David Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > James Green can make them as light as a 1 wt in > fiberglass. Mechanically fiberglass is a better > material for light line fly rods but ones under 3 > weight is just not popular due to it being a very > small niche. Dave - I've seen a lot of references to James Green blanks but haven't found a
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > All the Lamiglas 3s I've messed with CC'd as mid > to high 2s. The 6 piece 6 1/2 ft. 3, CC'd as a low > 2. Spencer - Thanks for the lead on the Lamiglas. I ordered their 4 wt glass blank yesterday. 4 wt is my go-to size fly rod for most everything I fish for in the warm water lakes and trout up in the
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Matthew Paul Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > nks/6-foot-3-piece-12-weight-fiberglass-blank-melo > n/ Thanks a million fella's! Really appreciate the feedback. I'm going to order the Angler's Roost 6' 1/2 weight. Gene
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Anyone know if fiberglass fly rod blanks in 2 weight are available anywhere? I saw plenty of 3 weights around but nothing under that. I don't know if there's a mechanical/engineering reason for that or if I'm just not looking in the right place. As of now I plan to order a 3 weight but if I could find a 2 weight I'd be more inclined to go with that.
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Thanks Rob - got it! I like it. I can see how that would work well.
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Jay Dubay Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A firm rubber O-ring between the nut and seat > works well to keep the nut tight as well also, Any > Big Box hardware store will have them. Jay - I saw a couple of seats advertised with a rubber o-ring to prevent slippage like you're saying but I can't picture how it goes. So is the ring in front of the n
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Thanks Tom and Phil - appreciate the info. Phil since you never had a problem with them on the lighter rods, and the two I have for my next two builds have wood inserts, I'll be ok with the single locking nut. Tom I can see how it could matter with an aluminum insert. I think if I wanted an all aluminum seat, like with a saltwater rod, I'd only consider two locking nut seats.
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For my next fly rod build I'm putting together a 1 wt ultra-lite setup, TFO Finesse blank. I have a UL8 reel seat that should work ok but it only has one locking nut, as does the current 2 wt Mudhole kit I'm working on now. I kinda prefer two nuts if I can get an appropriate size reel seat with them. My factory rods have them, even my 3 wt Cabela's model. I've never had a reel come loose before w
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I'm still working on my first rod, a 2 wt fly rod, so take anything I say with a grain of salt. I was thinking about using underwraps for the 2 wt rod I'm working on which obviously isn't a heavy-duty rod for big fish. I read about underwraps in Advanced Custom Rod Building and I like the idea of them acting a little as a liner between the blank and guide feet. While the 2 wt is an ultralight rod
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Thanks for all the info. One last question, for those who use exotic wood in their grips with the cork. Since any hardwood pieces would be much harder than the cork, how do you keep from over-sanding the cork part? I'm guessing you just have to pay extra-close attention to the sections with the hardwood rings.
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Ok gotcha. I figured it was something along those lines. Thanks for the replies Gents - much appreciated.
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I'm preparing to build and turn my first cork ring grip on my mini lathe. I've read on here and elsewhere about building grips and it seems like most builders favor various epoxies and Titebond. Is there any harm in using regular Elmer's Carpenter Wood Glue? I used to use it a lot for furniture making and it works extremely well in that capacity but I'm curious why I don't read more about it bein
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