I guess Cork. Although I've made so many changes I can hardly count them all.
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Robert, that's exactly what I do. I like those dishes too. You get 25, stored in a nice little box, for a few bucks. Well worth the money as far as I'm concerned. They're thicker than foil. Maybe equivalent to 3 layers of foil.These are what I used for the finish comparison I posted a couple of weeks ago.
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Thanks Tom!! I'll do that and report back. Tom
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Tom, thank you! But, that didn't answer my question. When we buy pigments from, say CRB for marbling, they come as a liquid but all colors mix something wet with their powders to achieve it. What is the carrier that CRB uses, or that US Composites uses, to develop the liquid we pour into our epoxy? So, for marbling, we can add powder or we can add CRB's epoxy colorant. I would think the powder wo
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Hi Guys and Gals, Do any of you Guys know what the carriers are in the wet colors we can buy from most epoxy shops to color our epoxies? Is it acrylic or alcohol or a combination? Is it the same as acrylic mixing mediums offered by Golden or Liquitex? It smells like acrylic paints. And what of the Gel mediums or heavy bodied acrylic mediums, if added with our finish epoxies, what will it do to
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To just clarify; I use a cup to mix, then I pour it into an aluminum dish. I thought you were supposed to mix in one container then pour it onto/into something that's flat aluminum that allows it to spread out and remain cool?
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That's true Tom...thanks!
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Hey you guys, hope you're all doing great and haven't come in contact with the Corona Virus!! I've been kind of on a search for a better epoxy finish and epoxy glue mixing cup. I just bought a set of four Silicone, 1 ounce, reusable, mixing cups. They have no markings at all on the inside. In fact, they are shiny smooth. On the outside there is only a 1/2oz marker and a 1oz marker so they're k
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Nice work Ed!! I'm sure it came out really nice. Yes, those Fenwicks are nice and they are reasonable for the quality. Of course, it's not a custom build so they would be losing out on the handmade qualities you bring to the project!
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Hey Mike, For me, it is best when the tip tops are somewhat loose. Can't always get it though. This is a bit uncomfortable but, I heat up the Glue Stick I use (I buy the high heat, high adhesive sticks from SureBonder) and while fairly hot I touch my index finger on the end and roll off a round small piece of the glue stick (small enough to fit inside the tip top) and I slide it inside the ti
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I use almost all of these suggestions. But, more than anything...my fingernail. And then, when you get down to the very edges, that don't cooperate, I prefer not to use a razor blade. Though they are quite easy on unfinished blanks. They work but I get easier results with Xylene. Now, for the past X years it's now known how bad this stuff is for us so mechanical means might be more appealing.
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Okay, as a final to this thread, it's now 4 days of cure time. Again, I've kept my finishing room of my shop at 72.5-72.9 degrees. It's actually 104 hours after application here are the results; Hardest to Softest; ThreadMaster High Build - Hard but flexible - it is quite hard though Flex Coat High Build - Hard but Flexible - it too is quite hard U-40 LS Supreme - I'd rate it at roughly 7
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Eddie, I think what you're looking for is a Fuji part. It's for making foregrips. If you were to order a Frosted color, size 16 the part number is KDPS16ASH. This is from Anglers Workshop. You can also buy it in size 17 as well but that would make things more difficult for you. Since you're going to have it submerged the seat in cork there is no point in spending extra for another color. They lis
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Very interesting David. First question do you do any elaborate butt wraps or any long stretches of finish over any substrate? The idea of stopping rotation allowing to sag then removing the excess is something I've never thought of doing...but I like the idea. I may give that a try. You're the first one to reply that uses LS Supreme, so that's good. I'm glad you've found a way to work with your c
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John, I'll bet everyone here does the same thing! (or at least they should, right?) At least I do. I think of it as a requirement. Still another excellent point for anyone looking for information on "how we do it" (to steal a line from most of Flex Coat videos!!) Thanks John!
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Wow Roger, I'll call you, okay? I'd like to know what you would need for them first. What an offer! Thank you very much. It might not be today though.
