Chaos rods, Juno bait and tackle, TNR tackle, custom rod and reel, biscayne rods
Forum: rodboard

Check out the United composites raptor and United composites challenger platinum c70hp or c70hp xh. Great USA made blanks. I suggest these blanks as they provide tremendous backbone while still maintaining a nice tip section. Many blanks out there are powerful, but they don’t provide the action and feel of the named UC blanks.
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Decided to place an order for a couple blanks. Even though they get terrible press online, let’s see how it plays out. Ordered a silverback 765 for an all purpose spinning rod around south Florida, and a sw765 for yellowtail snapper fishing. Hoping for the best, don’t let me down NFC lol
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Does this apply to the silverback line as well? Didn’t get any discounts when adding to the cart.
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Is hypalon shaped the same way as EVA? I remember reading somewhere that it doesn’t take to sanding like EVA does.
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Hard to say without knowing the blank and reel used. On the conventional rod, the amount of guidest and sizes needed will depend on the reel used and the action of the blank. For instance, fast action blanks tend to need more guides towards upper portion of the rod, while blanks with a parabolic bend might need a taller stripper guide to keep the line off the fore grip while under load. Only way
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Spencer, they make an ok spinning rod. I have a 731 and 732 I use for similar purposes as the OP, but they seem to be tip heavy, even with single foot runners. With that said, they cast well have some great pulling power. I also have a 736 I use for snapper fishing (conventional set up), and it is absolutely perfect for that type of fishing. To the OP, don’t be afraid to use a double foot str
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A couple years back I bought 24inch Eva from Biscayne rods in Miami. Might be worth it to give them a call. Also, try Juno bait and tackle. One of the main reasons you see such long rear grips is a lot those rods have butt extensions installed to lengthen them. Many times after the rod is already built. With that said, you may not like a 20 plus inch rear grip on a 8 foot rod.
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The amount of orders they get must be crazy. While you’re calling and waiting to see if something is in stock, someone else is probably ordering the same item. Also, as soon as it leaves the building and is in the hands of the courier, not much you can do. They have always been great to me on issues I’ve had over the years.
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I’d suggest Fuji MN guides over the turbos. They are lower profile, and will make the final product feel lighter in hand. I’d start with a 20 and end with10s. On a side note, I just took advantage of the recent get bit outdoors sale and picked up a couple sets of titanium alps XN guides to try out. They would be a nice match up for that blank as well.
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The silverback series looks interesting for bottom fishing, but not much info out there about them. All the bad press about their customer service has kept me from ordering any. I’ve been using the United composites stuff and have zero complaints.
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Gimbal is nice as it helps keep your setup from bouncing all over the place in the rod holder when the boat is underway.
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I actually started building rods because majority of factory rods had too short of a butt for bottom fishing. I personally build all my bottom set ups with 15 inch rear grips. I also prefer a rubber gimbal over the aluminum. Aluminum looks nicer, but it will bruise you up pretty bad unless you are wearing a belt of some sort. I like 10-12 inch fore grips, sharks and amberjacks are inevitable, and
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I am a big fan of starting with a kw stripper then dropping down to kls and kt runners. For instance kw 30-kL 20-kL12- kt runners of your choice. Another option I like is to use double foot reduction guides to single foot runners. It’s a combination of durability and weight savings.
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Lol never mind
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Not sure why it bleeped it out, this forum has a strange layout compared to others, but the wealth of information on here is unmatched. I was trying to type diamond two by voodoo rods. Let’s see if that doesn’t get blocked.
Forum: rodboard

The 25 to 12 is a pretty steep angle, I’d throw in a 20 after the 25, then 12 to 8 runners. Make sure to test cast before wrapping them up.
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I personally mix prokote original with d2. Prokote lays down beautifully, but cures a bit soft. The addition of d2 really hardens it up, and speeds up drying time. Play around with different mixes and see what you like.
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Had a couple issues with back ordered items and no response to emails. Called and got everything worked out. Sometimes it’s best to just pick up the phone.
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The combo of rotating by hand and a thicker finish solved my issue. Looks like I’ll stick to the d 2 on heavier builds and the prokote for the lighter stuff.
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The ridges are only visible over the guide feet, purely cosmetic, but annoying lol. Just did a last coat with some D2 which is thicker than the prokote, so far so good. Either way, it will be fished hard and any imperfections will be covered with salt spray and scales. Will also spend more time finishing up some guides with size D thread to see if it is the thread size or something else.
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Is there a way to post pictures on here? I took a couple pictures and would like to post. The rod has an under wrap, one layer of finish, then wrapped guides on with size D thread with 3 coats of regular prokote. I’m applying the finish under power, then using a heat gun to help release bubbles. The rest of the wrap looks fine, main issue is over the guide feet. The pictures will be able to s
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What’s up gentleman, I am having a new issue with the thread ridges showing up around the top portion of the guide after numerous coats of finish (prokote). I recently switched to size D thread for my offshore stuff so I didn’t have to grind the guide feet down for size A. When I’m applying finish everything looks great, come back a couple hours later and the damn ridges are showing again. It’s l
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I use a few wraps of masking tape then add small zip ties to anchor them in place.
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I built a similar set up for jigging AJs with fuji mn 40-25-16-12's to the tip. I wouldn't use anything smaller than 10s for the running guides. The leaders are generally pretty long when jigging and the knots are pretty bulky when tying to 80lb. I'd try 30-20-16-12-10s to the tip and tie on your leader and see how it feels through the guides. Also play around with rear grip length. I prefer
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I recently wrapped myself up a SW76MXF-MHX for a similar purpose. I fish a 8000 shimano spheros on there, and its been great so far. Nice tip with good pulling power. If looking to fish a bigger reel, step up in power though. Nice all around blanks for our fishery down here (miami/keys area). The other blanks mentioned would be great for the yellowtail/mangroves on the reef. If you get into th
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I too thought it was a fingerprint at first, but it’s not. After searching amine blush, it seems to be just that. Also seems like a few others have had a similar issue. Mornings have been some what cool and quite humid here in south Florida. Will see if some sun light helps clear it up.
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I just switched over to trying a new finish (Diamond 2), and liked everything about the finish except I got a couple white milky spots on a couple guides. Almost looks like moisture is in the wrap, but I just don't see how thats possible as it has never even been outside. Possible contamination? Is this a common occurrence with different finishes? Just wanted to see if this is common, and wha
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Thank you guys, will give it a shot. Let’s hope I don’t jack it up too much lol.
Forum: rodboard

Whats up guys, just wondering what the best grit sand paper would be to knock the edge off a pre made cork grip. most of the info out there is about shaping custom grips, but im just looking to round the sharp corners up some so it will match up nicely with the butt cap. I am not sure how aggressive I need to get with the sand paper, don't want to take off too much material. Any help would be app
Forum: rodboard