being 9 running guides(11 guides total) with the kr concept..seems like a lot of guides to me. Still new to this so I’m going off the internet. How many guides did you end up with Herb, and did you use single or double foot? American tackle has the height charts of all the guides on their website.
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Also trying to figure out a guide layout. I’ve looked at the library article and also anglers resource gps but it’s not looking right. I’m using American tackle snagless double foot guides, rod is 9ft and a Daiwa bg 3500 20lb braid. Any suggestions?
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Ok thanks for the advice guys.
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No, I realize that Dennis. I guess I wasn’t clear enough on what I’m trying to do. I don’t want it flush with the whole bottom end of the rod. I just want to taper up to the female end a short amount. Almost like a stopper, so it’ll almost look like a decorative band and sort of conceal the connection point. I’m thinking it’s not a good idea though since you mentioned that Norm
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Just got a rod geeks 2 piece 9ft surf rod blank. I was wondering if anyone has advice on how to make the ferrule joint look flush? I was planning on doing a wrap on the male end up to where the female part stops but I’m not sure. I’m new to rod building and this is my first build from a new blank. Thank you for any help
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Thank you all for the input. I think I’m zeroing in on a rod geeks blank
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David Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What weight lures will you be casting? > > Anglers Workshop has their private label, a 9ft > 2-6 oz rated made in USA by Talon for $122. > > One of the Salmon blanks from North Fork > Composites may work great with plugs and other > treble hook lures and at 60% off with free > s
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herb canter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Forgot to add that many have made the mistake of > ordering a Rodgeeks or St. Croix blank , ( > Virtually same thing) in the MMF2 when they really > wanted the moderate action model which is the MM2 > designation and there is a HUGE difference in feel > and their inherent characteristics between
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herb canter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In the $100.00 price range Rodgeeks has two 9 foot > surf rods priced at $105.00 and i can tell you > from first hand experience they're as light as a > feather and cast into the next time zone. > > > > Yeah I’m thinking of going with one of the Rodgeeks blanks. Any idea what the
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Hello, I’m young and new to rod building and looking for suggestions on where to purchase a surf rod blank. Looking for something in the 9ft range give or take. Will be using it for casting plugs and metal in the surf of southeast Florida. Nothing too heavy. Budget is about $100 give or take. Any input is much appreciated, thank you.
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Matthew Paul Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > some have been making ramps from epoxy putty and > forming it right on the blank and smoothing it > down to suit and then coating with finish no gaps > no fuss no muss That sounds great. Can it be epoxy putty from a hardware store? Thank you for the input
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Yeah I have started some thread wraps where the gaps are but wasn’t sure if that would be the right thing to do. Thanks for the input roger
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Yes the guides are on the blank. I will try to upload the pics. Thanks for your reply
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Almost finished with my first rebuild on an 8ft surf rod. I’m wondering if anyone has ever made epoxy ramps onto heat shrink tubing. I have a section where I used 2 different sizes of tubing and there is a very small gap. Also a section where the rod butt cap meets the tubing and at the front grip where the tubing didn’t shrink as much as I hoped it would. I would post some pics but I can’t figur
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