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Ben, I'm disappointed you deleted your post. I felt it was very good. The idea here is that everyone does things differently, including you, and all are equally valid. I appreciate all of your input. I'm serious. John, I've also watched every single video in your library. Seriously, I have. I like them all. I don't know who does most of them but I just love the guy! I have wished to own your c
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Man you guys, thank you! I just love reading about how you do things. Even after all these years I have this insatiable interest in improving what I'm doing. If not for speed, then most importantly for quality. Every step matters and it's really great to read your descriptions of how you operate. It's just really cool. Before I pick out some interesting highlights of what you're writing about,
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Not listening...I didn't fuss with it at all. I did heat all of them with a heat gun, first in the foil plate to see how they released bubbles. They were all similar and with just a few seconds all bubbles were gone in all samples. But, boy did they ever respond differently on the rod. I did not use it but a few second. I set my heat gun at the lowest air speed. I did so just to induce leveling.
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A; The steps I identified, much are just cleaning (gees), they are the steps anyone who does any kind of work has to do in order to do the work. Doesn't matter if it's office work, construction work or building rods. Except that some jobs require a significant planning phase. It's not complicated at all. B: I'm not looking for sympathy...my lord! C: When I did this test I didn't mix anything in
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con·vo·lut·ed 1.(especially of an argument, story, or sentence) extremely complex and difficult to follow. "its convoluted narrative encompasses all manner of digressions" Really? Too complicated, huh? Okay.
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Good Morning Guys and Girls! I guess I'm going to start a food fight. Once again I've been struggling with my finishes. I was just so frustrated and just genuinely puzzled. Either my skills have diminished over the decades, which I'm sure they have, or things have really changed. Let me start by detailing how I performed my finishing routine for the first 3 decades I built custom rods. Up unti
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Absolutely Mark. I've had this Fiesheye Eliminator sitting in my shop for a couple of years and never used it. It will also come in handy if I have issues spraying my composite rear grips. I do know that when Silicone turns up in one's shop it seems to spread out and shows up in odd and unexpected places. Having the Fisheye Eliminator on hand means I'll be able to solve these problems right here
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It's in the "Special Edition * Tools, Fixtures & Shops" CD. I think that is a special edition magazine as well and the self centering cork boring jig is right on the cover. It's Special Edition #3.
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Thanks Tom, that's pretty much what I did with my brush. I keep those round plastic brush covers that come with my brushes so I slide that over it and keep it in a ziplock. Do you know what the brush cleaner is made of? I can't identify it by smell but I think it's a mix of a couple of different chemicals. I'll consider that on my syringes. I typically fill them with cleaner, squirt it all ba
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Okay, as I prepared to apply a second coat (actually third) I cleaned the entire Rod with something like Windex Mixed up enough LS Supreme and I added a tiny amount of Upol Fisheye eliminator (same as Smoothie). I dipped the small pointed end of my spatula in the solution about half way and let it run off and what was left on the tip of the spatula went into the LS Supreme. So, a very small am
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Now I have another question; What am I supposed to clean my syringes out with if not for Acetone, Lacquer Thinner or Denatured Alcohol? And if it's okay, then how will that not potentially contaminate the finish? And what about cleaning of Sable brushes? Instructions say to use U-40 Brush Cleaner (which I have), Lacquer Thinner or Denatured Alcohol. Some of the reasoning above doesn't make sense
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Yes Phil, you're right. I did mention much of that earlier though. Thanks!
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Oh Tom, one other thing, I'm just trying to learn whatever quirks LS Supreme has compared to what I'm used to, that's all. I'm not prepared to abandon a calculated decision I've made. I bought a lot of it (I bought 72 ounces of it). I just need to learn how it works and how it's different, that's all. There is no doubt it is different. And, yes, I had to add more to get it to settle down, I just
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Okay Tom, I get that. I accept that okay? But, I believe I have possibly several problems here. A; the "fisheyes" do look like fisheyes I've seen in other finishes. There are probably 3-4 guides affected by this. B: That the finish is pulling away from edge areas is a real issue. Numerous edges in fact, 5 of them. C: If it's due to Solvent remnant then why is it not more wide spread?
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