I asked the same question of guide glue compared to tip top glue. FC told me there is a difference. As to the point of having glue under the foot to protect the blank - sounds good but doesn't that weaken the bond? After all, one of the first instructions of all epoxies to make sure the surfaces are clean and dry. Finally, for you glue users, do you tweak the guides to line them up after
Forum: rodboard

I asked the same question of guide glue compared to tip top glue. FC told me there is a difference. As to the point of having glue under the foot to protect the blank - sounds good but doesn't that weaken the bond? After all, one of the first instructions of all epoxies to make sure the surfaces are clean and dry. Finally, for you glue users, do you tweak the guides to line them up after
Forum: rodboard

Actually I agree that a colored thread wrap looks better than a transparent epoxied threadless (Bug Bond) showing the feet. However, I was thinking one coat of the Bug Bond and then going over it with CRB's epoxy pigment mixed in finishing epoxy to make it black. By the way I think Loon Outdoor Fly Wraps has a comparable UV glue similar to Bug Bond. And they sell the UV light. Both available
Forum: rodboard

So I’m in Bass Pro Shop yesterday and noticed a St Croux spinner with threadless guides. $250 they want for that rod by the way. I go home and Google ‘ Threadless rod guides’ and get a hit on this: Is it time for me to dump my rod thread stocks? :-)
Forum: rodboard

Thanks guys! I’ll try your suggestions next build. -R
Forum: rodboard

Hi: I'm kind of new to this rod building stuff; only been doing it for about a year - off and on. I seem to always have a problem filling that little space at the end of the guide foot on the ring side with finish. I think that's referred to as the "tunnel". Either I'll put too much down causing a big bulge of epoxy to dry and/or sometimes with the smaller concept guides, causing
Forum: rodboard

Jim, not to belabor the topic much longer but if I am reading this article correctly it suggests using two methods. First use 27x to find the choke, then use table top to fine the reduction guides. I think what you are saying to me is don't use 27x and expect to get same results as GPS. Another words use GPS, ONLY; nothing more. Or use 27x for the choke and then table edge for the reduct
Forum: rodboard

Actually if anything the reel may be too small. The Penn Conflict starts with a 1000 on up to 4000 (and maybe higher). They added a 2500 between 2000 and 3000 which is what I'm using. I think the upsweep on all of them is the same anyway. What I found interesting (frustrating) is that the Fuji GPS site has two tabs for calculating the choke. One is the actual GPS program and the other is the
Forum: rodboard

I think I got it. Just that don't recall seeing a rod with less than 3 run guides. From now on Ill ignore that and simply place the choke where its calculated to go and let the chips fall as they may (or shall I say running guides fall as they may). Thanks for clarifying. - r
Forum: rodboard

Hi: Question re: choke guide location. I have a 6'-9" mhx blank with a Penn Conflict reel. The dia of the reel spool at the lip is 46.5mm. Mulyiply x 27 = 1255.5mm. Convert to inches gives 49.4" - call it 49". If I mark the blank at that location from the front of the spool (spool cranked 1/2 way out) it only leaves me with room for about 2 running guides including the chok
Forum: rodboard